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turbo81racer

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Everything posted by turbo81racer

  1. I am in Dallas. I am lookling to buy a non runing 240z 260z or 280z. It does not need a motor or tranny. I just want to good straight car to start with that does not have alot of rust. Interior can be rough. Just want it to have a decent body, does not need to be painted.
  2. everyone has a different drff of project i guess. I am looking for a car thats mostly complete. bad motor or tranny is fine. just wanting the least rust, and straight body. the rest i can work with.
  3. i have looked. nothing right now is eye catching.
  4. I am just looking for a new Z project. I would prefer a 240z, but really any Z would be good. It does not have to run. Just want to have a straight body and I will work with the rest. I live in Dallas, tx
  5. I do have a Z thats forsale. I just listed it today in here. The title of the add is the 1981 280zxt with a LT1. I have some pics on there, let me know if you want any more info.
  6. What kinda track use? Just the straight line or some road aourse action too? Straight line, go with a 3.90 to 4.10 if you can, if you are going to do some solo racing that does not usually reach high speeds (well the ones here by Dallas don't) the higher rear gear would be better for the quickness. But a real road course it might be to high. I use the stock r200 from my turbo 280zx behind my LT1, though I use the 4L60e tranny too so I have overdrive. Its about a 3.60 i believe. Its ok on the drag as well as the solo course, but I drive it daily so i like to cruise ok on the highway too. I do have a r200 from an infinity with 4.10 in it that i have thought of using if I go more track with the car. It really just depends on what you are going to do with the car to what rear gear to use.
  7. I am not sure how much power mine is making, its got alot of miles, but its still smooth. I have the factory computer in it, have not had anything changed yet, I want to though as the factory speed limiter shuts the car down at a bit over 100mph, that gets annoying. If I keep it longer, I will put on some heads and get the gm hot cam along with pcm reprogram. That plus a little more tire. My 205/60/15s just and not that great. I am happy with the car for a daily driver that can do both drag and solo racing.
  8. Here is one of my projects. Well its my daily driver. I got it running in Jan of this year. Its nothing to wild, just the old LT1 from an 1994 cop car with the 4L60e tranny, the Impalla combo. I used the JTR kit with the headders, a painless wire harness and other fun stuff. I did all the work myself, bent the exhaust at work as well as tring to make the car look at stock from the outside as i can. So far with i don't know how many miles on the LT1, the car runs 8.8 at 78 in the 8th mile, and has been to an Scca race too, it ran well on the solo course. It still needs more work, as all projects do. I just used parts that i had around the shop, made a pulley for the p/s delete while still using the factory chevy tensioner. Up next, well is to sell this car to finish off my 72 240z sr20det car. http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm168/turbo81racer/IMG_2554.jpg http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm168/turbo81racer/IMG_2553.jpg http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm168/turbo81racer/lt11.jpg http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm168/turbo81racer/lt14.jpg http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm168/turbo81racer/lt15.jpg http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm168/turbo81racer/81int.jpg
  9. well the injectors get there power from the fuse block and are grounded through the PCM, i would check the power supply to them, or just try a jumper signal. They get 12v, so give them direct power from the battery and see if it will start that way. Just have to jumper one wire, it will feed to all the other injectors. But I would check out the power to everything, injectors and optispark. I have an extra new optispark if you need one to test with.
  10. well if you have it wired using the computer controling the stock relay and signal wire to the pump, that should work. I used the painless wire harness and had to redo mine using the stock relay and signal to the pump. Does your computer have the VATS? well the factory key from the GM had that signal in it to allow the car to start. Check and see if you have that or the VATS module that will bypass the signal. I had to use that from painless.
  11. I will get some pics up this weekend. I don't have a computer at home so I am not online much, but I will get some just to show the car and motor. I didn't do anything special with it, just tried to make the install and how I placed everything into the car easy to work on and access with it comes time to build some motor.
  12. i would check the fuel pump circuit, I did the same using the painless harness with the factory comp, and I used my own circuit for the fuel pump, not the one the computer controls. It did just what yours is doing. So what I did was to hook up a relay again to the factory comp like it wants, then used that signal to trigger the relay that I installed and it works great. I got mine going last Sat, and have been driving it to work every day since with no problems.
  13. What wiring harness did you use? I had that same issue with mine with the painless harness using the factory computer. I was not using the factory fuel pump signal or the fuel pump relay, but they had to be installed on the car to make it see the signal to fire the injectors as well as the spark. Mine did the same, cranked, but no start. I wired in the fuel pump relay in the harness and used that signal to fire the real fuel pump relay that I have located in the back and that did the trick. It started right up.
  14. I will get some pics on here soon, but thanks for the info I got from a few guys on here got my project going. Its my 1981 280zxt, with the LT1 from a 1994 Impalla SS along with the 4L60E tranny. I did all the work myself as it should be done. Used a wire harness from painless wiring, some parts from JTR, drive shaft from Drive shaft king in Dallas. Its still in progress, but I drive it daily now. Its been good to get behind the wheel again. I modified the stick Z auto shifter to work as well as the gauge cluster, so aside from the tach, you can't tell its got the LT1, well that and the sound.
  15. I have the power rack in my car. The JTR Headers clear the steering shaft pretty easy, as well as I am going to have lines made at a shop here thats the best I think for making custom lines, that will join the chevy p/s pump to the Z rack. It should make things nice as far as driving, and low speed stuff goes. I am not worried about the a/c. I really never use it, even living here in Texas. My daily driver go-cart (1990 CRX with b-18 swap) does not have a/c either. I will just take the t-tops off the Z and cruise, thats enough a/c for me. Right now I am getting the engine and engine bay ready, just a little cleaning and come paint, this week the motor should be in its new home and the wiring will begin.
  16. with the JTR kit I do not believe that the A/C would fit in the stock location. I am using an a/c delete pulley setup for that reason. I do not have the rest of the a/c.
  17. I did purchase the JTR mount kit as well as a few other things from them. I am using a wire harness from painless wiring as well. It all looks really good as far as the kit and parts go. I will work on something later that will move the alternator down lower, but for now I will just live with it up high.
  18. My Z has the rack and pinion so there should not be a problem there with the clearance issues. I also found on this site a guy that sells the kit to relocate the alternator down low and get rid of the a/c and ps pumps. That should work also as well as to help clean up the engine bay.
  19. I am new to the forum. I have an 81 280zxt that I am going to install an LT1 with the 700r4 tranny. Just curious if there were any major problems that someone that has done the swap before has run into, or if there is a member here that makes engine mounts for the kit. I will use the search here too and see what info I can come up with to help me along with my project. The prior motor in the car was the factory turbo, that I have done some mods to, like an intercooler, injectors, the usual stuff. Along with an old Haltec F7B that used to control 2 extra injectors that allowed me to run 17psi, that is until the old turbo died. I got a deal on a complete car with the LT1 and all the goodies, so I bought it and would like to go V8 this time. thanks for any help and wisdom.
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