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Found 146 results

  1. hi guys. I'm still trying to find why my car runs like crap, after 3 years (although I'm doing less and less about it. project fatigue combined with lack-of-a-clue-paralysis). Part of the problem is that I bought someone else's project (complete) "that only needed to be taken to the dyno for a tune," and since I didn't build it myself, I'm not sure what could be wrong in the set up. Issues i'm having is that it runs rough, both at idle and when driving. It'll misfire pretty much all the time, espcially under boost (but not ALWAYS). It's got a megasquirt, but it's essentially untuneable; I'll work on getting some ok AF mixtures, only for the AF ratios to go crazy for a week or two, then to change again... there are a few other weird things, but.. that's not the point of today's topic.... I've been thinking that my stock, original coil might be a little old, maybe not producing enough voltage anymore, or skipping some ignition events... but there is also the ignition module between the Megasquirt and the coil; that could also be faulty, I've seen set ups where the MS2 runs the coil directly... (DIYautotune https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/)... so really, I know I could modify my MSII to run the coil directly, is there a benefit to having a ignition module? should I even be looking at it? Thanks. Seb
  2. I have this lock looking thing on my driver side fender. I can't find pictures of this online or anything on it. It looks well done like it came out of the factory like this though. https://imgur.com/a/K8w7Wfr
  3. I'm picking up my 280zx with a manual trans and 90,000 miles. It needs brake lins but thats it acording to the owner. I plan on making this a project car and one day a weekend car. I'm not looking the get a ton of power out of it but I do want to make it look nice. I'm a good craftsman and fabricator in my opinion so I plan on making a lot of stuff in house. I want to lower it a good bit, give it some offset wheels and fender flares, and paint it all on a budget plus spruce up the inside. I can make the flares no problem but I'm not sure how im going to do the suspention. $900 coilovers are awsome but not in the buget for me. I have a welder though. I'm looking for links to diy suspenson maybe and what I should look for in rims. Also is $800 a decent deal? or not so much. best deal in my area but I have heard of people getting better deals Let me know if you have other Ideas for my project to. Thanks, Isaac
  4. So I just got my 1981 280zx its pretty rough but its 5 speed manual that runs and drives for $800. They guy said in the add that the car had 90,000 miles and I didn't notice the car read 9,000 miles. what does this mean could he have rolled it back or did he replace the dash. The title says nothing about the milage. Is there anything I can look at to gauge its milage. how can i check to see if the dash was replaced or tampered. Also does any one know how the check button works on the dash? Evenm when the engin is running it doesn't do anything when I press it. Is it broken or is there somthing else I need to do
  5. hello everyone I'm new to this forum and was wondering what kind of setup everyone is using for ungraded suspension parts on their 280ZXs? i haven't had much luck finding anything in terms of struts/ coilovers that work, and am curious as to what everyone has done
  6. Hello Hybridz. I am back with another 1983 280zx turbo 5speed. You may remember me from http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109641-1982-280zxt-log/ . I have been distant from the topic because after getting it fully back to stock, it got totaled Luckily no one was hurt and I was fully covered under my insurance. The insurance company was able to get me this I been working on getting this thing running smooth stock. Then after that Ill start adding more power. Overall this was a great start. Some things needed to be worked on asap. The clutch was getting pretty old when I first got the car and it recently gave. I am modernizing the engine as I replace and refresh the car. So far these have been added: Exhaust 3in SS Mandrel Bend Walker Exhaust 15034 MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14419 LC1 Wideband and Autotimer Gauge (soon) Brakes Centric Slotted Rotors Centric Calipers New Brake Master Cylinder New Brake Booster Stainless Steel Brake Lines Porterfield R4 AP229 AP230 pads Ignition NGK 4291 Spark Plugs NGK 8mm Wires Transmission Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch Kit Fidanza 10.5lb Flywheel Felpro Rear Main Bearing Set New Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder New O2 Sensor New PCV Valve New Fuel Filter (Soon) I am have issues smogging the car (Like every other Z out there). Even with all this stuff, the smog is off by a little. Idle speed and High Speed CO is about 3.5%, and it has to less than 1.29% Hydro Carbons are at 408, and they have to be less than 220. I put the timing at 24degrees. I'm going to push to back to 20. I have an old ECCS analyzer and it showed injector 3 not firing. I can hear it ticking, but its off. So I plan to change all the injectors out. With these the fuel rail will be swapped for a Pallnet rail, the fuel pump for a Walbro255lph, new connectors will be put in, and a new fpr. Now have two questions for injector sizing. I want to use o-ring style injectors for the new rail, but I am still using the stock ecu. Can the stock ecu run around 300cc? I have looked online and got mixed answers. What o-ring injectors would run with stock ecu? What kind of fuel pressure regulator would I run with those injectors? I plan to log more often and with more pictures. Upcoming New injectors Pallnet Fuel Rail 11mm Walboro 255 Fuel Pump Inline fuel filter Fram G3
