gnosez
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Posts posted by gnosez
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So, if I go into a speed shop I just ask for a vacumn can and pay the man? Sounds too good to be true as I dislike the idea of taking off the intake. I must have put in and taken out the intake and exhaust more than a dozen times trying to get them to fit together (it was the MSA header that was the cause of the problem)...thanks. BTW John, will you be at either the MSA show in April or the ZCCA convention in June? I don't get to the West Coast much, but will be at both this year and would like to thank you in person for all the advice and help I've gotten from you over the past few years.
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Try Sergio's Autobody in Rosendale or Clark's in Pepperrel. Suggest you think about joining the Z Car Club of New England (http://www.zccne.org) good support group for all age Zs.
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seems my mikunis and a single point for the vacumn booster isn't the best way to get my brakes to work to their max. I was thinking of taking off the TWM intake and tapping out 2-4 more holes amd fitting a manifold to the taps to get vacumn from more than one cylinder at a time. Any alternative suggestions before the snow slowly melts and I take my Z out of hiberation?
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The measuring point should be: front - back of tire at the bottom of the fender and rear- front of the wheel at the rocker. I think you will know get numbers in the 5-6 inch range, which is typical of a lowered Z.
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Just for yukes go out and look at the rubber that the pulley is pressed over. My guess is if the dampener is over 4-5 yrs old it will be brittle. Why be cheap when you can be safe....
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Got the single groove too and had one go while on the dyno (7000+ rpm and 154 mph in 4th) the clutch strap made what my father calls an "inspection port" in the tranny. No other serious engine damage however. And remember the recommendation is to use a special nut and lock ring when you use the "euro" dampener. Never, ever use a used dampener....
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Ditto on Charlie's servive and the quality of his replacement parts. I put a set in during the restoration of my 240Z G-nose. The one thing missing were seat brackets. I had them made (they are identical to the original ones) and am now selling them both thru Charlie and on my website (to be launched in February and yes I'll finally be selling the gnose hinges too). Email me for now (see my profile) if you need a set of seat brackets before then.
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I have the MSA G-Nose attached to my 72 with hinges I had fabricated from an original Nissan hinge provided by Mike Kelly. The good news is that they work just like they need too (ie., the hood doesn't move forward and hit the nose). The not so good news is that the tension rods won't hold the hood up by itself and the hood support rod will need to be reconfigured. That said, I will post on prices for the hinges as soon as we make some small cosmetic changes. As to the MSA g-nose itself, it took a very good bodyshop over 10 hours to get it to fit right. The cost of the nose itself!! It seems the section in front of the hood is nearly 2 inches too short and they cut the inverted portion (mirrors the hood) out and added a section behind it to bring it up to the right location. The headlight buckets had no provisions for attachment to the car as well.
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I'm that guy who had to pay a shop 10 hrs to fit the so-called bolt-on g-nose to his car. It wasn't just grinding, they had to cut and add a section in the front to make it fit right. Plus there were no bolts to connect it to the fenders, they had to be epoxied in. Does look great however. Now, if I can only get the hinges completed. Hinges are NLA as are the chrome trim and headlight covers. I was told if I was to find them that I could expect to pay upwards of $1,000. for a set.
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G-nose is on and the 240 is painted (Nissan medium gray w/10% more metallics). I'm waiting on the fabrication shop to complete the first set of hinges but it gives me room to work in the engine bay. I have the entire interior to put back in (found uncracked dash, oh, boy) and the car to clean up after the bodyshop had their way with it. Engine/drivetrain are in and I hope to start it up next week. Still waiting on the ITG air filter and base plate so I can punch the holes in the plate and the custom heat shield at the same time. Put in Ross's rear disk brake set-up and a Quaife unit in the 3:90 diff. Engine is Rebello's 3.2L w/triple Mukunis on a TWM intake manifold. Haven't even heard it run yet...Been working either on the car or to pay for the car so haven't been on-line for months. Will post pics of restoration and completed car in the next few weeks.
