ryant67

It'll be difficult to find any specific info for duration, as Don Potter was pretty secretive about that stuff I believe. His camshafts are generally regarded as some of the best, and his engines won a lot of races. Great find! Lift is easy to measure: (Lobe height - lobe width) * 1.5 = cam lift If you have a camshaft grinder in your area, they might have a "cam doctor" machine, which can measure duration and such.

That really sucks about the brakes not fitting. I guess the obvious route to go would be T3 - since they used to sell Watanabe wheels, they should be able to let you know what will fit. It'll be worth it all in the end for those wheels!

Excruciating attention to detail would be my guess. Everything perfectly balanced, precise clearances, removal of sources of parasitic loss, and the willingness/ability to push the engine above the RPM levels of a street build. I would imagine that ITS racers have engines with lifespans measured in hours, and they get treated with a much higher level of maintenance, as well as regular rebuilds. As such they can be pushed much harder and survive. It would be interesting to get an experienced answer.

Cheers Leon! Still need to get around to that, and I also have the new camshaft to swap in. Just been holding off on it. Hopefully by the end of this summer. Thanks! Yeah, I'm running a dual electric pusher fan at the front. The Griffin radiator I have is pretty thick, so space by the engine side is limited. Low profile fans don't seem to move much air unless you drop big money. No issues with cooling though, ever, so it's all good! Thanks! Yeah, the L can really be a beautiful looking engine under the hood. It's a fair bit more work to get high NA horsepower out of it though. It's all about goals I guess, I'm not trying to win races, just enjoy a cool old classic car and the odd track day for fun.

For the most, yeah. The headlight buckets are still ever so slightly off, but the car is a driver, so I'm not going to sweat it too hard. The roof was fixed last October and the shop doing the work matched the paint for it and the rear quarters perfectly. Since I took the bumper and trim all off myself, they did a little extra work without charging me, so the rear arches were fixed up and repainted as well as the exhaust cut out. Pretty happy overall! Hoping to make it on out for Zfest this year - just need the weather to cooperate. Excited to see your car in person, Grannyknot!

You won't find anyone running those on a S30 as they aren't produced in a compatible bolt pattern or offset. Pity, as I do like them, they are lightweight, and the price is very reasonable.

Well, I suppose I should probably update this as it's been awhile. Nothing too huge going on though, just some cosmetic fine tuning in the engine bay. - Replaced all the hardware with fresh yellow zinc plated - New plated water pump pulley, and block off plates. - Made a throttle cable bracket for the Mikunis and eliminated the j-arm that went to the firewall bracket. - Made a new heatshield for the carbs. Bit of a frankenstein's monster, but it seems to work. 2 sheet of aluminium, some Nimbus GII (waffle) between them, and reflective gold tape in the underside. It now mounts onto the front of the carbs via a custom bracket. Pain in the A to remove, but less visually intrusive and it made room for the throttle cable bracket. - Painted the strut bracing brackets matte black. - Removed blue anodising from some AN fittings. - New Magnecor KV85 ignition leads. It was fun buying the universal kit and being able to route them however I wanted. - Red wrinkle powder coated the valve cover. Reckon that's about it for the under the hood now. Very happy with how everything looks! Threw in a few shots of the car too, just for fun ,:)

You could also grab one of these float level gauges. I did, and it works very well! http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/58

Two sites I know of sell them direct from Japan: OER Direct http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/ and RHD Japan https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_fairlady-z_s30-l28-09-1975-07-1978/model/nissan_fairlady-z/car/nissan/category/turbo-and-na-systems_throttle-bodies-or-intake-plenums-or-surge-tanks-and-parts

Out of curiosity, what jets do SK carbs use? Are they proprietary and ordered from OER, or do they use Weber DCOE jets?

Really depends on condition and how much they have been shaved. If unshaven and the water jackets all look to be in good condition, then $400-ish isn't unreasonable. 108mm is the stock height, head gasket mating surface to valve cover mating surface. Any idea who did the porting on the one? Throw up some pics!