  7. I have an '83 280zx and I wanted to replace my old steering coupler but after searching online, I can't find a rubber/poly replacement that will fit. Only ones I'm finding available are couplers for the manual rack 280zx or s30 models. I'm wondering does anyone know if any couplers from any earlier models will fit despite all these websites telling me otherwise? I'm trying not to resort to buying the pricey solid aluminum one from T3. Here's the link to it: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s130/steering-coupler-280zx-power-rack
  8. This post is to present some of the progress (with pictures that I have made (with alot of help) on my 280ZX. The first generation ZX (S130) doesn't get much respect from the early-Z crowd, but I have always preferred the more-finished look of the ZX. I got mine as my first car in 1996 and it hit 200,000 miles in 2001, I pulling the engine to rebuild it and decided I would clean up/paint the engine bay and restore the body. Here is some of the progress... This is just a test photo, since I've never posted before. I will post more pictures in the following posts...
  9. i bought my zx a couple years ago now my goal is partially a restomod but also creating a racecar setup. at the moment im finsihing up with my engine work including intake with pallnet rail and new injectors and the works and a header thats all fine and dandy but my big issue is the body! originally the only rust i found was the spare wheel well but that turned into small patches on all for quarters and passenger floor pan and rails, battery box, to my current discovery the windshield area both on the roof and the wiper cowl. with my lack of experience in body work i cut out the passenger floor and welded in some new steel not have bad for a rookie. i already planned on buying new fibergalss fenders for the front so no need to fix the fenders and i think i can handle the rear quarters but don't know how to work with the windshield trim areas. unlike the s30 the cowl doesn't unbolt so obviously i have to drill out tack welds. and i dont even know what im going to do with roof at the moment but im looking for advice from someone thats had to repair these particular areas before and i know i should have bought a new shell long ago but im in this one deep plus this has been the greatest learning project possible.
  10. Wheel broke off when I was driving cause my studs weren’t torqued probably haven’t driven my z in months and I’m itching to drive my z again need front wheel hub for the cheap I think 280z ones fit as well. Preferably people in Cali willing to pick up if you live close! Someone inbetween la or sd that has one!!
  11. 1- First one is Brand New GReddy Turbo Timer with the Turbo Timer Harness Brand: GReddy Part number: 15500020 + 15920001 With Original Manual. I'm asking 90$USD shipped anywhere in Canada and 48 states. 2- Second is Brand New GReddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost Controller Brand: GReddy Part number: 15500209 With Original Manual in original box I'm asking 300$USD shipped anywhere in Canada and 48 states.  I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  12. Looking for a stock T3, 81-83 280zx or 84-86 300zx T3 turbo. Good condition and functional preferred, but interested in turbos needing a rebuild as well. Additionally, I'm interested in a functional well working t3/t4 hybrid for separate Z project. Thanks fellas!
  13. Quick update for anyone wondering about these seats I have a 1983 280ZX and I threw in some corbeau GTS II seats with shaved bases and a corbeau dual locking slider on the driverside and a single locking slider, on the passenger side. and corbeau bolt in seat brackets. I'm 6 foot tall but have a 30" inseam so you can imagine my torso is a bit taller than normal. Anyways they sat higher than stock and I ran out of head room and had to drive kind of slouched with the T-Top sunshade removed. To fix the passenger side I removed the sliding rail and bolted the bracket straight to the seat, reinstalled and I now have plenty of room, even with the sunshade installed. I will be doing to the same to the driverside. But removing the slider makes it difficult to install the rear-outer bolt but its doable especially if you have small arms. Other than that, great seats that work with with my 2" 4pt harnesses.