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Yes, the stock hinge set swing the hood forward, which in the case of a g-nose or other type of front nose option, would not only rub but most likely crack the fiberglass or bend the metal. The original g-nose was a 5-piece kit but the newer kits are either 1 or 2 pieces. The hinges for some reason are no longer made (not even in japan).
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I will look into the Pay Pal route tomorrow and post the account info as soon as I have completed it.
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With the help of fellow HybridZ members I am in the process of having several sets of g-nose hinges made from a Nissan original. They will not be identical in appearance but will function in the same manner. I don't have final costs yet but am estimating a set (w/o tension rods) to be in the $185-225. range. I haven't looked into payments methods yet but MOs or bank checks would be the simplest way for me unless I set up a Pay Pal account. If you're interested email me at: jjeffery@trcsolutions.com For those who are concerned about dealing with someone you don't know (yet), I'm the event coordinator for the Z Car Club of New England and the car show manager for the 2003 ZCCA annual convention. I post under the name 3L240 and JJs72 (zcar.com).
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The car in the pic has the "real" g-nose (ie., 5-piece metal vs 1 or 2 piece fiberglass). These were made in the early 70s and as such the fit and finsih is equal to the times. You can tell it's a Japanese car by the spring loaded front license plate. They're into photgraphic speed traps big-time, so your plate swings up to avoid being spotted.
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Yeah, that's about it with the stroker crank and triple Mikunis. Looking at the TWM fiberglass coolbox and a remote air filter. It's about $100 more than a ITG single unit set-up. Won't get my car on the road until May. Club Race car should be running by late April. Keep us all informed...
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Dan -
I always thought you were a $1,000. away from a blown engine or spun set of bearings, running like you do without the benefit of a baffled oil pan or an Accusump set-up. An oil cooler for those fast laps you and your car are capable of would be the final touch to a great protection system. Sorry to hear about all this. Let me know if I can do anything to help... . 3L240 soon to be 3.2L240 -
I'm a week or two away from having my 240 painted (engine bay, interior, undercarriage) and body work on the shell (will be primed). The question is do I go all one color or do the bay black? I will be installing the engine later with all the accessories. I'm sure I'll be tweaking something in the bay before long and of course will need to touch it up. Which would be easier..black (either satin or semi-gloss) or the silverstone I plan on using?
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I'll be selling the triple webbers that are complete with Cannon intake, linkage and K&N individual filters...the T5 will be rebuild and used in my new 240 (new 240?? maybe next is the right term)
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The day before Christmas Liberty Mutual agreed to pay us all but $500. of our appraised value. The check has beed cashed, we bought the wrecked Z w/3.0L Rebello engine, coil-overs, etc., etc. for salvage value ($47.50). Have purchased 2 other 240s (one for parts and one as a shell). Shell is now stripped and will go to be sandblasted next week prior to the bodywork. Got triple 40 DCOEs and T5 tranny with shell car. Will update more next week
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Thanks!! I have seen their ads and had thought about contacting them but was under the (wrong)impression that there was a mileage limit. The car is garaged year round and is our third car. I would gladly list the mods for them. Thanks again. And as to the status of my plight; my insurance company hasn't responded to our latest detailed rebuttal. Maybe by 2003. In the meanwhile, my AZ shell will be here later this week, and a spare parts car has been stripped to the suspension. Have the tool kit that never came out of the plastic bag, plus a lot of other unused stuff. It was like opening a time capsule. I'll post some pics in the New year...
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Well, to answer more than one post... first, I did ask for and get actual cash value ($11,000. and that's without the Rebello 3.0 installed so not to worry before the car leaves for the junkyard it will have the L24 it came with sitting in the hatch area if they won't let me buy it back),now this year they changed my policy to market value (page 7 in small print and without explaining or giving us any reason for their action). We missed that but then they missed the fact that the market value policy is $150 a yr lower, so I've been paying for the actual all along. I called today to Liberty Mutual and asked an agent to quote me a price to insure all three of our cars (they're in my wife's name now and it's different than mine). I asked for actual value on the Z ($11,000.) and she gave me a price within $10 of what we're paying now. I asked what would the price be if the company won't do actual value. She had to work on that and call me back, so when she did I didn't answer and let her call go to voice mail. I now have her telling me that it would be $150. lower. Got Ya...There's a way to take them to court under a law called 93A. I will be talking to attornies tomorrow and reporting them again to the Division of Insurance here in MA.
