RonK
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Posts posted by RonK
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"...Been thru a car wash a couple of times..."
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My mechanic asked me, too, if I had been thru a puddle? No, been thru a car was a couple of times... he didn't seem to think that would have caused the problem, so just changed the fluid. But, like I mentioned, I'm still getting some same symptoms ... will keep an eye on it and see how it does.
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been in any wet weather? a leak somewhere funneling water into the oil?
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1975 280z with 5spd manual (not sure which one at this point, came installed but not original with car purchased 4mos ago). Trans was serviced and 2-3wks later started being hard to put in first or reverse when hot. Took it in and the tranny fluid was full but a light milky grey. There was a light amount of metal on the plug...they didn't seem too alarmed about the metal, but seemed baffled about the light grey (as opposed to a med-dark grey which would have been more indicative of metal damage??) They changed it but starting to experience the same problem after less than a week. Ideas?
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Interesting ... Thank You!
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"Tank Fill Point" (where you put the gas in) ... Last week I filled my tank and noticed the smell of gas driving down the road. I'm at a stop light and I think the young lady rolling down her window wants to comment on how neat my car is.... Instead, she tells me I have gas leaking out of my gas cap area.
It took a while of repeatedly shutting down and letting the gas settle, starting it up only to still have it pumping gas up and out of the fill point.... finally got in and drove home a few miles hoping I wasn't going to blow up.
It stopped and hasn't happened again, but then I'm afraid to fill it up and have it repeat the problem, so I've been only putting 10gals in at a time.
Ideas?
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Long Story Short.... looks like the Temp Sensor (not "Switch", which btw only pertains to automatics which have dual pickup distributors and rely on the temp "Switch" to control the retarding and advancing of the distributor... My Z is a Manual, hence, the temp switch had nothing to do with my problem)...as I was saying, looks like I bumped the Temp Senor lead while changing my distributor wires.
Apparently, the senor "tested ok" but after fixing the lead the sensor then needed to be replaced. Car is running well but still working kinks out...such as I'm noticing that, after shutting off engine for awhile(to run into the store for 10-20mins)AND if the engine temp gauge is reading well toward the hot side(Before Starting),the engine is difficult to start...acts as if it is either flooded or can't get enough fuel initially and slowly ramps up to normal operation. After it has time to cool down, it has no significant problems starting.... Ideas??? And Don't Say "It's the Temp Sensor"!?! LOL ...Kidding
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Actually, flooding the engine is a symptom of a bad ECU. Some people have found that the solder connections to the circuit board were faulty and that tweaking the connector or even banging on the ECU would fix the problem. I had one go bad, flooding the engine, but didn't try the beating approach, I just swapped ECUs.
The one that went bad on me had no apparent cause. I was testing it to make sure it was good and it took me a mile down the road before crapping out. It would restart and drive for a short time but then die again with lots of gas smell. It had also been on a car that sat for ten years. These Zs seem to be a "use it or lose it" kind of car.
Only a bad alternator should "spike". A new one shouldn't cause problems.
Edit - your mechanic must be using a scope. If he compares events at the coil negative, or blue wire from coil negative, with the injectors, he should see a three to one ratio, three sparks to one injection, for a properly functioning system.
Thank You, NewZed ... Bad ECU - Makes Sense!
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Question... do you think that putting on a new alternator on this z that has been driven 200-400mi a year for the past 10yrs could have "spiked" the ECU, causing this malfunctioning of the injectors.
Note: mechanic was given by Identifix (a trouble shooting service they subscribe to) all the electrial specs to check regarding the fuel system and they apparently checked out correct.
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The injectors should only "pulse" once every three sparks. How do you know that yours are pulsing too fast?
My mechanic was comparing the pulse rate with a 6 cyl Jeep in his shop and noticed that the Z injectors were "lighting continuously"
Noting that the Fuel pressure is 30-35 (appropriate) and that when fuel line is clamped off, engine will run til existing gas is depleted. However, when fuel is allowed to be injected at the rate the injectors are pulsating, it floods the engine.
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75 280z manual
Fuel Injectors Pulsating Too Fast and Flooding Engine
Fuel pressure is 30-35 (appropriate)
When fuel line is clamped off, engine will run til existing gas is depleted. However, when fuel is allowed to be injected at the rate the injectors are pulsating, it floods the engine.
ECU?
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Any leads on where I can find a Water temperature switch for '75-'78 280z. I'm seeing a lot of interchange of the terms "water temperature switch" and "water temperature sensor". From what I'm seeing they're not the same. The FSM says "water temperature switch"
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RonK, I replied to your PM. As I said, he might looking at the vacuum advance switch, not the water temp sensor (WTS), since the WTS doesn't actually have wires, just pins. Easy to check at the ECU connector and worth doing. If the wires at the ECU don't give the right resistance for the temperature then you can look for problems between there and the sensor.
