noelawinslow
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Everything posted by noelawinslow
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I'm in pursuit of either a wrecked 280zxt with a complete drive and powertrain, or an old rusted zxt of the same condition. Essentially, the engine and transmission need to work along with the turbo components. And hopefully the computer. Just seeing what people have.
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So how do you tell when it's properly adjusted? With so many options of adjustment, where can you feel confident in the lash setting? I'm sorry if I sound absurdly unaware, I just want to clear up my understanding of this piece of the engine.
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That wouldn't make sense, though. Valve lash out of spec would smack the cam against the rockers, right? Or is my understanding of valvetrains off?
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Apparently my engine has a bit hotter of a cam, and there's a little bit of valve ticking, but I just adjusted the valves and the sound prevails even when at factory recommendation. Would a hotter cam alter the required amount of valve clearance? If so, is there a trial and error method of adjusting the valves until the ticking is gone, and therefore a proper seat is found? Or am I just doing the adjustment wrong?
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Wanted - S30 NA Throttle Position Switch
noelawinslow replied to noelawinslow's topic in Parts Wanted
Part found. Thanks guys. -
I was in the middle of summer following high school graduation. I wanted a faster car, and smaller, coming out of a 1992 Cadillac Deville. My sister's fiance has been fixing and selling Z's since he was in high school, and I saw his for the first time, and it clicked with me that I really do love Z cars. It's right next to a 1981 Corvette in cars I absolutely love the body style of. I bought this car and went through hell to get it to my home, involving broken keys, the inability to drive standard, and my overall ignorance with engines. I've learned a lot and I plan on learning more. I've now had this car for about half a year.
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Wanted - S30 NA Throttle Position Switch
noelawinslow replied to noelawinslow's topic in Parts Wanted
Mountain Home, so we're still like three hours apart. :/ -
My TPS was somehow destroyed, and I'm looking to pick up one used. Not too concerned about the condition, as long as it works. I'm offering around $30 (It's three prongs and wires with a cam, I don't know why the parts stores want $70 for one.) I live in an isolated area in northern Arkansas, so I'll have to ship it. I drive a 1978 280z, 2+2 version. Naturally aspirated, IIRC turbo versions have a different TPS setting. I would be paying through PayPal.
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I burped the system and it seemed to stop the noise. Thanks, Domzs!
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wanted to know what you guys think about the color???
noelawinslow replied to 91iroc's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Where did you get that grill emblem from?! It looks so clean, do want. Never liked the badge on the hood. Also loving the louvers, I gotta say it makes me want to paint my Z even more... it looks beautiful. -
My car is a 78 2+2 280z. The car runs at proper temperature, and coolant/water mixture is at the proper level. I'm gonna check additional circuits for the blower, but the only major add-on that is electrical is my stereo, which uses stock wiring. The sound stops if I pass 3500 rpm or drop down to around 2000, and the heat comes back on, but that's where I like to keep my car at while driving.
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My heater seems intermittent. It's hard to describe, hence my inability to Google for it. When the car is on, engine not started, the blower motor will move at full speed, and when the car is on, engine running, the blower motor slows down drastically. I also have an issue with the heater intermittently running. When I drive, there's a strange sound occurring around 2500~3500 rpm, like a rapid blow off of pressure coming from somewhere under my passenger side. I can't quite figure out where to start looking because it only happens when driving, and when this sound occurs, the cabin temperature drops. This only happens when the heater is on, when I switch to AC, the sound disappears. Could anyone point me in the right direction? Are these two issues stemmed from the same source?
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Thanks for the help! I just ordered the kit, hopefully I can get it installed before the autumn fogs hit.
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Does the glue have any issues with conductivity? My grid has nearly completely faded, so if I slap those lines on where the old ones were, will the current pass through the glue? I never heard of these guys before, thanks!
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I've been calling several local shops about applying new defrost grids to the rear window of my 280. The lines have all but completely faded. According to what I understand, there are repair kits for small nicks and breaks, but I haven't seen anything for applying a whole new grid. Has anyone already done something like this?
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I found the spring, I could not believe how I missed it. Thank you, sir.
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So in my third picture, that leaf spring that connects to the wheel is part of the horn button? I can't seem to find this female blade connector anywhere. It's the stock '78 wheel, so nothing should be out of the ordinary.
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So I replaced some wiring of my steering column, but I must have missed something. The horn won't sound. And I can't seem to find any sort of button or switch to close the circuit to the horn anywhere... I used the same colors that were in place initially, so if you guys could point out the wires for the horn switch or see anything I did wrong, it'd be helpful! I did some searching already but it seems like nobody else has had this issue. I have a couple pictures below. Also, it's my first post! I've been lurking and learning from you guys for months now, and I finally bought myself a '78 280z. Thanks for such an awesome forum! If it helps any to know, I've removed the dashboard for a gauge modification (that will be going up here if it's successful! I can barely see the gauges with stock lighting) so if that is part of the horn assembly there's my answer!