TomoHawk
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Posts posted by TomoHawk
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The relay bracket has a cover, but it doesn't look lilke you can get the cover off without unmounting the whole thing. Can you just get the cover off?
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I removed the copper tubes from the dsh to the pump & radiator, and the dryer unit. Now I see a plastic bottle on the right side with what looks like vacuum hoses coming out. Can somebody identify it?
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Update....
I think the problem has resolved itself.
I was using foamy emgine cleaner before the alternator stopped working. After 1 or 2 hot days, It seems to have recitified itself.
Or, maybe while I was fumbling around all the wires & hoses, I "un-broke it."
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1978 280Z w/ factory A/C(I think)
I removed the two pipes going from the condenser (inside the car) to the cooling thing by the radiator, including the dryer, and the one going from the dash to the pump. Now, I'm not getting a charge from the alternator, and the 'discharge' light is always on.
I checked the wires going to the alternator, and it looks ok there, although my Haynes book has different colored wires, or picture is hard to see. Also looked for any broken wires and didn't see any.
If it helps, the voltmeter needle used to jump to 14 when the engine runs, now it only reads battery voltage.
Is there an attack plan I should try?
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Mine is the 78 280Z
But thanks.
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I was thinking more like the stuff under the hood and maybe some relays & wires. I plan on keeping the ducting in place, except for the (condenser?) so the heater & defogger will work. I've never used the air in my other car, so why keep it in the Z?
BTW, I was out in the Z on Sat. with the windows down, and at 30+ mph, you get some good air going through there...
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Here's what I did:
Got a plastic license bracket and glued it into the front of the front bumper with 'Goop' aka 'shoe goo.' Then I put some big cable-ties around it and the bumper. Then screwed the plate on. The glue keeps it from slipping and the cable ties keep it from blowing off.
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Mine has no shocks. It has the struts init. I suppose you mean the strut might be weak?
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My title has a space called "Conversion" on the title, what does that mean? Can you convert your car and re-title it as something else? That way you could settle some things involved with installing a car/body conversion kit like GTO or Vello Rossa, where some things need to be removed.
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Sorry, Kevin-Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen:If you need a Factory Datsun Manual; you can go to any Nissan Dealer & order your year manual on CD
Went to the Nissan dealer and he says there is NO SUCH THING. He doesn't even SELL repair manuals!
But he did give a number to call.
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It feels like the R. Fr. wheel bounces a little when turning slightly left. Mostly around 30-40 MPH. I gave the front wheel a tug and there is no play per se. What kinds of things should I check out to see if there is a problem?
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Trying to fix a stereo install from the previous owner. Only 1 rear speaker (pass. side) was hooked up. Probably becauce the driver side speaker wires couldn't be found. I tried tracing the wires (blk and blk-red) back from the speaker, but it doesn't go to the same connector. Any help on this one?
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Which components of the A/C can you remove on a 280Z with original everything, and still have it operate? As far as I know, the A/C isn't hooked into the (computer) so maybe you could disconnect the pump and remove the wiring/relay/switches?
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Can you at least take out or disconnect the wiring for the pump, etc? It might help in fixing some otherproblems by eliminating some wires.
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It's a '78 280Z...
I checked the voltage at the battery:
Switch off, engine off = 12.5V
Switch on, engine off = 12.5V
switch on, engine on = 13.8V
This all sounds normal to me. I must conclude that the voltmeter needs adjusting or is malfunctioning.
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I've been fixing the lights so far, but, what things on my '78 280Z should I be checking out or looking for in terms of suspension? I've heard a few 'Slam!" noises in the back while driving the car around and occasionally it feels like a wheel is bouncing/out of round?
Car is from Fla., and 100k miles. I started thinking that the bushings may be worn out, so the suspension is loose.
My goal is to get the car to feel solid without the "2x4 shock absorber" feeling.
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With the engine running, the voltmeter needle is always at 16V. Normal, or could the alternater be malfunctioning?
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Any suggestions on mounting a license plate on the front? Only thing I can think of is drilling a couple screw holes in the bumper.
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Who's got good manuals on the repair of the car? I have a Haynes book, but it doesn't give enough info to repair things like:
backup lights
interior lights
Even the owner's manual I got with the car doesn't correctly tell you where the air cleaner is.
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Some of the lights onmy 280 look a little dim. Could it be that the bulbs need replacing, or is the wiring getting weak?
Mostly the front turn signal lamps and the break lamps look a little dim.
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Mine had window tint film over the grid, so I ended up scraping the metal in a few places while peeling the film. I was thinking of scrubbing the grid to shine it up? Looks like there might be some corrosion on the surface.
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I used ammonia cleaner from the pharmacy. It worked better than dry, but I still had to scrape it all off with a sharp knife.
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Can You buy repairing kits or liquid or something? I don't know if mine has a cut, but wanted to know, just in case it does.
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I thought you could just reach up from underneath and pull the end of the cable or something.
Does 280Z heater use vacuum lines?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
1978 280Z original everything.
I need to take apart the heater unit to fix the (defogger flap?) and I noticed some small hoses going into the bottom of the heater controls. Are these used for something, or can I pull those out?
Also, where is the defogger flap & can I get at it easily? Isit mechanical/cable operated?
I only want the heater & defogger to work; A/C is coming out.