[Weber DCNF on a DGV mount]

To answer your question, the DGV and the DCNF share a very similair bolt patter but not the same. The good news is you can fit them in one of two ways. First if you don't car about hood clearence, than you can use an adapter that will fit one bolt pattern to the other. The bad news on that is that you will gain about 2 inches in height, well bad for hood clearence, good news for out of the hole performance. So you will need to SawZall a hole for each carb or do some type of cut and hack job to make them fit. But if you do the hack job you can make some nice air intake scoops on the hood to feed each carb or do an air box or something like that. That would be cool and original.

 

The second option is to make an adapter plate out of... oh lets say 3/8 inch aluminium plate stock. You are no longer looking at hood clearence issues but you will need to port your Cannon/TWM adapater manifolds to make it work at the base of the carb. If you look at the adapter manidold it is shaped to fit the two difference sized butterflies and they are much smaller 32 mm on the small side vs. as you stated 44 mm. That is a little over a cenitmeter not much but definetly a bit of material to remove. And you need to make sure you get the bores centered in the opening so as to not hender performance. A bit of planning but it can be done.

 

So, yes you can mount them; just depends on how far you want to take this project. Happy motoring, Mike.

 

P.S. I do like the Peirce injection throttle bodies. Get three of those with Megasquirt that too would be cool.

[Searched And Searched Is There Anything To Gain Polishing Tripple Webbers]

What venue are you planning to run the car in? Street Strip or other? If you use a oil cooler or automatic tranmission cooler, mount it infront of the other coolers your using, and run the fuel through it before the carbs this can cool the fuel before it is feed to the carbs. The unused cooler fuel can return to the tank, helping to keep the tank cooler.

 

While I've mentioned it, Z's are the worst design for gas tank temps, all the engine heat and exhaust pipe heat hits the fuel tank dead on...through the tranny tunnel. Relocating the fuel tank to a higher point in the car could also eleminate this condition of heating the fuel in the tank. I like a cool can before the carbs to help combat this, but who drives around with a ice chest full of ice slurry and a aluminium coil running though it anyway.

 

A fuel cooler, fuel cold can (when needed at the strip), free flowing return fuel line, heat shield between the carbs and exhaust, thermal wrapped exhaust manifold, and cold air induciton plumbing, all used in conjuction with each other would help keep under hood temps low and intake charge cold.

 

Don't know how safe or legal that would be for the street though.

Mike

[Searched And Searched Is There Anything To Gain Polishing Tripple Webbers]

IAT's not familiar with this term...I don't think. What is it.

[77 modified fuel system ?'s]

K.I.S.S., Keep It Simple Stupid. Words to live by. Yes, changing one thing at a time and measure the effects is a very effective way to trouble shoot...but very time consuming. Easy stuff first is also a good ideology.

 

If your fuel pump is the stock version, you may not be able to get more than that due to age and leaking check valves. I don't know if they still offer a rebuild kit for those old pumps. I need one for a pump I have on the shielf that has a hole in the diaphram.

 

That is the one bad thing about triples, if you start to play with the tuning parts everthing is in quantities of six. I've been suggesting it for years that triple carb guys ban together and "Group Buy" a large selection of parts and then when they have there stuff dialed in they "buy out" the parts from the group. Check out a local club, if you already haven't, and see if they offer something like this. Also clubs are an excellent source for guys that have gone down the road before you; so they have already made all the "stupid mistakes":cuss:, this would help in diagnozing some issues and pehaps give you some advice in other areas besides your triples, just a suggestion. Keep us posted, happy trails Mike

[77 modified fuel system ?'s]

You have multiple issues I see why no one was brave enough to tackle this one. First off you need to find what is causing pressure, that is a very bad thing; very, very bad. Your tank should be placed in a vacuum condition not pressureization, if all is normal...no! This does not mean you should have 30 in of vacuum only that as you are drawing fuel out is a slight vacuum condition should or could exist. You can disconnect the power wires form the electronic pump to see if the problem continues, as it sounds you are leaning on that. I can't see how that would cuase any issues but try it and see what happens.

 

Are you 100% sure you only have 3 PSI from the fuel pump? I would gain to venture you have more presure and your guage is skewed a bit. The carb dieing problem may be related to the tank over pressureization, and maybe due to excessive fuel not starving. Pumping the throttle should surge the accelerator pump circuit in the carbs and that would be adding more fuel, thus it loads and dies faster due to fuel being added at a faster rate.

