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280Z-LS3 last won the day on July 6 2020

280Z-LS3 had the most liked content!

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About 280Z-LS3

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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    Templeton, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, bicycles and good beer

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  1. Honeycomb aluminum plate is your salvation! I have no idea where to get it (unobtainium?) and sure it's ungodly expensive. Read an article about a hill climb/time attack car that used it. Their real job was in aerospace and had a piece "sitting around". So stiff that a 200 lbs guy could stand on the splitter. Back to reality... I like the idea of home made sheet of fiberglass. Too increase stiffness one could mold in some 1/4 or slightly larger plastic tubing. Watched a Aussie old racer guy on YouTube who makes race car body panels (I spend way too much time on the internet
  2. Yes, absolutely right. Summer is the down season for Cali, I stand corrected! Here in SLO county it gets into the triple digits for weeks on end during summer. Without A/C it's brutal. I had the opportunity to drive a friend's right hand drive 1966 Ford GT40 in July a few years ago. Such a rare iconic Super Car couldn't pass the offer up. After 20 mins with outside temp of 105F had to call it quits hoping for an ice bath while pulling into the garage. As I pulled in literally soaked with sweat he asked me to take his nephew who couldn't drive a stick for a spin. Kids these
  3. While talking with Noah the other day I mentioned something about bolt sizing and strength in shear. I think it was for the 10mm bolts I used for my trans mount. He said there is a common misconception on how things are "held together" with fasteners. It's the friction created between the surfaces the fasteners are connecting which provides the vast majority of the apposing force in the shear plane. So I think the carefully shimmed play between the rod end and upright and having the through bolt torqued to spec for diameter will solve the chatter you are experiencing. "Finishe
  4. Look on my build thread for some good pics and discussion of trans in tunnel.
  5. Purchased a set of Jendoza flares and initial fitment looks good, hugs the body contour nicely. The over all width is 2" front and 3" rear when measuring the flare its self. Installed on car the added width over stock fender flare is approximately 1" front and 1.5" rear. Don't know if I would like using a larger flare, this size seems about right. What I have found, both front and rear, the limiting factor of positive offset of wheels is the coil over threaded spring seat interference. The front has 11.75" and rear has 11" from spring seat to Jendoza flare lip. Curious that
  6. Honestly, I had no input on new knuckle design as my mechanical engineering knowledge is like zero, lol. I had the 3T arms already so we decided to go with OEM pickup points for compatibility.
  7. Thanks Richard! Been busy with life which equates to not much time in garage. Talked Noah Dropkin into redesigning the 8.8 rear knuckle for the 8.8 swap for me. Noah's design accomplishes two things, sheds something like 5-7 lbs off current knuckle (substantial reduction in sprung weight) and eliminates the caliper mount bracket. The steel for the knuckles are currently being cut and will be welded up by a friend in his shop. Here are a few pics of Noah's Solid Works mock up generated with a 3D digital scan of the Essex AP rotor/hat and calipers. I don't plan on us
  8. I found post #13 in this thread informative. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1270915
  9. Maybe the DSUNO might work for you. The Ferodo graph for their pads start at 150C so it's anyone's guess how they perform at ambient temp for first few stops.
  10. When I purchased my kit Essex recommended the Ferodo DS2500 pad as good place to start while experimenting with pads for a street driven car. The DS2500 looks to be their lowest aggressive pad with an average 0.42 Mu over operating temp range. Hope to offer up an opinion on these pads in the coming months. https://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds2500/
  11. I think Ironhead's inline resonator design is not the limiting ride height factor. Recall it is the header collector??? Ironhead, what was used as the resonator? My thoughts are using a small race muffler which there are many to choose from.
  12. Thanks Ironhead. Ryan said about 4-5 weeks for the wheels. Jeeze, I hope it's not three times that long! Have him in a holding pattern as of now, which is not helping time wise, while waiting on fender flares. Went with Jendoza JDM style. They shipped yesterday so should be here soon.
  13. Are you happy with exhaust note? Mentioned before my past interest in the inline "resonators" design you used but due to fitment constraints on other projects was never able to give it a try.
  14. If I can keep the current pace of progress then I would like to have wheels sooner.
  15. Welded up the puck style engine mounts. Originally planned on welding engine mounts on cross member. However, I wanted the engine as far back as reasonably possible (block/belhousing mount face 1.5" off firewall) but this would have required the engine mounts to extend some 4-5" rearward of cross member. Was not comfortable with that much cantilever. Also, the volume of space such a mount would require is right where the dry sump pump lines will run from pan to pump. So the only other solution was to have the engine mounts come off frame rail. Installed height of engine was determined by
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