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280Z-LS3

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280Z-LS3 last won the day on July 6

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About 280Z-LS3

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    Regular
  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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    Male
  • Location
    Templeton, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, bicycles and good beer

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  1. Thanks. I'll look at the videos and do a bit more internet searching for different techniques before I tackle the repair.
  2. My Datsun 280Z has a collapsed hood. While being stored in barn my daughters dwarf goats decided sleeping on the the roof was a good idea. Their weight was enough to collapse the roof. I can bang on the inside of the roof panel to pop it back up but there is a deformed ring where the metal bent during collapse. What's a few methods I can try to fix the damaged panel? See pic
  3. Yeah, his name is Andrew. He is unbelievably helpful and knowledgeable on LS swap stuff, asked him numerous questions and always happy to give solid advice. Checkout his posts on Ls1tech
  4. Finally completed cleaning up the chassis by removing undercoating, seam sealer, glue, etc. That was a long and crappy job! Thinking I am going to get the engine/trans mounted before tackling the seam welding and roll cage because of my idea for trans mount. I would like the trans to bolt to the Bad Dog frame rails with blind nuts, nuts welded to the inside of frame rails. I also removed the spare tire well and miscellaneous brackets in the engine bay that will not be of use. While trying to keep from going insane with undercoating removal I broke off to make a press brake for my cheap HF 20 ton press and some sub-frame connectors templates. The press brake is to bend up some 3"x5/16" steel bar for transmission mount. Transferred connector shapes to 12 gauge sheet metal and just need to be cut out and bent up. I am pretty certain these will clear the rear roll bar. As of now I don't plan on using a rear bar but though it would be nice to retain the use. Gathering some material for a DIY 4' sheet metal brake to form the connectors and maybe a custom center console and dash in the future.
  5. I have been looking into Tamco Paint who offer a compete line of painting products. Their epoxy and primers have rust inhibitors and also have "rust encapsulator" product called MonoCoat. Here is a YouTube video of product which I found very informative. Check out some of Tammy's other videos explaining other products Tamco offers. Have not used their coatings to date but decided use them exclusively on my current build from primers to clearcoat. FYI, they usually have a 30% sale at end of November from what I gather so it maybe good chance for anyone to experiment with Tamco products like me.
  6. My feeling with Iron Head's application needs is he could have used almost any product touted as "rust encapsulating" and be fine, it's a clean build! People read "can apply direct to rust" and think no prep is involved like removing as much rust as possible before application. Sounds like PO of rossman's car just slapped POR 15 over flaky rust thinking it would penetrate to solid metal, no bueno. For those interested I have been looking into paint products and seriously considering Tamco Paint for all coating needs this time around. Relevant to this conversation they have "Direct to Rust Primer" which I think would also work well to brush into seams and welds to treat rust.
  7. Sweet setup, don't think you will have cooling issues!!! I have been busy with chassis work and expect the fan/radiator purchase and install will be in a few months off. Can you post a link to the radiator you purchased? Thanks for posting.
  8. How much Rust Bullet would you say is needed for your job, 1/2 gallon? I'd like to experiment with this product and would like to purchase enough for the welded areas and exposed seam metal. The cowl area in my car has a fair amount of surface rust. My plan was to treat with phosphoric acid because there is no way to hand sand many areas. Doubt media blasting would work either since no "line of sight" to aim the blasting gun. Maybe using Rust Bullet on seams, joints and inaccessible areas in cowl is the way to go for this job also and forget about using the acid with it's neutralizing concerns. With the body on rotisserie and getting creative with application tools thinking I could get everything coated. Allow me to commiserate and empathize. At the moment I am choosing not to have the underside of shell blasted clean but may change my mind if things don't clean up as planned. At first scraping off the under coating was relatively easy because went for the low hanging fruit, flat floor pan areas and portions softened by oil and grease then onto areas where the undercoating was dried out and brittle. The wheel wells, OMG, it's like the Devil himself took a crap and just smeared it around, seems to take forever just to clean a few square inches because it's waxy and doesn't chip off. I've almost completed this horrible task and then will use mineral spirits to remove remaining residue. Actually looking forward to breaking out the MIG welder to stitch weld all the seams. Following your lead using dental picks to scrap out seam sealer from seams. I know it will not smoothly but anything must be better than scraping under coating.
