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Posts posted by Boog
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I did examine plugs. They were wet, after a day of cranking and not starting. I bought drop resistors to eliminate all PWM values. I followed a writeup on hybridz, and they stated eat injector should get a 6 ohm 25 watt resistor. I could only get 5 and 8 ohm resistors, in 25 watt. Which would I be better off with?
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Alright, I don't have a stuck injector. I tested them each with a 9v battery, they all fire fine. I do have fuel pressure, I have a gauge. It is holding pressure, so there is definitely not a stuck injector. I'm beginning to think my problem lies in my PWM. Is 2% duty cycle reasonable for cranking? It seems low for me. I am considering going back to dropping resistors honestly......
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Well my timing is direct on with what MS says, as verified with the timing gun. Phil at DIYautotune suggested that my injectors might have been fried and stuck open, hence the 10:1 AFR when cranking even with injectors completely unplugged.
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Cranking
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ok my afr is 10:1 with my injectors unplugged. Am i flooded?
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The engine is cranking with spark, and not running. I realized it is pulling a 10:1 AFR while cranking, so right now im working on bringing that down a bit. My plugs might have been fouled from trying too much while that rich.
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Here is the log file
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=76878259697179821769
and here is the config file
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=58247145802309928482
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Hey guys, recently finished wiring up my megasquirt. It doesn't run. I am struggling to find the source of the error. For some reason I am not permitted to load up my log files or config files.....if someone could tell me how that would be awesome.
My setup is as follows:
I have the direct coil control mod installed directly from DIYautotune.
The coil has power, and the negative side is connected to MS.
Two sets of injectors, 3 and 3. They are each wired to a bank on the harness.
IAT on the J pipe, welded bung.
MAP sensor hose is not cracked or kinked, attached at manifold.
I have tested power at all locations, I have spark.
AEM wideband with analog output wired to MS, calibrated appropriately and reading correctly.
Temp sensor is wired correctly and reading correctly.
Distributor is wired with a step up resistor, and wired according to the posted configuration. (Power, ground, signal with setup)
If there is any other information I can provide, please let me know. I have a 1976 280z, running stock block, head, and everything except for a 83 dizzy, j pipe, turbo setup, etc.
Thanks in advance!
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Duh! Thank you SRRTz, i appreciate it.
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Hey guys,
I'm megasquirting my N/A to turbo setup, and I forgot to pull the base of the dizzy with the unit.......All I need is the mounting base, that goes between the dizzy and the block. I don't know if all 280zx bases will work, or if the turbo one is different, but if someone could chime in on that I would appreciate it.
Thanks in advance!
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Perfect, thanks for the responses guys!
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Hey guys, I have a 1976 280z with a turbo swap, and I'm installing megasquirt 2 3.57. I got new injector pigtails and decided to build the injector harness from scratch. I wired cyl 1,3,5 and 2,4,6 togryher , because I know these engines run batch fired and figured that wouldn't hurt. I want to run resistors for these injectors, and I failed to think of that before assembling the harness. Does anyone have input on what resistor configuration to use to run this? Do I need to rip it apart? Thanks in advance.
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Hey zentech, I tried sending you a message but it says you can't receive any more messages for some reason. Inbox must be full. As I was going to say in the message, I found my rubber grommet piece but I still need the chrome. Let me know if you need any more information, or what you would like to do as far as pricing goes. Thanks!
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I am in the process of locking the dizzy as I type. Thanks for the timing reference, I'll start there and adjust accordingly.
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Hey everyone.....finished reassembling my car and the one thing I can't find in my garage is the hardware that goes with my antenna. It's the little rubber grommet, as well as the chrome piece, and whatever else goes on it. As of right now I have an antenna sticking up from a hole, so whatever you can remove from the outside is what I need. Let me know if you have it, we can arrange a price. If it matters, my antenna is an motorized one, and my car is a 1976. Thanks!
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Hi everyone,
I recently slapped a turbo on my recently rebuilt 76 280z. N42 block and head, stock electronics. I need suggestions on a couple of things. My plan is to convert to megasquirt this summer, but until then I just want something that will run fairly well until then. I have a wideband setup recently installed, stock turbo, turbo injectors, and a ported N42 head. I should be at about 8.3:1 compression. My questions are as follows:
1. Should I lock my mechanical advance completely, or only half way?
2. What should my FPR be set at?
3. What should my timing be set at?
I know a lot of this is dependent on my setup, and there is no correct answer, but I mainly just need to know where to start with it. I appreciate all input. -
+1 on the flat tops, that with a mild cam should get you where you want to be. What L28 do you have? If its N42, just swapping flat tops in will get you to near 10:1 CR, of not over. There is a online calculator for L series compression ratio.
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I just installed the ITM setup, was doing rings and figured I may as well do it while I was in there. Great quality on all parts.
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Thanks for the info. As for run time, I guess I meant I spent about a minute on each cylinder. I probably only got about 25 strokes in.
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Terrific. They are consistent top to bottom, and I am doing rings tomorrow. Thanks for the evaluation, haha.
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My gauge isn't great but its reading about 86.1-86.2mm? Before deglazing there was no noticeable cylinder wear.
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Here is where it is gone on my passenger side. If I am understanding you correctly, then yes it is the large washer and nut I am looking for.
Here is the driver side where it is still on.
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Hey guys,
Just crawled under my car today to see just a rod sticking through the right side tension rod rear mounting point....I really don't want to buy new tension rods, and I have a set of poly bushings laying around, I just need the compression plate and bolt. Send me a message or post here if you have one. Thanks!
Megasquirt not running
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Jester, IDK if you are busy today......but I noticed you are in the Seattle area and I could definitely use someone who has experience with the setup to look at this first hand.....I would SERIOUSLY appreciate it. Also, I am running the DIY wheel, and I believe I have the settings configured correctly for it.