brokebolt
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Posts posted by brokebolt
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I'll add my $0.02. I like what John C. states about not mixing and matching. My brothers '75 280Z had this and the rear bounced something feirce on hard bumps (also stock shocks). I currently am using a soft 225 front and 200 rear on 5 way Tokico Illuminas. Ok for street on 1 and nice performance on 5. My tires are too splashy on 5 I really need a stiffer sidewall.
To answer you last post higher spring rate in lbs means stiffer. 225 lbs. is softer than 400 lbs which is harder. A softer spring will offer a softer more forgiving ride while a harder spring will not be as "road freindly". I personally like the combo I'm running and I'm 99% on street, well really it's back hick country roads with lots of pot holes and road kill. See more old beat up farm trucks than sport cars on the back roads. What can I say I live in a cow town.
Mike
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I've heard talk but not heard of anyone that has done this type of mod. Yes when you get into this level of brake upgrade you do need to incorporate an aftermarket proportioning valve. ALso if your looking to keep your ebrake functional you'll need to adddress that as well. Seen a cool spot in Drive magazine that has a ebrake assembly on the drive line. That would be ideal for the Z differential in my opinion.
I would suggest if your considering doing this type of mod looking into doing a full upgrade with a lighter and *cheaper* aluminum unit. Willwood has good stuff and many aftermarket suppliers (some post on this site) can provide help and parts. You can also get everything you need from sprint car supply places. Their are both pro's and con's to this route. But you can get a weld-on bracket for a Wilwood caliper and modify it to fit your rear hub bolt pattern with just about as much headache as doing a hub bracket from sctatch.
The real reason for doing the Nissan stock parts rear disk conversion is cost. Most junk yards usually have a few donor cars (Nissan Maxima's and 280 ZX's, Toyota trucks, etc.) that you can get the hub brackets from relatively cheap and a few other cars you can get other goodies from. As far as performance on stock disk vs. stock drum, I don't see that much difference IF the drums are well maintained. If you compare stock disk to aftermarket disks; well that isn't even a far comparison, larger diameter rotors and monster calipers aren't even in the same ball park. Disks require less effort to maintain and that adds to the appeal. Remember I'm a cheap SOB so if I can get a set of junk yard calipers for $50.00, rotors for $40.00 and brackets, dust shields and misc hardware for another $40.00 I'm styling; vs. $100.00-$150.00 per caliper remanufactured or new aftermarket. Street machine with only a few hard stops in one day with $3500.00 worth of brakes-in my opionion not money well spent. For a weekend worrior racer-worth every penny.
Mike
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I think the last time I seen a set of aftermarket brackets they were in the $150.00 neighborhood. Occasionally I have seen them listed online on auciton sites but that is far away and rare. To make a set of custom brackets they should run about $80.00 to $100.00 if you pay someone else to do the work for you. I've seen pictures of a few garage aftermarket brackets on this site that were made solely of flat stock. Very inventive and looked real nice for a guy playing around with his shiny new welder. Which ever route you go you will need to get the measurements to the guy (or gal) that is doing the work for you. That really is the secret of the bracket. Unfortunity I don't recall off hand what and of the needed measurements are. I'll check my notes and see if I have anything I can pass along. Oh by the way my notes are written on a portable table with small sharpie marks. Not very efficient but maybe some day I'll get them all transposed on to paper!!!
Still better than the guy I work with that uses his pant leg!!! Mike
Poking around here I came accross this:
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22923&highlight=rear+brakes
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Yes look at the article, but to answer your question...Direct bolt on using vented rotors and rotor spacer. Same as S12W EXCEPT it is phisically larger, has larger pistons (1mm diameter if I recall) and uses similiar pad. If you use the S13WB pads you will need to grind off the inboard wear sensor. This sensor is nothing more than a section of steal that protruds out and has a rivited spring metal to touch the rotor when the pads wear down and make the noise we have all heard...SSQQQUUEEEEELLLL. If you use the S12W pads, they fit without mods.