  9. Intrigued by this product Rust Bullet since I am now seam welding and doing other chassis stiffening welding. From the product web site I could barely read the label but did make out it is an epoxy product. A few questions: Is is a two part epoxy? Does it have a thin viscosity to flow into joints? How is it different from say Tamco's epoxy primer which does not have a 24 hour minimum temp requirement? I assume it's ability to penetrate rust claim that makes it different. I have used SPI epoxy primer which needs 70+ degrees for 24 hours to fully cure/cross link and it's a super strong coating that can be brushed on which I have not ried yet. I would think most coatings can be brushed on as long as the product can be applied before it starts to set. Per Barry, the owner of SPI, his epoxy can cure quicker at higher temps, say if the work piece was placed in the sun to heat up after coating if ambient air temp was slightly below 70. For me this temp requirement was nerve wreck because I don't have a heated work space and temps here on the central coast of CA vary greatly in 24 hrs period year round.
  10. He makes the Super 8.8 swap kits, AKA Invincible Extremes.
  11. After researching what it takes to get my 75 280Z rear end up to task to handle LS3 torque I decided to go with the 8.8 swap. I wanted one of Will's kits that was made a few years ago and was hoping to get in on second production run, even bought a 2002 Explorer diff. Well, he went off to school, sold his Z and the second run never happened. A year to two later Vlad started his Super 8.8 swap kit thread and I became hooked. I purchased his u-weld kit then the diff (in that order lol) and in the process of installing now. Very happy with quality of parts and initial fitment. What sold me on Vlad's kit: 1) First and for most it has been proven in high HP cars. 2) Affordable and easily accessible parts. For example paid $500 for a diff with Torsen locker with 3.73 gears 3) 5x4.5" wheel bolt spacing broadens wheel choice possibilities 4) uses stock rear suspension geometry/lower control arm design There are 5 lug hub kits to convert the front to 5x4.5" all priced around $500 so matching front to rear is not hard.
  12. I suggest Bring A Trailer too. Don't know if there are any fees for sale so check. If so, then there are other auction sites also. Facebook Market Place and Craigslist will broaden your market but that opens you up to flakes, and low ballers. Keep your contact info limited to email to sort out the jerks.
  13. The clear coat looks really good in the pics. Did you figure out how to minimize runs?
  14. A little up date. I have many irons in the fire, kind of jumping around. Still cleaning up the under side of car to install frame connectors and spot weld sheet metal seams. This will be a long and tiresome job so maybe that's why I keep moving around, lol. Used a ball carbine bit to grind away the spot welds on trans mount tabs. Name your poison on this job, angle grinder with flying sparks and almost uncontrollable material removal or the carbide which produces millions of little sharp needles that get stuck in my hands no matter how careful to avoid. Decided I had to be different and commit to using a SD7 mini A/C compressor mounted at driver's head. No aftermarket company makes this arrangement except John's Cars but he utilizes an SD5 with F-Body belt spacing and I have Corvette spacing. So custom mount it is. Hoped that some generic mount plates would work but they don't have enough material to cover face of head for bolt holes. Made some plates and now just need to drill some holes, cut away excess material and maybe even add a few large holes to lighten plates. Will fabricate spacers to locate belt 99mm to 100mm from face of head, that's what I measured with OEM alt mounted and worn belt that came with engine. For the re-located Alt I went with a 2006 Cadillac CTS-V 140 amp and bracket that has Corvette spacing. The bolt on the lower left will be used to mount a smooth pulley to add belt wrap around crank and alt pulleys. Almost finished welding up the 8.8 cradle and knuckles. Going to test fit kit so I can weld poly mount tabs and also check fitment for fabricating the rear subframe connector to tie the Bad Dog frame rails to the rear cross member that lower a-arms attach. Doing this to avoid clearance issues which I don't expect but you never know... Oh, waiting on the Techno Toy Tuning arms too so will hold off till they arrive, this week hopefully, so I can mock up the entire rear while at it. Have not spec'd the brake calipers yet so leaving the Mustang tabs tacked in case I need to fab new ones.
  15. Ironhead, after you paint like 10 more cars you'll have all minor details/kinks worked out. LOL! I commend your efforts, looks great!
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