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rackolamb1

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Everything posted by rackolamb1

  1. I've got one in great condition and ready to go if you are still looking. I'm located in Grand Rapids, MI. Make a fair offer and it's yours. Its from a 71.
  2. I've got a nice tank from my 71' turbo project... If you are interested, I can take some pictures...
  3. I have the R200 mustache bar and the lower mount that I had purchased for my conversion, but I ended up getting another car that already had an R200 installed. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.
  4. Changed my mind and I am now looking for all the parts to convert my 71 240z turbo setup to MAF. I'm looking for the z31 Turbo ECU, MAF and chopper wheel. Along with the pigtails if possible. If you have a complete setup or just one piece, let me know what you need for it. Will need to be shipped to 49418. Prefer paypal. Thanks.
  5. I'm looking for the ECU plugs and as much harness as possible to switch out with my 83 280zxt ECU plugs. Should be 3 plugs that connect to the ECU. This is both a troubleshooting step for my stumbling issue, as well as I can use this when I do my Z31 MAF swap down the road. I'm trying to get my car running right for a bit before I spend the money on the full swap. If anyone out there is parting out a Z31 and wouldn't mind cutting up the harness, let me know. Thanks...
  6. Hey guys, I've got a Jacobs Electronics Mileage Master from an older project of mine that I've recently installed into my 71 240z. The engine is an 83 L28ET with stock ECU. Everything runs great, but I'm not sure how to wire this setup up to my tach. I've searched and searched and can only find info related to the MSD 6 boxes which have a tach output. My Jacobs unit does not have a tach output, so I'm stumped as to how to hook up my tach. I do have the MSD 8920 tach adapter, but I am unsure where to tie it in. Can I just use the (-) side on the coil and run that through the white wire on the adapter and then connect the red wire from the adapter to the tach? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
  7. I've got a good driver door from a 71 in great condition.. Already been stripped of glass and hardware. Willing to ship, just not sure how much it would cost. I live in Michigan, but don't worry, the door is from the south. Shoot me a PM if you are still looking.
  8. I have a new red Prothane set for the 70-73 240s. Part number: 14-2001. Came with a project car I bought, but I don't think I am going to use these for quite a while. $130.00 shipped.
  9. Hey guys, I'm looking for a hood side latch for my 240z. I sold my original hood and forgot to take the latch off for my fiberglass hood. Paypal ready to go. Let me know, Thanks...
  10. Bringing back an old thread. I did some digging and found the exact adapter needed, as I had an aftermarket temp sender with 1/8 npt threads. The following link has the M16x1.5 to 1/8 npt adapter (part number R7964), along with others, that are for electric temp senders. Price is right and it worked great for me. Hopefully this will help someone down the road. http://www.egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?Subgroup=Metric_Adapter_Bushings&Manf=All
  11. Thanks for the compliments... I do plan lowering it a little. I'm in the process of installing a 3" exhaust so I can drive it, as I'm on the tail end of a 2 year resto and L28ET swap. My plans are to drive it all this year and then do some more upgrades over the winter. For tires I'm running the Falken Azenis rt-615s. They are pretty sweet if I must say so.. Here are a couple pics of the tires on the rims.
  12. 17x9.5 with 275/40s rear and 17x9 with 255/40s front ROTA RB-Rs
  13. Quick Update: I installed the new ignitor and I now have spark. WooHoo, progress. The car barely sputtered and wouldn't. I took the plugs out and squirted in some starting fluid and it started, but died quickly. So I think my next step now is to install a fuel pressure guage and clean the injectors. When I took the plugs out they were bone dry. I'll search for a link on cleaning the injectors, as I'm sure it's been posted.. Thanks for the help. I'll post a victory post when I get it running for good.
  14. I got a new ignitor coming. I will post the results after I get it installed. Couple other questions, does the ECU need to be grounded? Could it be my FI Relay? Would the injectors click if that relay was bad? At this point I just want spark, I don't care about anything else. Thanks.
