Jump to content
HybridZ

yellowoctupus

Members
  • Content Count

    400
  • Donations

    20.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

yellowoctupus last won the day on March 25 2013

yellowoctupus had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About yellowoctupus

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/19/1984

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    yellowoctupus
  • Website URL
    http://people.clarkson.edu/~mitchepj/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kailua, HI

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Another 'clunk worthy' item. My front diff mount has been holding up pretty well, however I used a somewhat thin walled steel tube when I made it (what I had in the scrap pile at the time...) and it has been bending and compressing the diff bolts into the tube, so there was play there too. I got a thicker walled tube this time ( blue one) and removed the diff ear rubber bushings and just solid mounted it there. The assembly still has the polyurethane LCA mount bushings to take up vibration etc.
  2. I ate up an inner CV a few weeks ago. Not a single needle bearing was still in the rollers. It was still somehow driveable, but what a mess. Here's the PN for the new 'inner assembly' only, as it's getting hard to find full assemblies OEM. Aftermarket axles normally have the wrong spline count on the center bar so those are not an option either. This PN is for the non-abs models, which of course suits me fine. Axle is all back together, and is nice and smooth again. Explains the nasty clunk I had for a while.
  3. I'm assuming you are going by these designs: https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Drawings.pdf From the dimensions shown in his PDF, you should have 6.3" from the top of your frame rails to the top of the lower tube. (9.103" * sin(45))-(0.187" * sin(45)) = 6.3" I have been running a similar design for my supercharged 4.6 for years with two through-frame rali bolts on each side (vertical holes). No problems, you don't need extra beef. I didn't even weld in sleeves to keep the frame rails from crushing. I would allow for the whole cradle assembly to slide front and back to facilitate engine installs. (don't weld studs in from the top or overthink it generally). One thing I WOULD do if I were you is add a bolt in plate (I actually thought Brian's design incorporated a bolt in center section) to allow the oil pan to be dropped without jacking the engine off it's mounts, etc. Next time my engine's out i am going to change my design. It's had a minor oil leak for years that I can't be bothered to pull the whole engine/trans etc to deal with.
  4. Dude! Great pictures! Car looks like it came out really clean too. Right down to the OEM hood latch ( I had to remove mine when I went from the SOHC to the DOHC 4.6....) Glad to see you're enjoying it. The 'in car' picture from the Mini almost has a video game appearance to it.
  5. Sounds like you have leaky injectors or something. I don't think I've heard of that being a Ford problem necessarily though. They could have varnish on the pintle seats I guess? Maybe if you run them for a while it'll clear that issue up, or get them cleaned/tested.
  6. Yeah! Glad to see you're back at it! I can't remember if you already had it running, but now that I switched to the Megasquirt when I put on my supercharger, I now have two 4.6 ECUs that are 'unlocked', ie no PATS etc. If someone needs one, PM me.
  7. Ratsun would be another good place to look for 210 swaps. We're 99% Z's over here, but of course appreciate some 1% madness too!
  8. By the way, this is where you can look up WIX filters by spec. Unfortunately, to get a lot of the other dimensions you have to click on each part number, which is a pain, but it is doable. http://www.wixfilters.com/lookup/FilterBySize.aspx
  9. Been driving the car to work a bit lately and working on my tune steadily. It's getting better running the autotune feature in megasquirt, but i think the old units (like I have) the autotune is really slow. Would be REALLY helpful to have one person drive, the other person tune. Oh well. My dad will be in town next week, maybe we can get out and do a little tuning. I redid the mount for the clutch slave cylinder to get a more optimal push 'direction'. No pictures yet. .. Also, had a big fuel system issue for a while. Turns out (2 fuel pumps later!) the 10µ fuel filter I installed was actually intended for low flow hydraulic systems, and had quickly clogged up with tiny bits of who knows what. Aftermarket filters are IMO mindbogglingly expensive, so I did some digging and came up with what I feel is a good solution with parts that can be picked up at any auto parts store. The pre filter I used is a 140µ wire mesh WIX 33270 (NAPA 3270-$10) with 3/8 in and out hose barb style terminations. I also replaced my tank to fuel pump line which ran me a under $10 in low pressure line. I think I bought 4ft and had a little left. I also used a Unicoil 3/8" to make sure the hose didn't collapse on the 90° bend to the fuel pump. The high pressure filter is a kit (PN 910-34190) from Speedway Motors which is cool as it comes with 2x AN-6 to 3/8" quick connect (OEM) style adapters (PN 617-44120). The filter's rated at 120gph(!) at 60psi and has a 10µ filter element (PN 910-33190). The kit was $34. You can order just the replacement filter from them as well, but I'll just figure out the OEM number for that too, so I can get it locally if need be. All went in pretty smoothly and the car actually runs better too. I wasn't leaning out at the high end (surprisingly) but the pump WAS making weird noises and had a varying fuel pressures.
  10. Bit of a pain to find a locker for the 28spline IRS, but not impossible.
  11. ....fastest 200 days of my life. I think I spent all of it sleeping too. I should feel more rested....
  12. The validity of that statement depends largely upon the hardening done to the original shaft. I would imagine they are induction case hardened at the splines only, so while it will be easier to cut down and remachine new grooves outside of the hardened shaft area, you consequently would have weaker splines. Additionally, are you having the splines rolled or cut? IIRC Ford used to run different diameter shafts to help counter wheel hop. (Of couse this does nothing for shaft strength, it just changes their torsional stiffness.)
  13. Yeah...we get it. Glad to see you're forging (or is that foraging...) ahead! I saw you pop up over on the MS Facebook group a while back working on this one. MS can be a peculiar beast sometimes.
  14. Wow, how did I miss this one. And then find it 9 years too late! I'll gladly bring this one back from the dead for somebody else to find! Kudos!
  15. Thanks! Working on getting my gauges working again today. They all got disconnected when I made my scratch built engine harness.
×
×
  • Create New...