ryant67
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Posts posted by ryant67
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Well, the car has been out of Winter storage for a few weeks now and I've managed a little work on it, so here is an update.
Decided to ditch the Mikuni intake manifold as I didn't like the bend it has in it, and there were some clearance issues with how it raised the carbs up higher in the engine bay. I picked up a Harada manifold for about $400.
harada by ryant67, on Flickr
The casting on the Harada is quite rough, and I didn't like the look of the intake runners as they were.haradarunner by ryant67, on Flickr
I cut a slot into a piece of 3/8 steel rod, folded some emery cloth into it, then set to work with the power drill.flapper by ryant67, on Flickr
A couple of hours of work later, and things were looking a little better.runner by ryant67, on Flickr
Off with the old manifold.IMG_20160507_161953 by ryant67, on Flickr
And on with the new one!bay3 by ryant67, on Flickr
Looks rather excellent, I think. The car seems to pull a little harder too, but that could just be my imagination. I did take a little extra care to make sure all of the ports lined up well though, and the new manifold runs a lot straighter and is about an inch longer.bay1 by ryant67, on Flickr
I also added a few little finishing touches to the engine bay while I was at it. Picked up a pair of fresh air ducts off ebay, which will be nice to have when driving on the highway, and added the little black caps to the strut towers.bay2 by ryant67, on Flickr
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Also, these guys might be worth a look if you lack access to a machine that can make these for you. I looked into using them for a gauge panel where the HVAC controls are, and the prices seemed very reasonable. http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/
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BHJ makes a damper that comes with a serpentine pulley:
http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=238
If you decide to go that route, I would buy it through Rebello as they charge considerably less for it. BHJ makes them, but prefers to sell through their dealers instead of direct to customer. The concerned I would have with going that route would be finding a water pump pulley as well. -
Reckon at Pauter's price point you are probably just as well to go with Carillo, no?
I have read mixed reports on CX Racing's rods, but as they are made in China and low budget, there could potentially be some issues with the quality of the metal they use.
Turbo260Z, any particular reason you are looking at aftermarket H-beam rods? The stock rods are forged, and with the right prep-work are good for all but the more extreme of builds - or so I have read on here countless times anyway. Pretty much all of the info you will need for prepping rods can be found in Honsowetz's book on modifying these engines.-
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Zclub, the British Z forum, would probably be your best bet for getting this answered. Quite a few folks on there use that manifold.
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Very nice!!
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Jenveys, nice!
Wish the exchange rate was better on the British pound - punches the price up a fair bit. I like the look of a lot of what Datsun Spirit does, but in the case of a kit like this, people would do well to cut out the middle man and build the kit themselves. There is a LOT of markup there on items that DS doesn't actually build.
Just checked and here is what I came up with:
Harada Manifold - $500
Jenvey ITB x3 - $1000
T3 air horns - $300
Jenvey fuel rail - $200
DS Heat shield - $150
TPS - $100
Total:
$2250
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Ah, gotcha! I'd be careful with that listing, as the pictures show a lot more than what is listed as included. You won't be getting the TPS, fuel rails, and perhaps not even the air horns. I would be sure to clarify exactly what you are paying for before ordering. $1700 for the 3 ITBs, intake, and linkage isn't bad though.
I could be wrong on this, but I am pretty sure that the OER ITBs use RX7 injectors. Those suckers are quite expensive, so something to watch out for...
If you have an intake manifold already OER also sells those ITBs individually for pretty low prices:
45 - 31,500 yen
47 - 44,100 yen
50 - 52,500 yen
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Not bad, but I reckon I'd go with this instead
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Looking at the pic, the ITB's will be fine once that black box is moved. I'd throw it where the battery tray is, and move the battery behind the passenger seat
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Don't loop, you will end up recirculating hot coolant back into the engine and encounter overheating issues. You should plug the lines instead. I have attached two pictures of the plugged lines, as I did on my engine. The plugs should be readily available at any auto parts store.
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Wow, that's going to look stunning once it all comes together!
Are you going to be able to resist the temptation to go crazy and start flocking the plastic trim around the rear parcel shelf now? -
I've sold two in the past few months, one for $760 and the other for $700. Both sold quickly and easily, although you can expect a lot of low ballers sending your messages.
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Excellent!! I've never worked with CF, but that seems like a pretty great result for a first pull at something as complicated and large as a dashboard.
PS: Look at that green grass, loving this winter so far!
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Glad to see an update, and here is hoping that third time's the charm!
Seems like a solid plan, with a few incremental improvements again over your previous build. Great to see some pics of your E31 head, and I bet you are super glad that your head and camshaft survived, as they would be very very difficult to replace at this point.
Curious that there was so much contact damage on your old pistons, surely that would have made a very obvious noise indicating that something was terribly wrong? But watching the video you posted, it isn't obvious... very harsh result. -
Looks awesome, can't wait to see how the dash turns out!
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Greddy has it up on their site for sale now, and I don't mind the look of it at all. $3600 is a little on the expensive side.
http://www.shopgreddy.com/17020400.html -
Wow, everything looks absolutely stunning, incredible work!!
Edited: asked a question before I really grasped what I was looking at, nevermind -
I pulled these suckers from my previous-owner-built 3.0 stroker motor. They appear to be Z22S pistons (87mm) with the dish shaved from them, which effectively makes them flat tops, albeit with some useless valve reliefs. Pin height looks to be around 33.5mm.
The engine ran L24 rods, LD28 crank, and and E31 head. Compression looks like it would have been around 10.5:1, and I never experienced any detonation, although the camshaft had .520 lift. With a P90 head, you would be about 9:1 compression with a stock head gasket.
Man, was that ever a fun engine, until I spun a bearing anyway...
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^ itsmillertime - pic isn't showing, maybe link it instead, or retry?
And now I will go ahead and spam a pic of my 240Z
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To further confuse matters, the series 1 console was also a little different from the series 2 console. Different ash tray location, different fuse box cover, and some other things.
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One of those fancy extra tough car wrap products would probably be a great idea. Just do the sides and replace it every year or so as needed. If you can build a car like that, paying a little extra to wrap parts of it shouldn't be much of a concern.
RyanT67's 240Z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
A few notes on the swap to the Harada manifold, as a FYI to anyone reading this and contemplating doing the same.
IMG_20160507_174040 by ryant67, on Flickr
I ran into a couple of minor headaches when fitting it:
1] There was a bolt in my thermostat housing that had clearance problems. I swapped it out for a 1/4" allen plug, easy fix.
2] The studs in my head for the intake manifold weren't long enough for the Harada. The Mikuni intake has something along the lines of a half inch flange, whereas the Harada is more like 3/4". I went to the hardware shop and grabbed some M8x1.25 40mm bolts and that did the trick.
3] The throttle rod that runs to the firewall was too long and made contact with the firewall. I shortened it to work, easy.
Other than that, it was all very straightforward. Quite like the linkage the Harada came with too, and the insulators and great!
Next up, I'm going to be swapping out the mild Crane camshaft that is in the engine right now for a more aggressive Isky one. Should hopefully wake things up a little more. I'm thinking something about the lines of 290-300 duration, and 490-535 lift. I already have the Schneider retainers, valve springs, and viton valve seals ready. The cam in my old head was about .520 lift or so, I'll need to check what lash caps it has on it.