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About jeffp

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    Reno Nevada

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  1. looks like a ford exhaust turbine housing stage III.
  2. interesting, I really never had a spool problem, or a cam problem, well except the time I compromised on the cam because the builder/cam guy thought he knew best, turns out he was wrong, ended costing me more money to do it correctly the second time, but in the end I have to say @ 3100 RPM @ full boost of 22psi was almost unmanageable, but you know water cooler talk is just that. Have fun with it take copious notes each build and one day you will get just what you want. open your wallet though, needless to say you will need more then .500 lift to start.
  3. seems you are getting boost late. A good setup will give you 22-25psi of boost @ 3K if done right. keep working on it.
  4. been there done that! I contacted scat enterprises a few years back and they were not willing to do a one off crankshaft. But if you get anywhere with them, expect to pay in the range of 3K to have them do a crankshaft. I did know one person that had one done and it turned out perfect, all the bells and whistles. So go for it. NOTE: don't google scat, you will be very surprised what you come up with, disgusting webpage LOL. google SCAT ENTERPRISES.
  5. Looks good to me. You will really notice the difference in the car handeling with the solid inserts. One thing: You mentioned the torque on the pinion nut after you changed the flange. 1) NEVER USE LOCKTITE on the flange nut. The nut is already staked to fit the pinion gear threads tightly. NOTE: the use of locktite will give you irronious torque readings. The reason being is that as you use the socket/ impact driver. the locktite heats up with the friction of the nut to bolt threads and sets up. 2) never just utilize the torque settings listen in the manual, they are correct, b
  6. my experience with this was almost as bad as your experience, except I drove 100miles and was buying dyno time at JWT in San Diego. Sure enough, the gear spun on a pull much like yours. So the solution is this: 1) make Damn sure the pump is not binding the shaft. Use ONLY a Nissan pump gasket. 2) remove the dist shaft, and reclock the position of the drive to the distributor. Be percise, as 1/2 a tooth off will make the distributor adjustment afterwords a little screwey. If you are as fortunate as I was, the timing on the distributor was not quite enough for the slots o
  7. Tony is correct, many many dollars spent on the dyno. I have used them all, super-flo dyno-paks mustange dyno-jet above floor and in floor setups. The dyno is a cool thing to utilize to get a good idea of what your engine/car is doing. I also believe the best dyno for engines is an engine stand dyno. I never have gotten a good tune and then was ready for the street, there were ALWAYS lean spots in the RPM range. The car really needs to be on the move to tune it the best, but the dyno is a great place to start. Then with a few data logs, you can finish up the car tuning, but engines on the
  8. I ran -6 line (5/16) for quite a long time in my car. I did start to have delivery issues when I pushed the engine to about 550hp. Then I started to see some trouble. The biggest thing is to get injectors sized correctly. Pushing the fuel pressure up to 4 BAR is really a tough thing to do. Most of the pumps out there just will not provide good pressure with boost added to the mx. So unless you are running some high hp numbers (well realitivity high LOL)then keep what you have. I can tell you, there are very few shops, or people who will do a good line for you. Myself, I just went to 1
  9. I wouls like a set for my car. Currently I have installed the special products adjusters, but they are limited on their operation, and I have never been happy with them. Ine thing I would like to get some clarification on is , when the kit is installed, how do the half shafts look with the car on the ground. Do the shafts promote the squatting actio the ZX cars like to do, or have you taken the angle out of the shaft for the lowered cars so that it will not squat like a stock car does. I would really like to fet this part if it will fix some of the zx problems.
  10. You know, sometimes it is better not to listen to all of the internet talk. This has been a topic of discussion time and time again. The Schnider cams are not a good buy, due to the metal and how it was hardened. Nitrating a cam is fine, but did you have the hardness tested after the procedure? For your information. when you harden two contact pieces of metal, generally speaking, one piece of metal is hardened to say 45Rc the second piece of metal hardened to 50Rc. ALWAYS and forever and a day, when you make two contact parts hard, you make the (WEAR PART) 5Rc softer then the other part, if NO
  11. theyare different, but that is not to say you cant make it work. If I were in you place, Iwould just do the 60mm TB upgrade. Arizona zcar has the adapter for about 45 USD and you can source the TB easily enough. Good upgrade, and that should be all you will ever need, well unless you want to run more then 600hp.
  12. In my opinion, you are wasting you time efforts and money. You want a quicker throttle response, get a 11 Lb flywheel and you will be happy. That modification is is strictly for race, on a N/A engine. Also, you just may want to talk to BHK for a damper. The ATI component is expensive, and I am not all the convenienced they located the harmonic frequency of the L28 engine. Myexperience with ATI is that they really could not be bothered with the L engine seriously. Also, at the time I was speaking to them, they had no solution for bely pullies for the damper and the L engine. I contacted B
  13. Looking at your dyno graph, my recommendation is to start by degreeing the cam with a degree wheel and get the cam timing corrected. the peeky torque is caused by the cam timing. The number one thing the zcar community, not all, NEVER does! you have the cam timing worng and you get those kind of results. So start there, and the Z31 ECU will do everything you want it to do.
  14. Ok well, you did not say what the application is, but the specifications that you stated are more cam then you need. 62 degrees overlap will give you a soggy bottem end, and you should start making power in the 3-3500 rpm range. The lobe center is WAY off! you need to look at a 110-112 lobe center for the results you are looking for. Also the .480 lift could be a little higher say in the .500-.550 range. This is a street car right? so what is better suited to your application is a short duration and high lift not the long duration short lift for the best results.
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