 

Do you have a chilton book or factory service maual? If not, "invest" in one, your not "buying" one, your "investing" in one like a house or stocks. Re-plumb all your hoses to location that are in the manual to like locations in your existing set up. Example; all things that hook to the intake manifold "vacuum side", that is behind the thorttle body, should hook to the same location on your triple manifold, behind the throttle blades. All things that are under the air filter should be moved to the same location, under the air cleaner. You may need to add air cleaners you didn't mention if you were running them or not. Be advised that if your hooking something up to one runner only, like you break booster and there is a leak in the hose or plumbing somewhere, than that cylinder will run lean, not that it could run lean it WILL run lean. That sets the stage for major catastrophic engine damage...which is never fun for anyone...except the guy you pay to rebuild another engine. Keep us posted.

[Carb Vs. EFI]

Ok I know this subject has been malled over for years, but my brother (ole doc martin) sent this to me...poking the bear with a stick as it were. He is all about EFI, I like the carb personally. Nice read, but nothing concrete. As always, he said, she said...go here.

 

http://carcraft.com/techarticles/849/index.html

 

I like this quote best, sums it up nicely.

 

"Warren Johnson: Properly tuned, carburetors make more peak power than EFI in a Pro Stock engine. A carb’s pressure differential atomizes the gas a lot better than spraying fuel through an orifice. But EFI has a broader powerband and superior cylinder-to-cylinder fuel distribution. The 1,100- to 1,300-cfm dual carbs are good only over a narrow range, about 1,500 rpm at most. EFI performs well over 2,000 rpm or more. On average, if optimized, both systems perform about the same as far as how fast you get down the track. However, the EFI system is much easier to tune than a carburetor."

 

For those that don't know Warren Johnson a.k.a. "The Professor" is a long time NHRA Pro-Stock drag racing veteran. He knows his way around a carb. He is one of my personal HERO's!

[Datsun Patches]

Just to let ya' know, I bought mine off ebay at the suggestion of MAT73GNZ and they are real quality items. Thanks for the tip.

[Datsun Patches]

I am interested in:

1 X REAR (large)

2 X FRONT (small)

Mike

[I've got some new toys... (triple mikunis, etc.)]

Hey all, are the carbs with the fuel inlet on the side of the carb old style or new style? I've got a set of 44's that I'm rebuilding for a winter project and hope to unvail them in the spring. They have the inlet on the top. I know squat about Mikuni carbs, this is the first Mikuni set up I've worked on. Question, any chance you sell jets and such, I'll need to tune them sooner or later? Very nice grab bag of parts though.

Mike

[removing stub axels***HELP***]

Hey, we got some real good positive and correct info here. Say tool man quicker240 what would a "hub shark" cost a guy?

Mike

[removing stub axels***HELP***]

Below is a cut and paste step-by-step on rear axles that I've been handing out for a few years. If your not getting any success with the slide hammer or center punch with a hand driver method I'd remove the axle housing with transverse link and shock tower and spring and have a machinest press them out. This is the lowest risk method. After all the car isn't operational without the axle shafts so what's a few more hours or down time. You will need to only blead the brakes lines on install, else the process isn't that much more difficult. Mike

 

Rear stub axle tidbits:

To remove the rear axles take the car to a qualified mechanic with the tools and equipment to do the job right. For the rest of you who want to do this in your garage on the weekend do this.

 

Get your tools together: first get a 36" long 1" I.D. 1 5/16 O.D. sch 40 pipe and then get some flat stock steel 1"X1/2"X36" drill two 12.5mm holes or 1/2" (it doesn't have to be a precision bore) spaced 4 1/2" center to center or 3 1/4". Then buy thread lock, a 3/4" breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket, 1/2" center punch and 40 oz. hand driver. Next a tire bar 21mm or 13/16" and two 14mm combo wrenches. You should have needle nose pliers plus and minus screw sticks and other common tools. Most important, a service manual like Hayes or Chilton for general information.

