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timothyblythe240z

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Everything posted by timothyblythe240z

  1. Auto meter gauges are good. Take a look at this for ideas. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/273254-aftermarket-gauges-82-280zx.html#/forumsite/20721/topics/273254
  2. You will more than likely need a larger radiator to cool the 302, also a custom drive shaft will have to be made. If you are going a with a carburetor there is no need for computer, pro comp makes a cheap two wire distributor, all you need is a coil and hot wire. It is easiest to perchase a one wire distrubutor, there are several ford styles floating around ebay. when I did a 302 swap in my 240 I left the stock springs, the engine is around 100 pound heavier then the L28 for me it made very little difference to the suspension. Probably one of the trickiest things to get right is the clutch setup, you will need a larger master cylinder, I went with a will wood pul style slave. I am now running a hydraulic throw out. There are a few other small details that would need worked out, gauges and what not. Good luck on the build I had lots of fun with mine
  3. I need to take some time and organize the photos into a time line. I was going to shorten the rear end but couldn't find a shop that could do it locally. I also would have had to shorten the front which would not have been something I wanted to do. I purchased a set of IMSA bubble flares for the rear and complete front fenders with flares for the front.
  4. This project was started a few years back, it began with the original L24 due to my lack of maintenance i seized the engine not once but twice. i then upgraded to an L28 block and added a 5 speed trans, this setup lasted for a while but it turn out this old engine burnt more oil than i added and soon had the same fate as the previous. i was hanging out at a local shop and was given the opportunity to purchase a 1987 302 with t5 trans for $400, i couldn't pass this up so i bought it and began the swap. it was set up with an edelbrock 650 carb, hydraulic throw out and open 200 from a 280 2+2. i drove this setup for around half a year. i had several issues with the clutch system, after taking a 600 mile trip to Florida the clutch was due for a change and the willwood slave cylinder was leaking and could no longer hold fluid. i then used this opportunity to make a few modifications, and so it began. the original idea was to keep the suspension all the same and build a 331 stroker, this changed after a while. i began to toss up the idea of doing a full frame car as apposed to a uni body. after thinking of how much weight i would add i decided to build a custom front end and do a sub frame connector. i cut the old front end off at the fire wall, build a frame and added a mustang 2 IFS, disc brake, rack and pinion steering. i built the engine with 347 stroker kit, forged internals, 520 lift cam, TFS 170cc twisted wedge heads coller rocker 1.7 ratio and an 800 CFM holley carb. i stayed with the t5, and am now in the process of adding Gforce gears and short throw shifter kit. i ditched the open 200 and whent with a ford 8.8 with 4.10 locker, coilovers and ten factory axle shafts. 285/50/15 tires for the rear and iron wheels, front are 235 with iron wheels. i was going to shorten the 8.8 but went with a wide body kit. made some custom chorvette style tail lights and did some other body mods.
  5. Did some final cutting the the car, cut out and patched the rear bumper mounts. Also had a chance to set up the new tail lights.
  6. Built the rear end last night, set it up with 4.10 gears. Chrome cover, new bearings and seals, ten factory axle shafts. Still need to install disc brakes for the rear, Mach it in place an take measurements for the custom backspaced wheels.
  7. Tires are from a ford ranger, only using them to have the car off the ground . The front roll bars are parallel to the pillers. I shot a video of the engine running, it has a pretty bad exhaust leak at the header flange. But sounds good at high rpm
  8. Its been a while but i have some updates on the build. Engine is now running, broke it in last week, Holley 800 double pumper, 2.5" exhaust x pipe to two glass pack mufflers. its is quite loud but sounds good. radiator is for a 95 mustang, mounted at an agle to fit, hose roughting was a bit tricky, had to use some stainless steel pipe with 90 degree bends to rought houses. Engine has march pulley setup, had some trouble with the waterpump pulley because i have the new stylle timing cover and water pump, ended up having to make a custom spacer. Made some custom fender flairs extends the wheel tub around 3".
  9. i am using 275/60/15 in the front, there is a good bit of room with the proper backspacing. Im using the mustang ifs, and diff because there cheap and good components I have been estimated with my current setup to be right around 500hp, after all this is complete i plan on boosting it but that is a while off. I wanted to build something different than everyone else, i also built it as sort of a rolling resume as i would like to get into custom builds or a speed shops
  10. Took some time off work and really buckled down to get some work done on the z. Finished all the fab work on the engine bay, full welded everything and did most of the finish grinding. I had a chance to flip the car and finish all the welding on the undercarriage, also did some final patch work on the rocker panels. The roll cage is complete aside from some small welding still left to do. The 347 is now built and mounted in the car to mach up the motor mounts. Everything is starting to come together quite nicely, still a bit more fab work, then comes the fun part of sanding for countless hours.
