ColtGT4g63
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Posts posted by ColtGT4g63
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Then I would say no. And I think its highly unlikely that your headers would rust and rot out on you. I'm sure there are guys on the board who can vouch for the quality of mild steel headers that they've bought years ago. Maybe you could look into custom header fabricator and see if they're willing to do it.
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Anyone make stainless steel headers for a 240z/ls1/t56 combo?
With a search, you will find that there is really only one place that you can buy headers for an LS1 240Z. Try a search, shoot the company an Email to see what they make their headers out of. That would be my suggestion. My guess is they're using mild steel, I would think that Stainless would cost a lot more then what they're selling them for.
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I think I would like to keep it in the 500hp range. That should be fast enough to scare the ♥♥♥♥ out of me, who knows... I've got plenty of outside car pics.
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Where is your MAF?
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Looks great! Are you running on speed density?
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any news on how the car is running ? this project has me excited! cant wait to see a video with boost =)
Okay, so I think I have narrowed down the stuttering problem to one of my O2 sensors. I hooked up the HP tuners to the car and sat down with it to do a little diag. I found that bank 1 O2 is stuck at .1v and causing the fuel trim to max the F out. Injection timing for bank 1 was 4 times the p/w of bank 2. So whenever the car was in closed loop, it would jump WAY too much fuel and the car would bog. This explains why the car would run better when cold, and would eventually run smoother if I gave it more gas. I have ordered up some new O2 sensors and hopefully will get them by the end of the week so I can throw 'em in. I also got my 2nd fuel pump, and 60# / hr. injectors so those will be going in the car this weekend as well. Along with a larger fuel line. I also ordered a 2 bar Map sensor for when I convert the car over to speed density. I also got me a screw in IAT, so I have to weld a bung unto the IC pipe as well. Luckily I have a 4 day weekend this weekend so ALOT of stuff will get done. If my O2 sensor come in, I'll try to make a driving video with some cool noises for everyone.
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Thanks guys, Ya the bottom end is stock.
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BTW, thought I would add here that I've got a set of 36# hr. FAST injectors for sale if anyone is interested. After purchasing them, I decided on the whole turbo thing so I ended up getting some 60#. I'm thinking... 225$ shipped.
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So heres an update with the car... I finally got it drivable and took it out for a spin. Car miss fires like crazy! and will sputter pretty much the entire time while driving. Hard to say what it is but I think its ignition related. Possibly my plug wires. Whats funny is, if I give it a little more throttle it'll get through the missing and run smooth for a sec. I'm going to try a new set of plug wires, and also see if I can borrow a maf to try. Kind of disappointing, But I at least accomplished my goal for the weekend and got the car running.
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If its that tight you might mant to consider a flex section right after the turbo or youll crack something
I meant tight as in, The exhaust welding / cuts had to be perfect in order for it to fit in the location I wanted it.
This just in.... The car runs!!! I finished up everything else I needed to to today in order to fire it up. Started first try and I ran it for aprox. 20 seconds. I'll giving it some of the finishing touches over the weekend that will make it somewhat drivable. Heres some of my final pics.
Oh ya! I forgot... heres a video of the first start up.
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Okay I'll stop with the torture already, and post up my down pipe pics.
The turbine outlet is a 3.5" outlet, but since I want to run the exhaust OVER the cross member, I had to step it down to a 3"
There is a small pocket right under the passenger side mount that is about 3.5" in diameter. This is where I ran my exhaust though. It was TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT fitting it, and its close to stuff, but everything will be wrapped, so I don't think it'll cause any problems.
right after the engine is where I'm going to step up the exhaust diameter to 3.5". For now, I'm just going to run open down pipe
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Hey guys i have a question. For you people using the lsx engines with the fly by wire pedal, how did you guys mount the pedal in your Z cars? i have a 240z and im not sure how to moung the electronic gas pedal? any special mounts out there or should i just make my own brakets?
Mine has a cable, but I think some of the guys who did the electronic pedal just drilled holes in the fire wall and used nuts / bolts. Maybe a plate on the engine bay side to clamp down to.
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So after work today, I decided that working on cars for 9 hours wasn't enough. So I pulled out the 'ol chop saw and fired up the welder. I got all my intercooler pipes painted, and finished up my down pipe. All I've pretty much got left to do is get the external wastegate welded on the manifold, and reinstall everything. Run a few vacuum lines then its time to fire this baby up!!! This weekend for sure... Heres some pics of the goods.
Sorry! No pics of the down pipe installed on the car.
I'll save those pics for later so the dying minds can sweat it out a little more. Haha -
Looks pretty good! Did you change the cam out at all?
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Nice build. Make sure you take the top off the wastegate and put a lock nut on the diaphram shaft. It will be loose more than likely with the nut it comes with. Don't want anything bad to happen because of a 5 cent nut. But I haven't had any problems with that gate so far and it doesn't creep. There should be two springs in there already which is 17 pounds of boost. If you take the bigger diameter spring out (its 2 pounds) and leave the stiffest one in there it will get you 15 pounds. The extra spring that comes with is 8 pounds I think. Just in case you didn't know.
Hey thanks dude! And thanks for the tips, I just popped open the gate and saw that its already got a lock washer under the nut, so I gave it a little snug to make sure its nice and tight. I'm a little relieved to know that the bigger spring will make it boost that low. I'll just use that, and put in a boost controller to go up from there. BTW, your car is awesome! And was my inspiration for going turbo.