 

Set the e-brake and jack the car and support it safely then remove the tires. Disengage the e-brake and remove the four half shaft bolts from the hub, removal of the four bolts from the third member is not required but is recommended for ease of accessibility. They are a shoulder bolt 14mm on both ends. Then the axle nut will be visible looking from the third member towards the wheel hub. (It is best to remove the A arm with strut tower and take it to a qualified machinist and have him remove the nut.) It is best to remove the crimp or bend it back but this can be more difficult than just removeing the bolt with the crimps in place. Either method you risk potentially damagings parts. Bolt the flat stock to the hub using the wheel huts and brace it against the car or the ground. Put the breaker bar with pipe and socket on the nut. Send the children to the neighbors house, their ears will be the better for it and now rotate the nut, or at least...try. The nut is crimped on so this can be tough sometimes and this is where most possible damage can occur. Once the nut is removed the half shaft flange should slide off, some don't, but don't worry it will. (It is better to remove the A arm and strut tower, take it to a qualified machinist and press the axle out.) Chilton recommends using a slide hammer and center hub puller. I use the center punch and place it in the dimple of the shaft and with the hand driver strike the punch with firm square blows. *DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS!!!* Glancing blows may cause damage here and a lot of hassle. The axle will take a few good blows but it will start to move. There is a whole pile of goodies to loose like two seals, two bearings and a center spacer inside the hub so be careful and don't loose any of it.

 

Now is a good time to replace bearings and seals.

 

On reassemble it is best to use new nuts, but if you use the old ones run a die or rethread tool through it, and on the axle shaft can't hurt either. Use the red thread lock on the nut to ensure it doesn't back off and make sure you tighten the $&!# out of it! I torque on the high side of the recommended 181-239 ft. lbs. (actually I go to 250).

 

To prepare a axle shaft to recieve a nut that is not in 100% good condition. First clean the shaft off the car and on the bench with a good bench grinder, or 4 inch hand grinder and a wire wheel or abrasive pad wheel to remove any bad areas on the shaft end, not the bearing seat only the threads. Next get a good rethread tool, M 20 X 1.50. I use one from my Snap-on set that I bought on-line RD-20. Next install the nut over the shaft and turn. I like to use tap-magic to help the tool glide over the threads. Unlike a die, the rethread tool or thread restore tool will cram the remaining metal back into shape to help revitalize the old threads. With a rethread tool, if the metal will not comform back to shape the tool will remove it and leave clean threads. A die will cut new threads in any metal that is there, that is the key, no metal no threads, their is a difference. This is only a fix to the issue of removing a nut that had not been properly prepaired before de-installation. Am I am the worst person for not preparing the nut before removal. Best of luck.

[4-barrel intake: THE FACTS]

I think the point missed here concerning manifold issues only, is that the two version of 4bbl that I have run and seen for the Z car is that, the first is a plenum (Clifford research) the second is a dual plane, log style (Bob Sharps original design) and later a true dual plane, log style (AZCars). They are not the same and do not perform in the same way. In a plenum style the air is only restricted at the runners. The plenum style, the runners are all the exact same length and diameter! Go here and look at the construction of this manifold, http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/ (Nice work!) it is a plenum style due to the box that will be installed over the intake horns. This is how all plenums should be designed. But I've yet to see another for a Z car like this. The other dual plane style has a smoother flow pattern and here the runners too are the same length and diameter, the last runner (cyl one and six) the log turns and ends at the runner, or becomes the runner if you so would like to look at it. This is a good design because the runners snake off the log and flow very smoothely into the runners. The SU manifold for the Z car is designed like this and performs very well.

 

If you want to test exhuast gas temperatures on each cylinder (EGT) use a lazer temp gun, Fluke makes one for about 100 bucks. This will test surface temps only but is a good easy to use tool. Point at the metal base of each plug, not the cylinder head. Make sure the plug holes are clean and the plugs are in NEW condition, and use some plug thread goo for good, equal thremal transfer. This is as easy as you can get for EGT testing. I don't beleive that cylinder distribution exists on these two manifolds. Or even the SU manifold eventhough the 2nd and 5th runner lengths are shorter.

 

A better test would be to buy six "coulor tuners" and you can see the color difference in each hole and compare for cylinder distribution. Use six temp probes in the hole for the smog pump injectors and test for EGT there. I'm just too cheap to purchsae this quantity of equipment. But if anyone has one for loan or items for sale at a cheap price, contact me.

 

I have seen other manufactures that take a runner off each cyl. and run it to the carb. That type of manifold would not yeild distribuiton issues with A/F ratios but the different length runners do affect the engine in negative ways. After the butterfly the A/F ratio is not changed unless negative things happen like puddling, which is a sign of other problems. As long as the runner diameter and length does not change from cylinder to cylinder it will not affect the engine dynamics.