Mike
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Your right on the post being clear as mud. Port C uses the Rear 240SX calipers, infact all the parts for this conversion are from the rear of each respective donor car. The port is truely custom. You need a stock Front Wheel Drive Maxima donor car (junk yards are filled with them), remove the rear disk and caliper assembly. Toss that junk aside, now you will see the stamped stock hub bracket and dust shield. You will need to bore them out to 89 mm (if I recall) and cut the dog ears off and have them rewelded for the correct offset. Might be easier and cheaper if you don't have equipment to do such work, to buy a set of aftermarket aluminum brackets. But when your a cheap SOB like me you find every way to save a nickel. I'm thnking about making my own socks but that is another story.
Personnally I would suggest for the do-it-your-selfer weekend warrior to use the Maxima bracket from Port D or even Port E. Port D has better rear calipers and uses the EXACT same pads as Port C. Port E uses the bulky calipers also used on the 1979-81 280ZX with the smaller pads and large offset rotor.
As for the e-brake extension, it is mealy a section of flat stock with two hole drilled in it. Get one stick of 36" X 1†X 5/32" mild steel flat stock at you local hardware store (1/8" may be easier to find), cut two sticks that measure 2" X 1" X 5/32†and drill two holes to accommodate the stock e-brake U-shaped bracket and pin. Add a second pin which is needed for the caliper. Holes may be about 1 1/2" apart or so. Not rocket science, simple fabricate that anyone with a small steel ruler, a hacksaw, a small grinder (bench or hand held) and a drill with bits can make in about an hour (if your slow at fabricating stuff). It is cheap enough so if you mess up the first pair, you still have 34" left to play with.
Lots of info to take in. Keep the questions comming, I'll try to clarify.
Mike
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Wheel clearance it's easy to determine:
First you need to measure the inset of the wheel caliper area (as I call it). This is the area of the wheel where the caliper exists when the wheel is bolted onto the hub. Using a small steel ruler, lay the ruler over the backside of the wheel on the hub area. Using a second steel ruler measure the distance from the first ruler to the wheel. Now use the Port listing you can see what depth over stock is required. (I've done the last step for you and you can now see the depth that would be required to run the specific caliper):
S12W = 20 mm
S13WB = 28 mm
S12+8 solid rotor = 8 mm
S12+8 vented rotor = 20 mm
Wheel caliper area depth (the measurement you made on your wheels) minus caliper protrusion (the caliculated number I listed above) equals wheel to caliper clearance.
I'm running older than dirt appliance wheels and they will not fit a S12W without modifying the caliper or wheel. S13WB is almost out of the question for my application but the solid rotor version of S12+8 almost fit with out modifying the wheel.
Mike
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One more bit of information that I need to add to my notes is the width of the rotor cut out in the caliper body. I have an extra set of S12+8's on the bench for solid rotors and the cut out measure 11mm or 7/16". Not seeing your caliper, but you described a 1/4" gap between the rotor face and the caliper body. Sounds like you have the vented rotor version of the S12+8. You may need to shim the pad that has the gap to keep the pistons from squishing out of the bore if that is the case. Or you could get the 1984-85 300ZX front vented rotor and aftermarket spacer and do a full upgrade. Mike
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Here is more information from my notes. 4X4 and V6 DO play a factor but only on the 1975-85 and 1986-88 S12+8 caliper. Those years use either a vented or solid rotor so they have different dimentions for the rotor to fit though the caliper. As long as the rotor does not rub on the rotor I see no issues. By the way FIF is Female Inverted Flare and the other stuff is 10 mm shank with 1.0mm thread pitch. The protrusion over stock is the distance of stick out of the caliper from the stock mounting location.
S12+8 Toyota 1979-85 Pickup 4X4, Solid cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 96 mm.
S12+8 Toyota 1986-88 Pickup 4X4, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 108 mm.