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How come you didn't use V-band flanges on the manifold to crosspipe flanges?
I got the flanges extremely cheap, I am having second thoughts on it though due to having a gasket in there. If I would have used Vband I wouldn't have gaskets to worry about. I'm just gonna roll with it for now.
What are you gonna do with those 243's you're going to have laying around?I'll be selling them for somewhere in the area of 500$ But I have no idea how far down the road that will be. But I'm going to run the car on the 243's for a while. Having the car inop sucks...
That, and I don't even have 317's in my possession yet. -
I searched the threads for machine shops in or around san diego and only recieved 3 hits and none had any useful info. Does anyone know of a machine shop they would recommend somewhere in or near san diego county for having some work done on my rb30 block. I need to have the standard rebuild work done like the tanking, etc. plus i need to have it bored and decked and the crank collar done as well as internals installation. Thanks for your help, Steve.
Not sure if you still need one or not, but I use wholesale Auto Machine (WAM) down off Friars Rd. in Mission Gorge area. We sublet all machine shop worthy repairs to them from my work and have never really had any problems. I've also had them do machine work on my race 4 cyl. motors. No problems.
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ColtGT4g63, what pn is the volvo upper rad hose you used? looks nearly perfect!
Its the lower radiator hose from a early style S/V40, 2000 - 2004.5 PN-9492891 maybe?
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This rain is freakin killin me! But I squeezed in a little fabrication time last night while I could. I pretty much finished the manifold entirely, with the exception of the external wastegate. And I didn't get my final Vband pieces so I won't be able to make the down pipe this weekend either. Once the rain lets up I can finish up the both intercooler pipes. Wire in my pusher fan. And try to wrap up any other misc. pieces that need attention before I fire it up!
Heres a few pics of the cross over section of the manifold all finished up.
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Depending on how long he actually drove it on the "bad noise" if he's lucky enough he may be able to get away with throwing in a set of rod bearings. Before even pulling the pan, try throwing some oil in there and starting it up and see how it sounds, maybe you won't even have to change the bearing. Who knows... I would plan on worst case scenario, but try the easy stuff first.
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The Vband parts are all mild steel, I picked it all up from siliconintakes.com, Which is also the same place that I picked up the stainless bends to make the cross over pipes on the manifold. They've got quite a bit of DIY stuff, as well as others things too, and they're pricing is pretty decent. I picked up the BOV flanges from a shop I use to work at called RoadRaceEngineering, they've got a whole bunch of DIY parts as well.
You can get those blow off Valves off of any 90 - 94 mitsu eclipse, Eagle Talon, or plymouth laser turbo. I already had one in the garage from my old car, and picked up another for 30$. Much cheaper then going for a single bigger one.
Man tha thing is gonna be really slowwwww.......I totally agree with you....
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So Heres a few pics I snapped of some of the progress I've made during the week. I'm getting pretty anxious for the week end to arrive!!!
Harbor Freight tig welder at its best!
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Hey dave im probably getting ahead of the game but where do you plan on routing the downpipe?
I've got a couple idea's, but am not going to let the cat out of the bag juuust yet.
Unfortunately I don't think I'm going to get my V band pieces in time before this week end either so I may not be able to start the down pipe until next weekend. Hummm.... Tonight I got my upper intercooler pipe all finished up. Got both Blow off Valve flanges welded onto it. As well as finished welding the fittings for the oil lines. My goal is to just start the car up this weekend with open turbine housing. Should be fun! I wanna make the Neighbors think that a jet is taking off on our street. -
*What Brand/Style gauge set(s) do yall LS1 swap guys recommend (IE: Speedo, Tach, Oil pressure, Water temp, Voltage)..That will fit in the Stock dash holes.
for the 3 smaller I used 52mm, for the two larger, I'm pretty sure they're 4", all fit in the stock holes. Mounting them is up to your creativity level. They are Autometer Phantom Gauges.
*What fuel pump is popular, if I want to use the stock mounting location and stock tank?I'm currently using a walbro 255HP, inline. I did use this pump with the stock 240 tank temporarily before I upgraded to a fuel cell.
*Does anyone have a pic of a complete Johns Cars left side Motor mount?Browse through here: http://home.tiora.net/davidc/?path=Datsun%2FV8%20Swap
I've got a few pics in there of the left side motor mount, and how I installed it into the car ect.
*Is the stock body/chassis strong enough to hold a 380rwhp N/A car with an automatic and 4k stall converter? (The car has two small moon roofs).It probably is, but getting a cage in the car is always a good idea. Also to mention the safety of a cage is a good idea as well. When my car was dynoing 411 to the wheels I had nothing but a 4 point roll bar. And it seemed to hold up just fine.
*Does anyone besides Jegs make a nicer Roll Cage kit? Or is a custom one the way to go with the Z cars?I don't know of any other place that makes it specifically for a Z car, maybe try Auto power? Lots of people end up building their own from what I've seen.
*Is anyone using the Stock radiator? If not, whats the best cost effective recommendation?Ordering the radiator and mounting bracket from JTR would be the easiest to work with the LS1 swap.
I'll save those pics for later so the dying minds can sweat it out a little more. Haha
That, and I don't even have 317's in my possession yet.
Project Turbo LS1
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Thanks dude, Ya they are HTR Z's. I have no complains with these tires, and would definitely buy them again. The freakin price is right!