 

I've run them all and I like the trippple's best BUT the 4bbl has some good design manifolds that perform well. Mostly becuase the people that designed them and there demand for performance.

 

I'd like to see that custom intake linked above have a plenum with a 4bbl on it or even a few sidedraft SU's. It would be so easy to change the plenum box and play around with intake combinations with that custom manifold. Gets a guy thinking...Hhhmmmmmm.

Mike

[4-barrel intake: THE FACTS]

Someone should contact Ken Jones at Sport Z magazine. He has access to a Dyno and has done several articles about perfromance related issues and he has posted his dyno results in Sport Z mag. The summer issue 2004 he states he is going to be doing some projects on this 280 Z, one of which is a supercharger mounted on a Clifford manifold. The other upcomming project is a Weber Trippple 40 set up on his 3.1L. Before he pulls the 3.1L out and does his supercharger have HIM do some testing with a Bob Sharp (AZCar) manifold and his Clifford Research manifold and his Trippple set up; which he says he is already going to published. I know he has already tested the SU set up on his 3.1L in back issues of the publication he writes for and was addressing using a larger carb from a Jag. Would be nice to see him package the results on all the testing he has done for a ongoing issue to issue "Induction Challenge". This would be nice to see.

 

Dave, I posted my results of the 4bbl, "the 4bbl may give the driver the perception of more power due to the different power bands of the induction", and " the 4bbl doesn't take up that much space it is very compact. Ease of maintanence, yes parts are more readibly available at autoparts stores and such; ask your local parts guy for SU needles and nozzles or even needle valves." Just no MPG numbers to state.

Mike

[4-barrel intake: THE FACTS]

Dave, I under stand you point and you reasons for the post. I have been preaching for years about the options available. As I've stated there is a stigma that follows the 4bbl. Most folks make claims about hood cleanances and such not ever running one or seen one upclose. I've run them all, I've tried to be impartial not bash or back up anyone or claim unless I can prove it. Like I've said before in other posts I've bought stuff from you in the past and have recommend you for parts to select personel. Go here and read the first sentence and then scoll down and read the last sentence.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/496289/6

 

I think that eveyone who reads these recent threads about 4bbls will see that the most important thing here is information about the facts. I feel we have made some positive ground in the discussion about the 4bbl and perhaps posted some arguments both for and against the 4bbl. After all this site is dedicated to the HybridZ.

 

Plainswolf, what kind of MPG numbers have you experienced? Cold weather starts are a true testiment to any induction. I grew up in Idaho and anyone who has tried to start an engine (any engine; tractor, car truck, etc) at 30 below zero knows that those are the hardest conditons possible...especially for a street machine/daily driver. My Z has issues at 40 degrees above zero.

Mike...as Adam Corolla says, "Good times."

[4-barrel intake: THE FACTS]

I've been thinking all day about this. We Z guys should pressure not each other for facts but others with the resources to get things done. We should have an independent organization do a "Induction Challenge" and post the result for all to see. It would have to be someone impartial and knowledgable about Z cars and the different inducitons. We would need to use the same car and have a team organize it all. I'm no promotor just a Z guy looking for fact, what ever the facts are. Get "Sport Z" magizine to set up camp in Arizona (or someother location) and do some dyno pulls using a stock L-28 and the different inducitons. Sport Z can post the results over several issues keeping the sales up and getting the information out that we Z guys would like to see. It is Sport Z after all and we are discussing Z sport cars. I could see that many parties would like to see this, AZCar, Ztherapy, Sport Z, Clifford Research, Weber, Cannon, and TWM. All of who have a stake in the market for aftermarket Z enthusiests.

 

Dave, I see what your specific addressing about throttle response. I would not agree that the 4bbl is the only induciton with good pep on the throttle. Any hesitation, backfire, or other induciton related problem would need to be sorted out and would suggest a problem. The 4bbl may give the driver the perception of more power due to the different power bands of the induction, but the Dyno would varify beyond arguement. I'm not pro SU or 4bbl or trippple or even EFI but lets see some raw data on all of them, that is my only point. I agree tuning trippples for ANY purpose is a ball of wax. Cost goes up (everthing is in sixes, jets, etubes, etc.) and so does the skill level. Much more involved than a single downdraft or dual SU's.

Let's get Sport Z involved.