Thanks for being so upfront with the information sharing! It's interesting that the XDi supports hall sensors, as I was under the impression that only the XDi2 and XDi200 did. I've toyed with upgrading my XDi for just that reason, as the hall seems like a much more solid solution - zero chance of signal interference, and it's very difficult to avoid the spark plug wires, alternator and starter with our engine bay layout. Do you recall the serial number it was to check to see if you're below? I'm pretty sure mine will be too old as it's the same design as yours is... Have you considered upgrading to the newer XDi200 at all? It has onboard datalogging with lots of input channels, which would certainly be really useful for backroad carb tuning I would think. Some of the little extras like shift light control and the 3 programmable rev limiters might be useful as well. More money though, and the basic functionality is unchanged. Hope you get big numbers and lots of useful data on Friday, good luck!!

The car looks absolutely perfect, so well executed. Congrats!!!

I've got a few people I follow on instagram who are running Watanabe r-types in 15x8 et0. Whether the wheels are F or R-type shouldn't make a differences, since the same specs for width and offset will have the same fitment, so I'd definitely go with the R-types if I were you. Here you go: https://www.instagram.com/sennavsprost/ https://www.instagram.com/nerdy_s30/ https://www.instagram.com/huntershayes/ For what it's worth, regarding fitment, I run Volk TE37V's in 15x8 et0 with 225/50r15 Toyo R888R's and had to roll the rear arch due to rub - my 240Z is lowered about 2 inches.

The SPA GT mirrors are quite similar, albeit a slightly different shape. http://www.spatechnique.com/store/itemDetail.cfm?prodID=700&catID=7 That car you posted being Japanese, I would suspect they are probably custom made for Rocky by "Craft Square". https://www.craftsquare.co.jp/top.html

@theczechone The Isky cam I mentioned earlier in the discussion would be a good alternative. Less duration, so it keeps the powerband lower, but more lift. If you haven't already, I'd maybe give Isky a call after 2:30pm PST and speak with Ron Iskenderian. Really knowledge and helpful guy.

Here is a pic of the 75s I saw on a Japanese build blog awhile back. Quite the profile.

Going by your engine specs, I reckon it's definitely a good call to switch to 34's. You should certainly lose the stumble in doing so, and gain a little more driveability on the street. The jetting looks about right. I've been ordering jetting from Upgrade Motoring out of California. They have a good website that you can shop online through.

You can only remove the outer venturis through the front of the carb, and yes, you will need to remove the inner venturis as well to do so. Chances are good that you will trash the inner venturi gaskets when removing, so I would go ahead and order 6 new ones - they are only a buck each, so no biggie. I would STRONGLY recommend removing the carbs from the intake manifold to do this work, as it will be close to impossible to install the inner venturi and gasket with them mounted. What does your engine build look like? Mostly stock, or? Any other question, feel free to ask. I've spent a lot of time with these carbs over the past few years and am very familiar with them at this point, happy to share any knowledge I can.

There hasn't been a whole lot to update on here this Summer. I've been driving the car very regularly and logged a few thousand miles without any issues - the car is running well and I'm having a blast! One small update is the new battery I am now running though. I somehow managed to win "viewers choice" in a local car show that was sponsored by Braille, and the prize was a B2317 battery. GOOD PRIZE!!! The thing is pretty tiny, weighs just 17lbs, and according to the sheet that came in the box it's rated for around 750CCA. I wasted no time throwing it in the car. I'm sure some folks will no doubt take exception to me cutting up a super-duper-mad-rare series 1 jack cover here, but trust me when I say that it was pretty beat up anyway. Either way, the install looks pretty tidy to me! The old AGM battery I had behind the seat weighed 45lbs and was large enough to limit how far the passenger seat could roll back on the seat rails. With the Braille, I have lost 28lbs, and it's small enough that the passenger seat can slide all the way back again. Quite pleased! I've also attached a couple more pics of the car, just because...

I'd get it flowed somewhere locally at 25 or 28 inches. If you have a stock head, get them to do that as well for a baseline. Then at least you can have numbers on a comparable scale to what others do. I'd expect the head to perform well though, fingers crossed for you!

It's always a treat reading updates on your build. Those are some strong numbers already, with room for even more power with some extra jetting tweaks. Good stuff! Tidy work on the exhaust line. I'm surprised you're only running what looks like an 18" long 5" round muffler - must really scream at WOT!! The strut bracing looks great too.

Bump, back in stock. The kits are slightly different to the ones pictured in the original post - for the air horns they use locking nuts instead of lock washers and nuts. Here are some pictures of what I have:

Those look really great and I bet they'll work very well, nicely done!

Rebello's numbers are crank.