  15. I do not have a smart probe, can these be picked up for a fair price... At this point I'd like to test my ignitor and see if that is my issue. I have 3 grounds on the intake manifold so I'm pretty sure I'm good there. I also have a ground coming from the AFM harness that I have connected to the same ground as the ignitor. I really wish I had taken the old wiring out so I'd have a better idea of what goes where. Thanks for the suggestions and keep em coming.... I'm dying to drive this car.
  16. FI relay wire and ignitor are currently both hooked to 12v direct from the battery until I can get this thing fired up. I verified voltage on these during cranking and it I get 10.7v. When not cranking, I get 12.6v on these. Since I have an 83 setup, I have the 8 prong plug by the ECU. What wires do I absolutely have to have wired from this plug to get it to fire? What I have hooked up is the y/w wire coming from the ECU to the ignitor (verified it is pin#5), the yellow wire for the cold start tied to the start position power, and a black wire grounded. Am I missing anything there? Does the ECU ground itself via the chassis? If so, I just have it laying on the floorboard. Thanks...
  17. Hopefully this will help you out. http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/rackolamb1/100_3573.jpg http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/rackolamb1/100_3574.jpg
  18. I've got a 71 with what I think are the original holes in it still. 2 holes, slightly different sizes. I'll see if I can't get you the dimensions and a couple pics tonight, as I'll be in my garage.
  19. I have the b/w wire hooked up to the "on" wire coming out of the ignition switch. I've verified this more than once. When I turn the key to the "on" position, my fuel pump kicks on for 5 seconds and the light on the ECU comes on. My problem with it hooked up that way, is that when I attempt to start the engine, the "on" position loses it's voltage (0v). Once I stop cranking the voltage comes back. This is when I decided to move the b/w wire from the "on" postion and hook it straight to the battery for testing, but that didn't seem to help any. I need to verify voltage on the b/w wire with it setup this way, but didn't have a chance to do that last night like I wanted. Does the FI Relay get power from the b/w wire, or is there another wire I need to look into for that?
  20. OK, new battery and same issue. The car cranks like a mofo, but still no spark. Checked the volts during cranking and it drops to like 10.6v, which I think may be why the ECU power led turns off while cranking. I am temporarily running 12v directly from the battery for the ecu power (b/w wire), as my switched power I was running drops to 0v while cranking... What part of the ECU sends the pulse? I know it's off of pin #5. Could it be that just that part of the ECU is bad? The ECU does seem to control the fuel pump signal though, as it powers the pump for 5 seconds when it gets power. Should I pick up a used turbo ECU...
  21. Thanks for the suggestions... I've been using the battery from my 79 CJ7 just to try and get it running. It works fine on the Jeep, but it is about 8 years old. I'll have the battery tested tomorrow, or just buy a new one, as I'll need one anyway. I'll reply back with the results.
  22. So I've searched the forums for days trying to find what I need, but it seems most posts end with no resolution. My gut feel is that I may have an ECU issue (ignition board), but before spending money on a used one, I would like help in verifying this. I've dropped in an 83' L28ET engine into my 71 240z, this includes the engine, harness, coil + ignitor, ecu, etc. I've followed all the diagrams (and variations) and have verified power to the ecu via ignition switch power (on at run position), fuel pump kicks in for 5 seconds when the ecu powers up. I believe my CAS is alright as I can take the distributor out and spin it and I hear the injectors click and the fuel pump turns on. The issue I have is I get zero spark. I've verified 12volts at the coil (via the 12volt switched power to the ignitor). The pulse wire (pin 5 from the ECU) has been ran to the other post on the ignitor. I've hooked up a timing light to see if it flashes while cranking (no go), I've tried a spark plug (no go). The only thing that seems logical to me is that I'm not getting the pulse from the ECU. Unfortunately I don't think I can test this easily. I did buy a good used coil ignitor and get the same thing. I've even replaced the transistor on one of the ignitor's to see if maybe both of them could have been bad. At this point I don't know what else to check. One thing to note, is that my ecu light goes out when I crank the engine, and comes back when I stop cranking. Also, when my ecu power is run from the ignition switched power, it goes to zero volts while cranking. This didn't seem right to me, so I ran power directly to the battery and it does the same thing. I've tried so many things, that at this point it's probably a simple fix, but it feels like my brain if fried (maybe like my ECU ). Can someone help me out? Thanks...
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