Mike

[4-barrel intake: THE FACTS]

Dave,

Unfortunately I have no plans to visit the Arizona area anytime soon, I just got back from Lake Havisu, nice body of water, liked the pasties on the girl in Havisu City. Would you be inclined to some other options? I have the other two set ups as stated but the Bob Sharp manifold I sold months ago (wish I had that back now!). Also are we discussing a stock L-24, L-26, or L-28, or a modified engine. If you want to go stock that I would have to assemble a stocker and that wouldn't be available until the end of summer or early winter. I'm not making a challange I'm just curious as to what the different inducitons actually look like on a Dyno. It would be best to use one car and only change the induction, I think everyone can agree to that. I can't recall anyone who has done this type of testing and if so would be nice if they would share the numbers with the rest of us.

 

A few questions Dave, you say "better throttle response and drivability", what are you angleing at here?

 

I'll address the other points as you stated cleanliness, I say personal perception, trippples are the cleanest. But the 4bbl doesn't take up that much space it is very compact. Ease of maintanence, yes parts are more readibly available at autoparts stores and such; ask your local parts guy for SU needles and nozzles or even needle valves. Gas milage, I can't comment on that but anything driven concervitily can be a fuel saver, also foot to floor=bad MPG numbers.

 

I think we are comparing apples to oranges here but the real issue would be performance. And performance is what most folks are interested in anyway...Dyno tyme.

Mike

[4-barrel intake: THE FACTS]

I've got a Clifford research manifold and a stock set of 1970 bell top SU's, I used to have a Bob Sharp manifold but I sold it (what was I thinking). I'd be inclined to test my set ups on a Dyno for results BUT I have two 4bbls that are not 390 CFM Holley and only one is in good runable conditon. Junk yard carb as it were. If someone has a Bob Sharp manifold and 390 Holley out of the box it would make for a good comparison. Three inducitons, three dyno runs, all here in Sacramento Ca. 75 feet above sea level. That should set the record strieght. First I got to get my old heap off the jack stands.

 

We could even toss in some Dellorto vs. Weber vs. Mikuni comparisons on a TWM vs. Cannon vs. Mikuni manifolds.

 

Mike

[Go to Four Barrell or stay with SU's?]

Hey mulletz,

Here is another link to a recent descussion on the SU's issue. This is SU's vs. Trippple but the discussion is quality never the less.

 

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=33732

 

Mike.

[4-barrel intake: THE FACTS]

Norm may be running 12's but have you seen his pics of the tranny? I have, that guy is hard on parts. Not bashing, but I'd like to drive my car home from the drag strip. I guess you gotta break a few eggs to make an omlette. Would be nice to see some dyno numbers same day of 4bbl and SU's on same engine. Dyno's don't lye.

Mike:D

[240SX throttle body]

Dave, I've bought stuff from you in the past, one question, does this spacer have the port on the top for the air tap thingy that is on the stock TB unit?

Mike

[Go to Four Barrell or stay with SU's?]

Dave makes some valid point. I am not a master mechanic but do have some years of experience in Z car related inducitons (one or two). I like the SU as it is original equipment; nice to keep it in the family so to speak. I like the 4 bbl good performer, but I like the Trippple set up best. But leave the third out as this topic is about the first two.

 

SU's lack top end, I had issuses feeding my engine with enough air and fuel above 5000 RPM's to keep the engine happy. I have pics of two exhaust valves to back this claim up. I don't have the head gasket anymore and I didn't take pics of it but it too was no longer usable. Go here to view the valves.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/496289/2

 

The SU's are a great daily driver carb and are easy to tune. Performance, fuel ecomony, and reliability are all in the pro column for SU. For "stock" carbs on 1970-72, performancs is good, my fuel economy was in the neighborhood of 20 mpg (driven conservitely) and once tuned (nut on bottom and balanced front to rear and other misc. points of tuning) they were a good reliable daily driver carb. Con is performance above 5000, parts, wear, age, and special tools. Parts are still available though "aftermarket sources" (I used to get parts from Nissan years ago, don't know if they are still available now). Wear is not an issue with Ztherapy SU's (I don't own any so this is what I've read from customers) and age is always going to be a factor with 30 year old hard parts. If your home tuning you need a flow guage to balance the carbs or they will not run correctly.

