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ryant67

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Posts posted by ryant67

  1. No idea about any other brands, but I was running a Flowmaster muffler on my 3" exhaust and the 18" Vibrant really removed the awful drone I was getting at highway speeds - it also mellowed things out in general.  Still screamed when you got on it, but for normal driving it worked wonders.  Still have it in my system, but run a Magnaflow muffler now - conflicted about the Magnaflow, it does sound great and it's not as obnoxious as the Flowmaster, but it's a still a touch too loud at times.  

     

  2. Wow, great work with the wiring!  I wish I was aware of that Bussman block when I redid my wiring last summer.  I wound up with 2 separate boxes for relays and fuses - your solution is much tidier!

    Great work with the fans and shroud too, as you said, it looks like it was factory made, very professional work.  

  3. In theory it looks like a nice idea, but the accuracy doesn't cut it.  100 feet or so is way too much.  If some thief steals your Z, you want to be 100% sure you have tracked it to the right address - merely being in the right block isn't enough, since it being in 1 of 20 houses isn't going to help you, it will just get you in trouble with the authorities.

    I've seen DIY GPS trackers using cheap old phones with GPS capability, call as you go plans, and being hardwired into the battery in the car.  Not as cheap, but presumably accurate enough to lead you to your cars exact location.

    As these cars become more valuable, and as such more desirable to undesirables, this is something probably worth investing in.  We've all seen those pics of stripped Z's - I know if someone stole mine, I would very much want to be sure they got what was coming to them...

  4. Oh, so this was a SERIOUS thread?

     

    OMFG, I've taken myself not seriously enough again and tread on sensitivities.

     

    "Meh!"

     

     

    If I hadn't have been demoted and still had the ability to do so, I would have liked this post.

     

    Seriously, the internet is no place to ever take oneself too seriously.  We've all been there, in a grumpy mood and quick to take offense - but on the positive side, after a couple of seconds, no one will bother to remember it.  :P

  5. Would installing the leather onto a full dash cap perhaps be worth the additional expense?  Probably a bit more forgiving to work with, and reversible.  

    For what it's worth, I think the leather cover looks great on there!  I bet it was a lot of meticulous work to get it to sit right with all of the curves in these dashes, but it looks like you took your time and did a very good job with it.  Well done!

  6. F54 block and E31 head. According to the previous owner it's a 3.0L stroker, but again, no way to be sure without opening her up. He had a LOT of money into other parts of the engine and car, so I give benefit of the doubt. The choice of the K cam seems like an odd one though, unless it's a regrind...

     

    Seems to pull hard enough anyway, but these cars always do ;)

  7. Kenny,

    Tony might (and almost certainly will) know better, but I will throw my thoughts in here as well since I have spent quite a lot of time with these carbs over the past couple of years now.  

    Fuel should not be getting into the cooling body of your Mikuni.  What I suspect is happening here is that you have a damaged, or missing, gasket between the cooling body and the throttle pump assembly, and it is leaking fuel in.  

    There are two lines that run through the cooling body:
    1] feeds the throttle pump a supply of fuel
    2] runs from the throttle pump to the pump jets

    Both lines are independent of the cooling reservoir.  

    I attached a pic of the parts and circled the pump jet lines in yellow, and the inlets in red.  I suspect the gasket around these parts isn't doing its job, and fuel is leaking in.  If it's happening when you apply throttle, then it would very likely be the yellow circled ones.  

     

    post-29570-0-77243300-1421883564_thumb.jpg

  8. For what it's worth, I used to have a Recaro Pole Position in my 240Z, and it fit perfectly.  It was mounted on recaro rails, onto the stock seat supports.  I only took it out because it was too much of a hassle to use day to day - difficult to get in and out of, and horrendous to swivel in when going through McD's drive-thru :P  

    It was great for spirited driving though, very strong side support.  

     

    post-29570-0-69995400-1421614980_thumb.jpg

  9. Fair point, Tony.  In that diagram, measuring the fuel pressure post-regulator wouldn't be very useful, since it wouldn't in any way indicate what's happening before the regulator, which is where the carbs are getting their fuel, haha!  

    Moving the pressure gauge to immediately before the fuel pressure regulator, perhaps using an AN fitting to plumb to it, would actually allow you to see what your fuel pressure to the carbs is.  

    Would this set up require a specific style of regulator, such as a bypass regulator?  I am running the Holley 12-803 right now, before the carbs, but I can't seem to grasp how it would work post carbs, since it would be static.  
     

  10. Great work, it's progressing nicely, wow!  

    The clear coat really makes the CF pop.  

    Thought on the clamshell - does carbon fiber not conduct electricity?  There are a lot of live wires in the combo switch, and the clamshell fits pretty closely to it if I recall correctly.  I'd probably give some thought to insulating that portion of it on the inside, as a "just-in-case" measure.  

  11. That's pretty much what I am planning to do this Spring with my 240Z.  

    I currently have the 'usual' dead head fuel line set up with a regulator before the triple Mikunis, with the fuel line stopped at the 3rd carb, no return.  My Holley fuel pump makes one hell of a racket in this setup, and apparently it won't last terribly long in a dead head setup due to overheating with a lack of fuel flow through it for cooling.  

    The regulator in that set up is after the carbs in the fuel flow direction, and it basically bleeds off excess fuel pressure into a return line to the tank.  This is ideal, as it should provide a more stable fuel pressure into the carbs.  The pressure gauge will plug into an unused output port on the regulator, allowing you to confirm you have your fuel pressure set at the correct level.  

  12. Wasn't this on Ebay about a month ago?

    It was, I recall seeing it before.  Reserve wasn't met, at around $25k-ish I think.  

     

    Sharp car, not much to dislike, it's clean looking and the interior has been left mostly stock, which is always a plus.  Hood vents aren't my style, but hey, he tried something a little different there.  Rad support being missing is interesting...  Dislike what looks like a DIY front grill - although I also dislike the JDM one that looks like that as well.  Some pics of the underside of the car would be nice.  

     

    Biggest problem with that ad is the line "JUST TO MUXH TO WRITE UP THIS IS SHOW QUALITY BIG $$$$$$$$$$ MONEY INVESTED "

    If you want top dollar for your BIG $$$$$$$$ MONEY INVESTED car, you should NOT be too lazy to at least list some of the modifications on the car, especially when it's on ebay.  Saying new suspension and upgraded brakes doesn't tell the buyer much at all, especially when you lace those modifications with exaggerated superlatives.

     

    Sorry for the little rant, just a personal pet peeve and I remember the headaches of dealing with listings like this when I was looking to buy my Z a few years back...

  13. Since this thread has been bumped, it's also interesting to note that back in 2011 the exchange rate was $1 USD = 76 yen.  3 1/2 years later and we are now at $1 USD = 116 yen.  So basically, if you ever wanted any of those expensive and exotic Japanese S30 parts, now would be a pretty good time to buy!  

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