das_hef

im pretty sure that the axle is not bent, like i said, when i looked under the z, the axle half-shaft was spinning perfectly balanced. as for the stub axle, i didnt check it, i didnt have the time to pull my brakes and stuff off. and i dont have the equipment at home to pull the stub. my wheels are almost brand new, and i havent hit any curbs any more than just a small check while making a u-turn. or done any dukes of hazzard-esque jumps. so i can almost rule out the wheel or any of my own wrong-doing, plus its pulling the brake disc back and fourth along with the wheel. and i do get a slight pulsation in the brake pedal under braking. im taking it back to the shop tomorrow, one of the guys from there came by my shop today and i talked to him about it. he reluctantly told me to bring it in. all i can hope for is that they do work with me, and that they wont screw anything else up ill poke around on the net to see if i can find a stub axle somewhere. but the only junkyard i know of that carrys z's is this guy with a whole lot full of them whos about 2 hours away. despite the distance, i still consider myself lucky that i know the guy, he gives me amazing prices on stuff too. thanks for all your help guys, its appreciated.

ive got a good friend at a midas up the street wholl do it for $200 if i supply the parts, that sounds like a good price to never have to deal with this shop again. they said id have to replace the rear hub as well as the bearings, but i am having trouble locating this hub on the internet, any ideas other than local junkyards?

hey guys, i was investigating a squeak on my '76 280z that was coming from my left rear wheel, i thought it was just a u-joint, but when i lifted the car and put it into drive, i found that the rear wheel wobbles back and fourth about half an inch in either direction, it pulls my rear disc brake caliper back and fourth along with the disc and tire, causing the squeak. but the axle half-shafts seem to be spinning right on target. i did recently take the rear strut/a-arm assembly to a shop to have them press in new bearings, replace the spindle pin and put the new a-arm bushings on for me. ive already had to take it back to these overcharging idiots as they put my a-arms on in different directions and screwed up one of the inner bushings. is it possible they ruined the stub axle/ wheel bearing assembly as well? also, heres the other thread i posted before, pointing out their confusion about the a-arms http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136885&highlight=replacing+rear+wheel+bearings

haha, thanks for all your help, guys. the shop fixed the control arm and im probably gonna go pick that up today. needless to say, i will never go to that shop again. i knew that long before this post. luckily, i am now a little more aware of odd designs like that in the z. and hopefully this little turbo conversion will go a little more smoothly.

i understand, i figured it was something really simple. but my pessimism forced me to believe they destroyed one of my control arms removing the pin and got one from the wrong side at a junkyard. so if what i understand is correct, i need to remove the spindle pin and just simply flip it vertically so the indentation for the sway bar is facing up? thank god i told the guy to put lots of anti-seize on the pin. itll at least make things easier for him. thanks, im glad i made your day AND my problem could be fixed.

i am in the middle of a rear suspension rebuild with a rear disc brake conversion. i have thoroughly researched the work involved, mostly through this guide. however, the rear wheel bearings needed replacing, a job that i simply was not able to do. i took it to a shop who we refer to customers whose work we arent equipped to do. these guys overcharged me from the start, nearly $400 just to do all wheel bearings and upper control arm bushings. they also apparently had to remove the spindle pin to do the wheel bearings. unfourtunetly, on the bushings they neglected to use grease or remove any rust and one of the bushing sleeves was badly seized on the control arm. i returned it, they greased it and fixed the bushing, and for the inconvenience, i guess, offered to install my new pins for free, and this brings us to my next problem. where you can see my feet there would be closer to the front of the car. the guy with the brake drum and brake line still attached fits correctly. note the opposite curvatures of the control arm, and it would seem that they put the control arm on upside down, however, the indentations there for the sway bar are both in the correct, downward position. i have to say guys, im stumped. ive searched and searched for someone who had a similar problem and ive come up with nothing but empty leads. all your guy's help would be awesome.

im no expert, but im pretty sure your alternator needs to be hooked up for your engine to start.

hey guys, having a bit of a problem with my oil pump/drive assembley, im pretty sure i didnt set TDC right when i installed the new oil pump, ive corrected TDC now and im just wondering if i absoluteley have to pull the oil pump to reset the drive or if i can just switch around the wires on the distributor so the position that the dist. is at on at TDC is wired to the no. 1 spark plug? thanks.

pyro's reply in the other thread answered my question. now i have a good idea of the parts i will need. thanks to all of you - especially pyro. and olderthanme, if i find pyros set up is going to be too costly, ill be in touch.

im about a day away from getting my 76' 280z ready for the road, and now i feel its time to start thinking about choosing what kind of turbo swap i want to do. ive already decided on the block, a 280zxt with the p90 head. im thinking about swapping the stock tranny for the 240sx. megasquirt ecu as well. but what really has me stumped is the turbo/intercooler choice. i assume this is the hardest part since its such a critical part, and with so many options. i want to go with the t03/04, the same one in a galant vr-4 and also i believe on the eclipse. but after talking to my bro, whos built and loved his own LT1 twin turbo datsun and built up 2 turbo cars so far, he said id have alot of problems with that set up, im shooting for 300 hp at the wheels (or flywheel, if its going to be alot more practical) i dont want to do the turbodeisel conversion, i really dont want a turbo that dosent spool till 5k. and i doubt the stock turbo could put up that kind of power. ive searched the forums and found nothing about the t03/04s. thoughts?

im looking into swapping out my stock N/A L6 in my 1976 280z for a turbo engine, the 280zxt swap is the easiest, cheapest option. but that single OHC 12 valve L6 just sounds like crap. does anyone know about a 300zx turbo swap? the 24 valve (DOHC?) v6 seems like it can just make so much more power. what kind of parts would i have to get to adapt that motor into the older car? what are some upgrade options to the 300zx motor? thanks.