S12W Toyota 1988-92 Pickup 4X4 V6, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 118 mm.
S12+8 Toyota 1989-91 4-Runner 4X4, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 108 mm.
S12W Toyota 1992-95 4-Runner 4X4 V6, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 118 mm.
S13WB Toyota 1993-98 T-100 4X4, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 116 mm.
S13WB Toyota 1995-00 4-Runner 4X4 V6, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 116 mm.
Mike
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Ya, I really should have addressed the sway bar issue. I didn't not have any issues with the sway bar clearing the new joints and companion flanges. My 1973 has sway bar mounts that go under the front side of the car, under the drive line but on top of the exhaust pipes. I've only seen in pictures the sway bar that goes to the rear of the differential. I don't see why there would be clearance issues but than again I haven't seen this type of mount in person. If clearance is an issue maybe using shorter rod end linkage on the sway bar to transverse links. This would shorted the distance from the sway bar end to the transverse link. Hopfully lowering the end enough to clear the CV assy.
Again best of luck on this.
Mike
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I did the stock parts mod version. I had the same issue with the shaft not compressing enough to get them installed. Do this, unbolt the transverse link from the transverse link supports. You may need/want to do the front and rear this makes it a bit easier. Next install the correct shaft with the correst side. After everything is bolted together on the CV than bolt the transverse link supports back on to the bottom of the car.
Best of luck on the conversion.
Mike
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Hey that looks pretty cool, A lot of work though. I removed the rubber and welded in solid plate (0.5" mild steel plate) to take up the space where the rubber used to be. Haven't had any issues yet, been running them for 10 years now. Did the same on the tranny.
Mike
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Ever consider selling your stuff, or do you already do this and I am just not "in the loop". Be nice to see some pics for others to drool over (well me), I too am a bit handy with a stinger, not so much on Aluminium as what I assume your creation would be made from. Mike
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I've considered turboing my trippple Dellorto DHLA 40's. Where are you looking to get your plenum and tubo parts from? Might be better to use 44 Mikuni or 48 Dellortos but I got extra parts laying around so might make a turbo set up. Mike
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I agree that 650 is to large a carb for a stock or slighly modified in-line 6. SU's are an excellent choice for performance, reliability, fuel economy, and easy to tune. Down drafts take a bit more knowledge and parts to tune but don't discredit them. I have used every type of N/A induction and I do like the SU best for the reasons listed above. If your a quality tunner of downdrafts or know someone that is, you can get a set up for about $600.00 (last time I looked) using new parts, or online auctions sometimes sells good quality stuff at a cheaper price too. Mike
Just checked, prices are lower than I thought, $500.00 at AZCAR.
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To my knowledge (varify this with Ross C. HE is the real expert on this hub brackets!) the MM hub bracket uses the 240SX caliper and caliper hanger and the 1984-85 300ZX rear solid rotor. The 240SX/810/200SX/280ZX rear solid rotor can be used with the 810 Maxima bracket wtih the floating dust shield. The 810 Maxima hub bracket that has the screwed on dust shield uses a larger, different, caliper and it also uses a smaller brake pad. I would suggest not using the larger version caliper unless that is what you have available. No big deal which one you use but for the price of parts, might as well use the "better" of the stock parts.
If your really looking for clamping force (race or you have money to spend) see Arizona Z, he has large brakes for better stopping, never used them but they look good on this website. There are others as well as I'm sure MM (and others that frequent here) sells similiar stuff.
Mike
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Here is a link to a similiar discussion. All the way down on the first page I have listed my Port listing. Please read all the information including that on the second page as there is information posted to correct things from the first page.
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19020&highlight=
Also the 1984-85 300ZX rear rotor and any caliper (240SX or 280ZX) will not fit a 14" wheel, well non that I have seen. But the 810 Maxima hub bracket 1980-84 (not on every car) with the 280ZX/200SX/810 (810 RWD for the caliper and hanger as the FWD is different) caliper and caliper hanger will fit nicely on the 14" wheel. You need a 15" or larger wheel to fit the larger brakes.
