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yellowoctupus

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yellowoctupus last won the day on March 25 2013

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About yellowoctupus

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  • Birthday 11/19/1984

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    yellowoctupus
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    http://people.clarkson.edu/~mitchepj/

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    Kailua, HI

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  1. Sounds like you have leaky injectors or something. I don't think I've heard of that being a Ford problem necessarily though. They could have varnish on the pintle seats I guess? Maybe if you run them for a while it'll clear that issue up, or get them cleaned/tested.
  2. Yeah! Glad to see you're back at it! I can't remember if you already had it running, but now that I switched to the Megasquirt when I put on my supercharger, I now have two 4.6 ECUs that are 'unlocked', ie no PATS etc. If someone needs one, PM me.
  3. Ratsun would be another good place to look for 210 swaps. We're 99% Z's over here, but of course appreciate some 1% madness too!
  4. By the way, this is where you can look up WIX filters by spec. Unfortunately, to get a lot of the other dimensions you have to click on each part number, which is a pain, but it is doable. http://www.wixfilters.com/lookup/FilterBySize.aspx
  5. Been driving the car to work a bit lately and working on my tune steadily. It's getting better running the autotune feature in megasquirt, but i think the old units (like I have) the autotune is really slow. Would be REALLY helpful to have one person drive, the other person tune. Oh well. My dad will be in town next week, maybe we can get out and do a little tuning. I redid the mount for the clutch slave cylinder to get a more optimal push 'direction'. No pictures yet. .. Also, had a big fuel system issue for a while. Turns out (2 fuel pumps later!) the 10µ fuel filter I installed was actually intended for low flow hydraulic systems, and had quickly clogged up with tiny bits of who knows what. Aftermarket filters are IMO mindbogglingly expensive, so I did some digging and came up with what I feel is a good solution with parts that can be picked up at any auto parts store. The pre filter I used is a 140µ wire mesh WIX 33270 (NAPA 3270-$10) with 3/8 in and out hose barb style terminations. I also replaced my tank to fuel pump line which ran me a under $10 in low pressure line. I think I bought 4ft and had a little left. I also used a Unicoil 3/8" to make sure the hose didn't collapse on the 90° bend to the fuel pump. The high pressure filter is a kit (PN 910-34190) from Speedway Motors which is cool as it comes with 2x AN-6 to 3/8" quick connect (OEM) style adapters (PN 617-44120). The filter's rated at 120gph(!) at 60psi and has a 10µ filter element (PN 910-33190). The kit was $34. You can order just the replacement filter from them as well, but I'll just figure out the OEM number for that too, so I can get it locally if need be. All went in pretty smoothly and the car actually runs better too. I wasn't leaning out at the high end (surprisingly) but the pump WAS making weird noises and had a varying fuel pressures.
  6. Bit of a pain to find a locker for the 28spline IRS, but not impossible.
  7. ....fastest 200 days of my life. I think I spent all of it sleeping too. I should feel more rested....
  8. The validity of that statement depends largely upon the hardening done to the original shaft. I would imagine they are induction case hardened at the splines only, so while it will be easier to cut down and remachine new grooves outside of the hardened shaft area, you consequently would have weaker splines. Additionally, are you having the splines rolled or cut? IIRC Ford used to run different diameter shafts to help counter wheel hop. (Of couse this does nothing for shaft strength, it just changes their torsional stiffness.)
  9. Yeah...we get it. Glad to see you're forging (or is that foraging...) ahead! I saw you pop up over on the MS Facebook group a while back working on this one. MS can be a peculiar beast sometimes.
  10. Wow, how did I miss this one. And then find it 9 years too late! I'll gladly bring this one back from the dead for somebody else to find! Kudos!
  11. Thanks! Working on getting my gauges working again today. They all got disconnected when I made my scratch built engine harness.
  12. Got the cars off the boat, other than being filthy, they're both in good shape, no damage, fired right up etc. Just a few quick shots of the intake configuration. I finished this literally the night before we drove the cars down to the port. Kinda wonky swinging around to the other side, but there's no room for the air filter in front of the radiator, and no room on the driver's side, so it works over there. I like the idea of it pulling from a 'cold air' intake, but for now the hood vent above it will have to do. The blue elbow coming off the throttle body was kind of a pain to fab up; in the end it came out pretty well, for what it is. Took it out the other day, and while there's still some super lean parts in the higher rpm, low load parts of the tune I'm working through, luckily the 'in boost' part of the tune looks pretty safe. And fast. Gotta get somebody to go for a ride-along so I can tune while we drive. Maybe someone in the local Z club.... volunteers??? I have to hook up a vacuum gauge to that Ford Air Filter Indicator thing I've got on there too. I don't know at what point it is 'fully extended' but I'm sure that's not a good sign if it is! I installed it mainly as a novelty, but if it shows the filter's not adequate, I'll have to....do something...I guess? Can't imagine running a bigger air filter, I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I get there. IIRC it's off a late 90s/ early 2000s direct injected turbodiesel. I think even though they're branded Ford they're made by a Donaldson and are marketed as the "Filter Minder".
  13. Yeah man, time flies. Since Prunedale CA, we've lived in Port Hueneme CA, Groton CT, Silverdale WA and Bremerton WA. Less than a week we'll be in Oahu! The Navy keeps you coast hopping, that's for sure. I'll have to get a few pictures up here when I have time, I think I saved them on my 'porta-drive'. Movers just packed up the house, and the Z is down in Seattle waiting to go on a boat tomorrow for it's big trip. Hope it fires up ok for them, lol. I had literally 1hr to tune it before we drove the cars down to the Seattle Port. It's a pretty rough tune. Works ok, but lots of weird flat spots etc. The laptop battery died before I could really dial it in. The hood does close now wth some new intake routing, and I made a new pulley to drop that boost down from the (maybe?) 10psi I was seeing to hopefully 7ish, 8max. Starting with a 9.8CR isn't ideal for big boost. Picture isn't the clearest, but what do you expect from a 5yr old at least we've got our heads in this one.
  14. Are your wiring issues ignition/spark related or fuel related? Any thoughts of going EDIS to ditch the distributor? (I'm not familiar with the FITech, but I'm assuming it can control an EDIS module??)
  15. Ok, I think I got the video up there ^ straightened out. Direct FLV, MP4 didn't work great, VIMEO didn't want to embed properly, but YouTube seemed to work really well. Working on upgrading the fuel system. My megasquirt logs showed the car going lean a few times, which may be an artifact of the tune not being complete, but the stock pump/fuel lines are honestly probably not up to the task, so I'm going to run a Walbro GSL392 (255lph) external pump with an Arrow 10micron post filter and a full run of 6AN stainless braided PTFE hose up to the engine bay. I have a ton of hose, so I'm not worried about the expense. (I think I have 60ft of hose, or something crazy like that). Sorting out all the lines/fittings is taking longer than I'd like, but when a single fitting is $10-$15 I'm going to take my time. Oh, and the hood won't close with the intake ducting setup the way I have it. Oops. Shouldn't be a terribly difficult fix, but will take some time.
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