  14. So I purchased these rear brackets from MSA, I installed everything they said to use , 85’ maxima calipers/pads(rear) , 82’ 280zx rotors(rear). It all mounts up fine, but the pads are only using about half, they don’t seem to fit all the all the way down using up all the rotor surface?? Has anyone else experienced this issue?
  15. Hi everyone, I have swapped rb20 into 280zx 1983turbo. The stock speedometer was straight forward mechanical outputs, but I don’t know how to modify stock tachometer to take a rb20 signal . Any advice is appreciated as always
  16. Hi everyone, I have swapped rb20 into 280zx 1983turbo. The stock speedometer was straight forward mechanical outputs, but I don’t know how to modify stock tachometer to take a rb20 signal . Any advice is appreciated as always
  17. Currently building an L28ET and I an looking to buy: 1. Megasquirt relay and cable (MSRelay-C / MSRelayCable) 2. 54 mm Optical Trigger Wheel for Nissan L28ET 3. 440cc Injectors 4. Fuel Rail, 11mm injector size Thank you!
  18. Hi everyone, I'm new here, but had to make an account as I'm dying to figure out why I keep seeing photos online of 280zx's with what appear to be stock bumpers without any "bumps" for lack of a better term. Almost all s130's (including mine, 1979 2 seater) seem to have two bumps on both the front and rear bumpers, however these few that don't (I think) look much better. I also think the rear bumper on these "flat" versions might be smaller (protrude less). I have a theory that this may have something to do with the cars being JDM/RHD/not North American models but I haven't found anything to back this up. If anyone has an explanation or a place where these bumpers (or similar) can be purchased I would love to hear! I have attached some photos that I've found on the internet of the "flat" examples. Thanks! - Jim
  19. Ive been looking for a few hours now and i cant find what im looking for anywhere. Something i need to get out of the way, im not going to use toyota brakes... thats not what im looking for. What i would like to do is put z32 (or z31 5 lug) wheel hub, rotars, and calipers on my 1981 280zx turbo. My thought and question is, can i take off my 4 lug wheel hub and bolt on a z32 5 lug hub, then bolt directly on z32 4 piston stock brakes. I plan on doing 5 lug 15 inch wheels so I should have clearance but i dont know if everything will line up. I dont want to spend more than $500 on the brake conversion but I can go higher if i need to.
  20. Hi! The doors on my 280zx are rattling (partly cause the striker is worn) and the rubber cover/ bumper on the drivers side door switch is worn through, which makes the metal striker hit the door AND makes the door light turn on all the time (its great when the car thinks your door is opened overnight. Does wonder to battery charge) Two questions: 1. Can anyone tell me the original, brand new diameter for the plastic part of the door striker? I'll try to 3d print a replacement and see if that can work (possibly with a rubber core.. I'll post something somewhere if it works) 2. Can anyone tell me of a good place to buy the rubber cover for the door switches? Looking for price as a primary criteria... Thanks! Seb
  21. Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
  22. getting ready to start the paint process on my s130. i barely have useable trim and weatherstripping but would make for much less of headache if i can find any peice of trim or weatherstripping. mainly looking for windshield and rear hatch glass trim and any weather stripping. thank you for any help
  23. hi guys! Realized today that not only do I have some water leaking from my t-top seal (right at the top of the a pillar, where the car seal meets the t-top seal), but I have quite the air gad where the window meets the b-pillar.. I'm guessing the seal has sagged and lost elasticity after all these years and isn't pushing on the window anymore. My current budget for the whole car (and there a quite a few things due) is zero dollars. so I was thinking of being creative to fix the seal. I though of maybe injecting something that would "inflate" the seal, ideally some kind of rubber foam of some sort, but that would be messy and inconsistent at best. Then I realized that most weather seals are essentially rubber tubes, and that I could possibly insert a rubber tube within the weatherstrip, which would basically make it behave like new. I checked it out online and found two references wher people had successufully done this with other cars (this is one, the other is a youtube vid doing the same thing ish... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body/741222-t-top-car-help.html) I was curious if anyone had any old seals that were cut up so i can get a picture of the cross section. It could tell me if the idea would work on tour seals and what diameter tube I could potentially use, as a bonus.... also, any opinions or suggestions are welcomed
  24. I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
  25. Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
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