  11. what are you looking to get for all parts? im around an hour away from woodstock, so that would work out great
  12. Im looking for both right and left finders, headlight buckets and hood.
  13. From the beginning of this build i have been doing a lot of research on whats piratical and what works, at this point the pivit hood and finders are not what i think is good for this build. i have decided to have bolt on finders, and have the hood open from the front as opposed to how it was before. As of now i have most of the parts for the engine 347 stroker kit, scat cam, forged aluminum pistons 9.6.1 compression trickflow twisted wedge 170cc aluminum heads TFS hydraulic roller cam 291 duration 510 lift with factor rocker arm ratio SBF roller lifters, 1.7 ratio aluminum roller rockers Holley 700CF Double pump carburetor Its a slow process at the moment but i hope to have the car rolling and engine built by june
  14. From the beginning of this build i have been doing a lot of research on whats piratical and what works, at this point the pivit hood and finders are not what i think is good for this build. i have decided to have bolt on finders, and have the hood open from the front as opposed to how it was before. As of now i have most of the parts for the engine 347 stroker kit, scat cam, forged aluminum pistons 9.6.1 compression trickflow twisted wedge 170cc aluminum heads TFS hydraulic roller cam 291 duration 510 lift with factor rocker arm ratio SBF roller lifters, 1.7 ratio aluminum roller rockers Holley 700CF Double pump carburetor Its a slow process at the moment but i hope to have the car rolling and engine built by june
  15. The floor pans are complete and welded up, next will be the roll cage
  16. I have been out on the road for the past couple of months so i havent had much time to work on my project. I have a few pictures of the suspension, both front and rear are completed i now have the car on the ground.
  17. Sense I cut the front clip of the z as one complete unit I am able to use it as a base to build the custom front end. I bolted the hood back on the front, fitted the finders to get the lines as close as I could. The panels are quite flimsy at the lower rocker, so I'm going to weld some bracing to add strength and keep it frommoving around. I'm going to use bondo to to cover all the gaps, block sand the panels to get them as smooth and straight as possible. Then make a fiberglass mold of the complete front end, merging the finders, hood, light buckets and the little hatches on the side of the finder. My idea is to brace the fiberglass front end with metal skeleton, the whole thing will open as one. The plan is tohave the engine bay as bare as possible, once the front clip is opened it will reveal the engine and the front suspension. I'm wanting the wheel wells to open with the front as well so you get the full view of the engine from all angles. My only concern with this is there will be no real core support as the radiator will be bolted to theframe rails and brace bars to hold it in place. This would make a front end colision devastating to the engine. So I may concider adding a tubular bar infront of the radiator to act as a bumper to keep anything from reaching the engine. The drawing I had posted previously is the body style I am trying to create, the only other difference I'm considering is changing the lights to a more modern look.
  18. Here are some more pictures of the rear end build. i still have some more welding to do on the frame, then clean everything and seam seal. As of now, im in the process of saving money to build up the 8.8 with disc brakes, axle shafts and gears. I am also cleaning the undercoating off the bottom of the car, a quite tedious task. I appreciate the support, and the interest in my build.
  19. At firs for the rear end I wanted to put back and independent setup, but at a price I couldent afford. The alternative was a ford 8.8, I had looked in to several different options for linking the rear end to the body. The best setup I found was a triangulated four link. I did some research on it and wasent able to find much on intergrading it into a 240. I perchased a universal kit and began the process of installing it. After spending some time looking at how I wanted to approche the build I began mapping out the setup. I was able to install the four link with relative ease, only miner fabrication was nessisary. I will be piston pictures of the setup shortly
  20. After Doing some homework on the project i realized how much weight i would be adding if i made a full frame for the z, so i went in a little different direction. instead of doing a 1/8 thick frame the full length of the car, i only did the front frame rails as a solid unit. from the floor pans back i reinforced the the body with a tube frame. I began the project by taking some measurements of the frame rails, measured for the center of the wheels so the fenders would line up right when the crossmember is welded on. I drew some prints for the frame and began the precess of saving money for the metal and suspension parts. After taking careful measurements of everything i felt that i would need i cut the front of the body off at the firewall, i then began grinding the old rails back to the firewall. after everything was cleaned up on the front of the car i cut out the old rusted floorpans, and a few other various things i felt were unneeded. AS for the rear of the car i pulled the suspension off, cut the shoctowers down to the wheel well and cut out the spare tire enclosure making room for the fuel cell and 8.8 rear end that will be added later on. At this point the car is completely gutted there is nothing but the body left. after a few weeks of saving i was able to purchase a mustang two IFS, crossmember, metal, and other materials needed to build the frame. I am uploading some pictures of the progress and also some concept drawings
  21. solid frame, body separate from frame is the idea. I am still considering tube frame, as i am not sure of the correct way to construct a solid frame for this application.
  22. I'm out of Dawsonville, 60 miles north of Atlanta. I have always liked the body style of a 240, but i am also big into muscle cars. My idea is pretty much a muscle car with a 240 body. I want it to be very cut and dry, flat firewall squared out finder wells, and not much of an interior but a roll cage and seats.
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