I'm sure you could get better rear set up using WilWood or someother aftermarket caliper, but you would need to make a hub bracket or have one made. I used to make stuff like this using the 810 FWD rear hub bracket as the basic platform, so anything is possible if it can be imagined. There was a member here that made this own rear hub brackets from scratch that used the 280 caliper, and I've seen the early 280 caliper used with a custom bracket. The 810 also used this caliper to be aware of the two different rotors, calipers, and hub brackets that the 810 used. Easy to tell which one is which, one is very large and used small pads, second and better is smaller and used the larger pad, same pad as the 280ZX/200SX/810/240SX.
Best of luck, Mike.
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The 240SX rotors will not work with the MM set up for the 240SX caliper and caliper hanger (to my knowledge, contact MM for verification on this) but they will work with the 810 Maxima stock rear hub bracket. MM uses the 1984-85 300ZX N/A rear rotor. Avoid the turbo of that make and year as it is 5 X 4.5" lug not the 4 X 4.5" that the others stated here use. Mike
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Same bolt pattern as Z cars (4 X 4.5"), the 240 SX does fit. Also the 200sx four lug fits as do many other nissan four bolt rear rotors. Mike
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Motorsports Dynamic in Sacramento Ca. also sells that stuff. Look for a local super shop and tell them your interested in the import market aftermarket parts. They should be able to get the parts or tell you who they know that specializes in them.
Mike
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Go here,
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/index.html
This guy has done his homework, he hangs out here too. The tech drawing is a bit complex for the average garage mehanic but rock solid info. I've done it and like it. I do think that you can use the 1980-84 Maxima companion flange from any RWD car in place of the 280ZXT ones, but not 100% as I have only handled them and never installed them.
Mike
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Mesure the distance from the MC flange to the furthest point of the piston rod on the original MC and piston rod, than do the same on the new MC using the piston rod you intend on using. Set the length of rod same as first measurement. It doesn't matter if it is a larger unit or just a stock replacement this, procedure needs to be done on every unit you install. Mike
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Here is link to a post I've posted a while back.
http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=140795&highlight=#140795
As for this problem you face you need to readjust the piston rod that is between the MC and the Booster. The MC has a different flange thickness and the tappered cone that the piston drives is also different. Best of luck. Mike
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Yes you can swap R-200 ring and pinion gears and cariers around. The only issue is the ring gear bolt size (others do apply). Most pre-1984 stuff is 10mm bolt where as the later is 12mm, for the Z anyway. The later version of the R-200 with the short snout used different tooth count so they are not innerchangable, but you would only want to use a matched set anyway. Installation isn't as bad as one would think. Much like installing engine bearings. You need a magnetic base and dial indicator and some Dyechem or other wipe removal agent to get the ring gear mesh with the pinion gear correctly. Same stuff you would use to get a wipe pattern on the cam follower. For what you want I'm guessing your going to need bushings for the bolts. Any machinist can make those items and MM has told me they can be done. I have also heard that the ring gear can be bored and taped to the larger bolt. Mike
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Jeg's advertises them in their catalog. Can't comment on the performance thought. Summit may sell them as well, don't know for sure. Mike
Still better than the guy I work with that uses his pant leg!!! 
LSD Brace, anyone make them?
in Drivetrain
Posted
I make them or I should say I have made a few in the past. Log onto my album I have a picture there of mine. There is more time than materials making these things. I start with a stock transverse link support and make a custom unit by cutting the stock one up and welding 1" square tubing together and then bracing it wtih 1/4" plate. Over kill I'm sure but I like a nice plateform that I can mount other stuff like fuel pump, fuel filter, and maybe someday a differential cooler and pump. I've sold them for $100.00 with a core, I use the core to make the unit I sell. Not hard to make just time. And yes they do hold more fluid.
Mike