Thank You, NewZed, for your reply. For the benefit of others, here's a copy of my response to your reply
... "The part with the broken wires is the water temperature switch (threaded into the side of the engine right below the distributor with two wires "molded" (for lack of better word) into it...one going to a bullet connection going most likely to the harness and the other is a "ground"?..it is secured by a bolt by the thermostat?? Any way, one wire was connected and the other was just hanging there. I must have damaged it when I was taking off the distributor cap.Unfortunately, MSA does not have it. They have one for a 1974, but it does not work (different specs as far as temps go). Apparently, 1975-1978 will work, but I am having no success finding one thus far. My mechanic is going to try and repair the existing one by drilling next to the broken wire (which is broken flush at the top of the "molded" material that connects the two wires to the switch) and solder the wire back in."
Additionally, I will definitely check the other items, but the water temp switch is the most obvious problem (again, broken wire hanging there
). If you go to "The Z Store" (motorsports auto) and search "water temperature switch", one will come up for a 1974 260z. It is pretty much identical to my broken part, just it has its two wires coming out to a plug, where mine has one wire going to a bullet connection going most likely to the harness and the other is a "ground"?..it is secured by a bolt by the thermostat, right behind the distributor. -
Asked my mechanic to double check ... Guess what? The water temp switch has a broken wire
NewZed, you are Good!! Now, know where I can find one? Having difficult time finding one. -
Update.... my mechanic thought maybe the distributor may be bad ... We swaped w reman'd distributor and made no difference. He is now wondering if the timing has jumped. Going to pull the over and check it out :-\
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Maybe this clue means something. Is the water temperature sensor still connected correctly? The wires are in the vicinity of the distributor, maybe it got knocked loose. Everything might be fine except it's running super rich because the ECU thinks you're up in Canada in the winter time.
Question... if it thought it was cold wouldn't it just run faster but still run smooth?
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Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 and number 1 is between 7 and 8 o'clock on the cap. Wires are ordered counter-clockwise from there. That is the proper orientation. If your distributor is (was) not installed correctly the proper orientation may not work.
Unfortunately, I wish it were that simple .. The order and wire placement has been checked and re-checked. Lol, my mechanic friend thought it was going to be that simple and was wondering how I could be that inept (I think the word he used was "stupid"
), however, now after checking the timing, installing new plugs, re-installed the old cap and rotor, he's scratching his head -
Possibly a vacuum leak. Maybe your mechanic had to move a line and it either cracked or he forgot to put it back on?
Also what exactly do you mean runs like crap? bad idle, won't rev, will die under load etc?
Apologize for the generality "Crap". It's running like not all cylinders are firing and it's getting plenty of fuel (my mechanic says it keeps fouling the plugs from so much fuel)
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Just purchased a 1975 280z w 111k mi, driven 200-500mi a year past 10yrs. Drove it over 300-400mi w no problems. My mechanic(good friend of mine) checked it out for overall condition and determined alternator was putting out only 12amps (explains why battery is bad).
I replaced alternator with a Bosch unit he provided me, started and ran engine for couple of minutes to make it was all good...no problems
Replaced distributor cap, rotor & wires and now runs like crap (like timing is off or not firing on all cylinders). Checked and doubled checked wire order. Plugs are getting spark. Even tried putting old cap, rotor & wires back on but no difference. (btw, this is "transistor", not contact points ignition)
Rotated distributor as far to each direction allowable but no better, just slower when retarded and faster when advanced but still running like
My mechanic put the new plugs in to make sure that wasn't the problem but still running like crap and apparently continues to foul the plugs (hence, no lack of fuel). He tried working with the timing but no success. He checked the air gap on the one part (sorry, dont have manuel with me) located under the rotor. He's stumped at this point with limited amount of time he has been able to devote to it.
Wondering if the additional amps (50 vs 12) fried something? (Is it pretty obvious how much of a mechanical rookie I am yet?) here I thought I would have something simple to work on, if need be...Crap, first simple thing I do, like change the alternator, cap, rotor and wires, and now it's screwed up and off the road!
Signed, "Help The Rookie"
P.S., my mechanic is now thinking the distributor may be bad???
Apparently, the senor "tested ok" but after fixing the lead the sensor then needed to be replaced. 
). If you go to "The Z Store" (motorsports auto) and search "water temperature switch", one will come up for a 1974 260z. It is pretty much identical to my broken part, just it has its two wires coming out to a plug, where mine has one wire going to a bullet connection going most likely to the harness and the other is a "ground"?..it is secured by a bolt by the thermostat, right behind the distributor.
Transmission is Light Milkly Grey
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Seems to be shifting into 5th gear just fine