madden87

i bought the car lowered so i don't know what springs are on it. They don't look cut, but the car does sit lower. It has iluminas all the way around. I sag real bad on my launch. I am pushing about 300 whp and I only use this car on the weekends or at the dragstrip. I am looking for some stiffer springs that will raise the ride height back up to almost stock. I don't like scraping on driveways. any suggestions? I have searched the forum, but did not find anything about stiffer stock springs except something about chevette springs. Not so easy to find out where i live. any help would be great

i probably have somewhere around 300hp, maybe. sbc 350 with dart heads and lunati voodoo 268 cam. I have 14 inch wheels with 205x50x14 nitto r1 tires. They are the drag radial tire. I run 12.3 at the track on these tires with a 1.7 60'. I need a better stall because i am not coming close to breaking them loose on the launch. i do leave them on the car while driving around town. they still break loose on the street if i mash it off the like, but if i light them up then launch on the street it is a whole new ball game. granted this is my weekend driver so tire life is not a concern for me. I have had them on about 8 months now and after 7-8 nights at the track and a lot of street burnouts i still have over 80% tread left. They say these tires work better at the launch with less tread so i say for the price you should get them. i purchased mine from discount tire for about $120 each just my $0.02

I know a "noisy or dirty" electrical system will cause problems for optical distributors, but will it have the same effect on hei's? I blew my module at the track a month ago so I replaced it will the accel performance module and the 48000 coil. this is on my hei distributor. i took it to the track once, and i shift at 5800 so that should not be a problem even for the hei so i am told. It worked fine. i drove it on the street for the first time since then over the weekend and i had problems starting the car. no spark. after letting it sit about 30 minutes it was fine. i am not so happy with the accel module right now. I will be upgrading the distributor in the next couple weeks, but wanted to know if the electrical system could be the problem, or just defective parts.

I live in arizona and it is time to smog my car next month. Just looking for some feedback on whether or not it will pass. I am allowed 400 hydrocarbons. I have a sbc 350 with a lunati voodoo 268 cam. it is not real aggresive but there is overlap. do you think I will be able to de-tune it to pass, or is it going to be a shade tree weekend of putting a stock cam back in so I can get another 2 year pass. I would love to hear from someone that was in the same situation to see what works.

I understand that torque is good, but I was under the impression that the z car is light enough that the torque factor is not as critical in an engine build as it would be if it was going into a 3500 car. I have been building my car to spin at about 6800-7200 rpm. I made this choice based on what I have read and seen on this forum. I don't see a lot of 383 stroker motors. I don't question the reason why people build them, but for my set up I will stick with a 355. Thanks for the info

I noticed that those rotating assemblys are for a stroker engine. I wanted to stay with a 355. I am already running out of gear before the end of the track because I have 23" tires and a cam that only goes to 6200rpm. I am replacing the tires with 26.2", but with nitrous I would like to be able to go a little higher than a 383 wants to. Am I correct in this reasoning?

Myfirst pass after the swap was a 13.8. That was on a stock motor with flat top $40 pistons. This motor was so tired that I was floating valves at 1000' and still ran that time. The best thing I changed on my car was the rear end. I went with 3.90 and a phantom grip for a locker. After a new set of heads, holley 750, voodoo cam, and a 3500 stall I ran a 12.3 consistantly last night. Would have been faster, but I have to back off the gas at about 1100' because I did not go with a cam with a higher rpm range. Anything is better than the original engine though. Good luck.

I will be building an engine in a few months. My friend has is helping me, but he is the type that is set in his ways. He is always right so it would be nice to hear a different view. I want an engine that will put me in the low to mid 11's on the motor, but still capable of handling NOS. I currently run 12.3 with a stock bottom end (flat top 4 relief pistons) and dart 200cc iron eagle heads. I have an extra 4 bolt main block to start the project with. I want to start picking up parts over the next month or so. What should I keep my eyes out for?

I will check the voltages. Thanks. As far as vapor lock goes it could happen, but I ran the fuel line on the outside of the frame rails and up the firewall away from the headers. Any ideas on a different way to route them possibly?

I have a summit 140gph fuel pump with a dead head regulator. I set the fuel pressure between 6-7 and it drops after driving for a while. Has anyone else had this problem? What do I need to do to fix it?

I went the cheap way and purchased the accel module and brute thunder coil. I think I paid about $100 for both. I ran a 12.5 before it started popping, a 12.8 20 minutes later, and a 12.3 after replacing the parts mentioned above. I think it was well worth $100. Since then I went from a 2400 stall that seemed worse than stock to a 3500. I will be at the track again this friday to see if I can hit a 12 flat. My previous times were with a 1.94 60' at best.

A friend of mine uses them. Not only has he not had any problems but when he shimmed it wrong on his 14:1 motor and messed it up they gave him a full warranty. I have one sitting on my shelf waiting for the next motor.

I have an HEI distributor and I think I messed it up. A couple weeks ago I went to the track and on my first pass I ran 12.5 with no problems. On my next pass I ran a 12.8 and it sounded like popcorn under my feet (exhaust was removed). I drove it home from the track and it was fine, but when I took it out to test it the next day I found out the problem only occurs at higher rpms. I have been told that the HEI's are not good above 6000 rpm. Is that true. my cam only pulls to 6200 so I don't go that high. Is it possible to upgrade the HEI or do I have to go with a different distributor?

I had tried different brake pads, but I did not notice any difference. I am thinking that the larger calipers require a different mastercylinder, but I don't want to waste the money before confirming that.

I can not hold my car from creeping forward when I am standing on the brakes and giving it gas. My set up is a sbc with a th350 tranny. I only use the car for drag racing. I installed the toyota 4x4 calipers in the front and since then the car will not hold. I use to be able to stand the brakes and light the rears up. Now I just move forward. I understand I changed my caliper volume with this upgrade, but I don't know how to increase my pressure in the front. I just want my front brakes to hold and if anything light the tires up since at the track I will have real sticky slicks on it so that should not be a problem. I am looking for any info to try. thanks.