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280Z-LS3

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280Z-LS3 last won the day on July 6 2020

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About 280Z-LS3

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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    Male
  • Location
    Templeton, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, bicycles and good beer

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  1. 5cm would be too small I think. MiKelly used RetroSpec flares. He said they were 3.5" wide rear with 315 in his build thread so thinking I need at least that much clearance. The RS web page says their flares are 3.25" front and 3.75" rear so some conflicting info there too. The "InZanity" 240Z build used 315 on 11x18 rear as well but can't find what brand he used or where sourced. Getting good fitting flares in this size maybe a challenge. The search continues...
  2. Right, I saw that too. Just can't find any info the actual size of the "deluxe" type. And more confusion is that Jesse got back to me saying after contacting MG they offer 1" ZG flares. I detailed in email to Jesse wanting a large size for the 275 and 315 tire and that was the response. Lost in translation?
  3. Searching for good fitting ZG flares to fit 275 front and 315 rear tires. Currently looking into purchasing the wheels after mocking up the suspension up to appropriately size offset of 9.5" front and 11" rear wheels. Searching here and around the web reveals plenty of builds with these size tires but flare sizing and brand is not clearly mentioned. Retro Spec has a wide ZG set at 3.25" and 3.75" front and rear. However, many members caution dealing with Retro Spec as of lately. Margugen Shoukai are quality and the thickest "Special" model are recommended.
  4. What are the three sets of plates for, the ones located in the 3 o'clock position in the photo?
  5. Finished up the passenger side upper frame horn and T/C bucket support tubes.
  6. Sure, it's josephsulse@instagram.com I don't post much but really going to make an effort to be more involved. Heck, going to post something right now!
  7. That is very encouraging although a change from what I was told by AiM USA rep. a few months ago. Holley may have changed stance on release of Terminator Canbus... Will check again on my end
  8. Holley Terminator ECUs come with "startup" tunes but doubt they offer complete tunes. Further tuning after startup can be done via lap top while driving. However, the best possible tune would be achieved on a dyno I believe. The tuning software is free to download if interested in viewing functionality. I watched a few "How To" videos of the Holley tuning software and was sold on it's abilities. RacePak (owned by Holley?) has PDMs but have heard they are not as feature rich and don't carry as many amps as other brands including the new Aim.
  9. Availability for the AiM PDM is still unknown for USA market. Word is it should be out this month but have not checked to to see if this release date still valid. One issue that's putting me off is Holley will not release Terminator X Max CanBus software to AiM so the PDM screen is not compatible. I want to run the Terminator X Max on my LS3 swap. AiM has the Holley Dominator ECU CanBus but that means spending $1-2K more than the Terminator kit. Since I am going N/A that means spending more for the Dominator's rich functionality, which I will never use, just so I can run the P
  10. Bouncing around on different aspects of the build as usual. Completed mounting the dry sump oil tank so I can weld in the outer upper frame horn support tubes (did not want to work around these when making tank box). This a 7"x20" 2 gallon tank. A 2 gallon tank is the recommended minimum volume so was determined to make it fit and the only possible logical place is OEM battery location. The challenge was it's 20" height. Hood clearance necessitates the return line at bottom of the tank to sit below the frame rail. Luckily, the bottom of the tank is pretty darn close to level w
  11. Nice work on the motor mounts. Interested to see your Trans mount design to compare with my prototype. I too decided to make my own mounts because all the companies that offer LS swap mounts place the engine quiet far forward. Mine are puck style and till messing around with design. Currently they come off frame rails but may rethink design to come off cross member. When the DIY stainless steel header kit I ordered arrives will help answer any remaining questions on engine placement.
  12. Sorry, I skimmed over the part where you wrote 2" needed. Maybe a combination of something like Arizona Z Car Bump steering spacer can work or possibly using it in conjunction with Baer type spacer at rod end can work to get you 2".
  13. I have Baer bump steer kit on my 68 Mustang. When I purchased the kit from Street or Track the owner Shawn told me don't bother testing amount of shims just use them all. The total height of all shims is about 1". Don't know the amount of shim you need or if this info helps but plenty of people have been using the Baer bump steering kit over the years of various racing and street cars so it has proven the test of time.
  14. Feel you on the re-engineering of parts. Thought I had the engine placed right where "it should be" and now not so sure. A few specialty fittings for the oil pan return line will and a few more thoughts on allowing space for headers should get the issue sorted. As for priming oil systems on LS motors I've seen some videos of guys employing SBC oil pumps and oil 5 gal buckets. Basically, pressurizing the system by methods other than using starter to turn motor/oil pump. Excited to see your build move under it's own power!
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