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280Z-LS3

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280Z-LS3 last won the day on July 6

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About 280Z-LS3

  • Rank
    Regular
  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Templeton, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, bicycles and good beer

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  1. Don't think I am going to blast the body Richard. Other than the door and firewall there is minimal rust. That will save me some money I can put to other things. Next step is the Bad Dog frame connectors. While I'm prepping for the rails will poke around with the sander and screw driver just to make sure there are no hidden patches of rust.
  2. Did you make that t-56 cross member or purchase it?
  3. A small update. Finished the the boring tear down. Ziplock bagging all the parts, removing mastic sheet sound deadener and cleaning remaining mastic residue with Mineral spirits. The windshield seal became brittle over the years and needed to dug out with razor knife, not fun. The is body free of rust as I hoped except for the known areas, passenger door and passenger fire wall. Seems the car was exposed to a sprinkler or something in the passenger side for a time. My last build was a Mustang, see pic, and didn’t want to relive that experience so waited to find a body on good shape. I have a replacement passenger door which has some repaired collision damage. Going to strip the door, remove the collision bar so I can weld up drill holes used to pull the door skin and hammer it out to minimize bondo. Will remove the drivers door collision bar also. Installing a full cage so they would be redundant anyway. I toyed with the idea of using the spare door as a donor for the rusted area of the original door but the location And extent of the rust damage would make that job very complex. I can live with the bondo on the panel.
  4. That's a beautiful engine bay! I have a modest budget so need to "value engineer" a few things. I get what you are saying about sizing the system properly. The two fans I listed move massive amounts of air and are OEM durable. Just need to spec a quality radiator with 1" cores. Will post what I eventually get in my build thread.
  5. Yeah, the car is gutted now and making rotisserie mounts to connect to bumper brackets today. A HybridZ member sent over a link with chassis measurements to double check the chassis is square before welding in SFC.
  6. First thing I am doing to my 280Z is install the Bad Dog frame rails and have a question on how the car should be supported to limit chassis flex as I weld in the rails. Should I have the car supported by all four wheels or is it okay to have it supported from bumper mounts on a rotisserie? The car is rust free and in good shape with no apparent collision damage
  7. I will be using Tilton 72-607 pedal assembly, dual master cylinders (size to be determined) and 72-509 bias adjuster. I chose the Tilton pedals because modifying the stock pedal assembly with balance bar for dual master cylinders requires some work which I'd rather put into installing an aftermarket pedal system. Also, since I will running manual brakes Tilton has the option of 6.2:1 pedal ratio giving added leverage over the modified OEM pedal which gives just under 5:1. Putting off purchasing the calipers and rotors for now because plenty on the "build plate" right now. After I get the engine/trans, suspension and roll cage installed will get brakes and wheels.
  8. That's really a hard question to answer in absolute terms. From what I have learned 70/30 is a ball park with any car. There are variables such as tires, brake pads, track conditions, etc. that will necessitate altering brake bias. Use a brake calculator to size master cylinders to system then use a remote adjuster to dial in for certain conditions. This is assuming you are going with dual master cylinders. Below is link to Tilton's remote adjuster. https://tiltonracing.com/product/standard-remote-brake-bias-adjuster/
  9. Good advice everyone and leaning toward replacing body harness. Cary makes a convincing argument with good points on age of wiring, what OEM harness was designed to handle and, most convincingly, what as necessity will need to be replaced as I modify and swap engine, gauges, heating and A/C systems. There is not much left to replace after all that is taken into consideration. Even though my car was well taken care of and unmolested throughout it's life, having been carport or garage kept in San Diego area, the electrical connectors are brittle with corrosion present as Cary mentioned. This is concerning then add the specter of work hardened wire breaking in unknown locations is telling me to ditch the OEM harness. Also, my alt is a 140amp from a 2006 Caddy CTS-V so I will have some amps! Only question now is who makes the best quality harness that can be mounted in the passenger kick panel area? Someone mentioned the EZ and/or Painless are designed for American cars locating the fuse box in the driver's kick panel which makes a few wire runs too short for S30. Maybe an extra long option is available from EZ?
  10. Tearing down my 1975 280Z car to prep for my build. It's getting an LS3 and will most likely use Holley Terminator Max X wiring harness and ECU. The OEM harness is massive, a ton of wire branching out from the passenger kick panel, see pic. I have read some threads of guys with 240Z using EZ and Painless universal body harnesses with some success while others suggest staying ith the OEM body harness. In either case they will be integrated with what ever engine harness I end up using. My issue with the OEM, although it's in great shape, is it's a ton of wire, connector and brackets located in the general area where I'll need room for a roll cage. I hope to fit a small universal heat/defrost and A/C unit under the dash above the passenger foot well. Looking for some guidance from those that have tackled the 1975 and newer EFI 280Z cars. Does it matter what year, the applied principles being the same? Should I attempt to strip the OEM harness of what I don't need to get it to a manageable size or would it be easier to just get a universal harness? Stripping the harness seems a daunting task while converting over to a universal harness not that much easier if at all...
  11. Can anyone offer advice on using an aftermarket body wiring harness? My 76 280Z EFI has an incredible amount of wiring on the passenger kick panel that is going to make fitting roll cage, engine ecu, etc difficult if not impossible.
  12. Need the three piece plastic set that surround the tail lights and hold license plate. I believe the tail lights for 260Z and 280Z are the same so anything from a 1974 260Z thru 1978 280Z should work.
  13. Tear down begins. Engine/trans drained and pulled out. Fuel system and interior next.
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