 

The 4bbl in my experience was never a fuel saver (foot to floor issues), I have no read MPG number, I never used them for daily driver use. They required more carb knowledge (if you tinkered with with jet sizes and such) and installation was not as "bolt-on" as the SU's (you have to fab linkage or a cable set up to some degree and figure out what goes where, Dave covered most of these issues in his post). They are reliable but carb choice is an issue and people tend to thing "big=good!" And junk yard parts are just that, junk yard parts. You may find a mint diamond or you may find a worn out peace of junk that needs complete teardown and cleaning just to see what shape the part is actually in (been there!). However, they use new parts (if bought new) and parts are available at every autopart store from San Diego to Boston. Everyone, including there brother, knows something about downdrafts so you have a good change that you know someone that actually knows something about tuning.

 

I think the comment about Mixture distribution is not correct. The real issue is in the length of runners. The Bob Sharp manifold (AZCar is the same) and the Clifford Research manifold have solved this. The Bob Sharp manifold feeds like a dual plane Log style while the CR manifold feeds like a Plenum. The difference is the Bob Sharp manifold will give good low end power while a Plenum will give better top end, these are how the characteristis of the design work in general. I think the issue of mixture distribution first stated years ago when someone made the comment about the SU manifold and how it has different length runners. And yes Nissan did a good job of not using a Plenum or Log style to make a compact dual set up to feed 6 holes. Nissan compared to European cars have been using the SU style carb for years with great success on 4 banger sports cars. But the Nissan version has different lengths in all 3 runners, front and back carb respectily, while a four hole will not have this use (Nissan should have used three carbs to eliminate this issue altogether). So anywy, the 2nd and 5th cyl. have shorter runners, one and six feed off of two and five and three and four have dedicated runners. This will affect the engine, to such a degree I don't think you could detect it unless you used sensitve diagnostic equipement. The bigger issue I think is the pulse you generate from the SU (and Tripples) vs. the 4bbl with a constant draw.

 

Bottom line if I was to recommend to anyone an induction, I'd tell that person to open there wallet and let the dead presidents decide. Ztherapy may have a good product but at what cost? The 4bbl may be an economical investment for all new hardware but there not original equipement. If the choice was mine, and I'm old school so no computers under the hood for me, I'd use a Trippple carb set up. Even though EFI is "The Wave of The Future" and more performance can be gained easier. I feel nothing looks meaner than three carbs with individual runners. I say the "all original" guys can view my tail pipe, and the Holley crowd can hang out with there V-8 buddies. But that's just me.

Mike

[Go to Four Barrell or stay with SU's?]

Here is a link to a discussion on this very topic.

 

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=23727&highlight=

 

Mike

[SEE IF YOU CAN FIGURE OUT THIS FUEL PRESSURE QUESTION]

Yes, bubbles in the return line going into the bucket would suggest air in the fuel lines. Do the same bucket test but only run the pump leave the car engine off. This will make a conditon where no fuel is removed from the lines. If you duplicate the same results than I would think there is residual air in the fuel lines. The pump is prossibly cavitating and thus drop in fuel pressure and bubbles in the return line. The Holley Blue pump is a rotoray vien pump and requires fuel to seal the viens to provide fuel flow and pressure. This is also a good test to see just how well your needles and seats are sealing. If the fuel floods the bowls than the needle and seats are worn and/or the pressure is excessive (you did say nice low pressure @ 3.5). This test is good to check the fuel bowl level aswell. Mike

[Nice article in N.D.]

National Dragster, May7, 2004, issue number 15 in the "Racing Technology" section pages 85-87, "Manifold Destiny-Part 2" written by Evan J. Smith; has a further discussion on manifold design. Nothing I haven't seen in books and from listening to old folks chat but it is a good breif summery. If nothing more it should get people asking questions next time they go into their local speed shop. I think it's an attribute for such publications to discuss issues like this as it is one of the most mis-understood parts of the engine. Happy trails.

Mike

[ebay long block states new but is it ?]

Here is my take on it. The cylinder head looks in good condition but without a real examination can't make a statement to that. Ask for pics of the intake and exhaust ports. If he is willing to get them to you he would be an excellent ebayer. Looking in the pics the spark plug holes don''t look anywhere near new. They appear to have some engine gunk on the outside of the holes. I'm sure the engine has been gone through at some point but a good look at the valves, combustion chamber and exhaust ports will get you undisputable evidence.

 

I had an old grubby head cleaned by my local machinest that was fully assembled, the thing looked like brand new when I got it back. Every part on it was shiney and cleaned, even the back of the valves. The only way you could tell it was used was the wip pattern on the cam and the cam followers, and the valve seats and contact area on the vavles.

 

Mike