yellowoctupus
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Posts posted by yellowoctupus
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FMU is a Fuel Management Unit. (Adjustable fuel pressure) It's still vacuum/ boost goverened, but you can bump up the spring pressure on the diaphragm. If you're planning on only going to 7/8 lbs of boost (super or turbocharged, makes no difference) , you may be able to use a turbo regulator, as it will still regulate fuel off of vacuum AND boost pressure (as long as you have the corresponding turbo (brown top) injectors).
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Yeah, thankfully I got all the welding/machining done before I graduated, I went to an engineering school with a real good machine shop. (otherwise I don't have the machinery to do that either! It's an M62...I think 2nd gen, but not certain. Same as you, got it for 70$ on ebay.
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I'd like to post a new picture of the finished manifold, but my wireless is bein crazy (i'll be lucky if I can get this to post while it's on). I've got some old pictures at my website , http://www.geocities.com/yellowoctupus ,under the car section. What are the diameters of your two pulleys? I did the calculations for diameters etc, but wasn't really sure what effeciency numbers to use. I'm looking to run what you've got, around 7/8 psi.
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hey, don't end it now! I just found it today!! I'm putting an M62 on my 78 right now, I did it a little differently, cut up a stock 81 manifold and made a custom mount for it direct, but a lot of routings etc are similar. Did that v/serp pulley come on the zx you mentioned, or did you cobb them together?
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Holy wow that is a huge intercooler. I'm quite sure I've never seen one this large on a car so small! Great cooling I guess, but won't that cause huge lag time getting that volume to pressurize? I can see you have an equally large turbo back there too, but still!
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I do agree that the main problem was definetly the plugged radiator, and that probably anything I did besides fix the radiator would not significantly lower the temp. I should have thought that through before posting, sorry.
On the other hand, the AC condensor's fins are relatively short and spread far apart; I think that unless the AC was on and creating heat (in which case you couldn't remove it either way of course) it won't do much as far as impeding flow goes.
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I just drove my 280 down to Charleston SC from Buffalo NY with a basically plugged radiator (didn't realize it since last time I drove it was last summer, from CA to NY, with no problems at all). Just two notes I'd like to add and a question afterwards.
1. Be careful with ducting, as you still need a bit of airflow over injectors (fuel lines in particular, i'd suppose this would be the same for carboureted guys too) as you'll get some real nice vapor lock if you're running hot and blocking airflow over those components as well. (Almost got stuck in VA when I shut off my car for 20 mins because of that.)
2. Removing the AC condensor does VERY little. I was running hot (aka...240/250 deg) and removed the condensor, which over its 30 yrs had a good collection of bugs, and mud wasp nests etc behind it and saw NO CHANGE at all in temp. ( I already had the tsat out) Then, I proceeded to remove hood vents and drove the rest of the way down with the hood popped open to try to help airflow to no avail. (needless to say I was pretty desperate).
I've searched and seen other members discussing aluminum radiators, I was wondering if anybody's found at a junkyard a radiator that worked well with front mounted electric fans. I'm trying to A:cool my engine properly while B: making more room between the engine and radiator for my serpentine belt drive (Eaton M62 supercharger).
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I just picked up some turbo injectors for my project at a local yard, I was wondering if I should have picked up the turbo dizzy too?? Any thoughts , or can I just set my NA dizzy static? Also, should I pick up the turbo afm?
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yeah....flow..... I'm kinda banking on the fact that I'll have pressure and I've got a decent volume there to minimize the effects of the first three runners getting more air than the last three (since the supercharger is basically offset to the front by a bit. We'll see...will definitely keep everybody posted with pics, in a few weeks I'll test fit it on my spare block when I go home for spring break.
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The exhaust side sc manifold is coming along.......
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I am in the midst of finishing up my M62 supercharger intake and am looking at injector selection. I was able to get a chart of different flow rates for injectors from Blue's website, but I'm not real familiar with injector styles, as far as what ones will fit into stock 280 mounts. Are they all pretty much standard, or do some have different hold - down blocks and seal setups? (I know 280zxt's will probably work, but I'm just looking for information/alternatives)
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1tuffz, not sure who you're talking to, but I'm sure not going to do the turbo+supercharger route (although it would be a logical progression seeing I'm running the sc on the intake/exhaust side.....). Not for now anyways. The trickiest part of this entire hoopla is that my car is 303 mi from me, at home (still a student) and I'm working on what I THINK will work. (pray will work!!!!!!)
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280zedx, nice work, very clean. I'm currently fabbing up an intake for my M62 but I'm running the whole thing on the intake side, should be interesting. I know you mentioned you're running a 2 series, but is it an M62 or M90? What boost are you running , and correspondingly what injectors? I think I figured the zxt's would work fine, but I'm wondering if I can just run an FMU to make the stock injectors put out the volume I need. Phil
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Wow, i guess I posted that last reply too soon, I jumped the green to green yellow as is shown in the lower diagram, and the blinkers work great!! Thanks a lot guys, turns out the inside of the haz switch was all corroded, clean enough to turn on the haz lights, but not enough to let the blinkers work. While we're on the topic of electrical, I have two other questions. The first is simple, but what is floor temp? I've never seen that in other cars. The second is how many switches do I have going to the 'brake' light that's in the speedo pod? I figured the two brake level switches at the master cylinder, but are there more? Even with the fluid level switches removed and turned upside down (so the floats would be reading 'full' ) the light still stays on.
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I guess I misspoke when I said 'relay', I should have said flasher. That is a great diagram though, mine is huge and literally an enormous spiderweb of wires. Correct me if I'm wrong, but according to the top of the diagram I should be getting power to the flasher unit whenever the hazards are off, right?
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This is the long and short of my problem: I have no blinkers working, but all the lights themselves work on the hazards circuit. The switches are clean and work, as well as the blinker relay when I connected it to 12V at the battery. When I hit the switch, no blinkers, no relay click, nothing. All the fuses are good, as well as the contacts to them (I checked the fuses with a multimeter across the contacts themselves.) Any ideas? The horn works as well as high low beams, which are all on the same harness. With the switch removed, I can jump them manually, but still no relay click or lights....
Pics of my supercharged L-28
in Turbo / Supercharger
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I haven't read Corkey Bell's book, but A.Graham Bell (no, not THE Alexander Graham Bell, but another one I guess) came out with a pretty good book too, Forced Induction Tuning.