Now as to the restoration, I'm going to have the paint prepped and primed (interior and exterior), paint the engine bay, then take it back to go the engine, drivetrain, and suspension swap, have it reprimed if needed, then painted. Then add new front glass and all around moulding/emblems, etc. Will report back later next week. But not to worry every part over $11k will not be going to them.
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Wow, a question I can answer. I used Coolflex metal hoses, expense ($250.) but they should last for 10 years and look great. Search under their name for dealers or in the back of most car mags. Email me and I'll send you some pics...
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well, Scott you have a point, but I have never let any corporate entity get away with anything before without a fight or a good fraggin...I paid for the appraised value as part of my coverage and I intend on getting it or a piece of their ass with it. I'm not asking for more than the coverage I paid for ($11,000.) regardless of how much more I put into the car.
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Oh, I think it's worth more than $10K based on the following parts: Rebello 3.0L L28 w/comp 5-spd and 3:90 LSD rear, all new bushings, ground control coil-overs, tokico adjustables, camber plates, all new u-joints, bearings, seals, H-4 head/fog lights, Holley fuel pump®ulator, K&N filters (gas, oil, air),Howe radiator, 6.5 qt comp oil pan, all new chrome bumpers, BBS chrome 16X8 wheels w/Bridgestone-03s, ST sway bars front and rear,new brakes w/Porterfield pads, Cobra seats, rollbar, all new interior except dash (door skins, arm rests, handles,carpets, all plastic trim), 5-pt cam safety harnesses, no rust anywhere. As to the insurance company, I sent them all the reciepts (over $18,000.) and they upped their offer $500. to $6,700. I had it appraised 2 yrs ago for $11,000. before redoing the suspension, brakes and wheels. I did what they asked (appraisal) and now they say they don't have to pay that amount. They reached their value by going to AutoTrader.com and just picking a few cars in the $5 to 8k range and saying their comparable. I took the same cars and added a list of all the parts they didn't have and what they cost (using my reciepts and no labor). If you took a $6k car and added everything I have
it comes out in the $14-16k range. No response whatsoever on this from them. My autobody shop will stand by me, I'm having the car appraised again next week and we have reported the company (Liberty Mutual) to the State for switching our policy to "stated value" and have requested an internal audit by their oversight group. We will be cancelling our 3 cars, house and cottage polices with them as soon as this is settled. They paid out nearly $3,000. for a minor hit and run 2 years ago and now want to give me double that for a total (their estimate was $10,650.). My wife is now angry at me just because this is taking so much of her time (if I was the family contact person, it would be down to fists at this point). I suppose they think that it costs them nothing to say no to our request for the whole amount.
I have the MSA G-Nose attached to my 72 with hinges I had fabricated from an original Nissan hinge provided by Mike Kelly. The good news is that they work just like they need too (ie., the hood doesn't move forward and hit the nose). The not so good news is that the tension rods won't hold the hood up by itself and the hood support rod will need to be reconfigured. That said, I will post on prices for the hinges as soon as we make some small cosmetic changes. As to the MSA g-nose itself, it took a very good bodyshop over 10 hours to get it to fit right. The cost of the nose itself!! It seems the section in front of the hood is nearly 2 inches too short and they cut the inverted portion (mirrors the hood) out and added a section behind it to bring it up to the right location. The headlight buckets had no provisions for attachment to the car as well.
I'm that guy who had to pay a shop 10 hrs to fit the so-called bolt-on g-nose to his car. It wasn't just grinding, they had to cut and add a section in the front to make it fit right. Plus there were no bolts to connect it to the fenders, they had to be epoxied in. Does look great however. Now, if I can only get the hinges completed. Hinges are NLA as are the chrome trim and headlight covers. I was told if I was to find them that I could expect to pay upwards of $1,000. for a set.
G-nose is on and the 240 is painted (Nissan medium gray w/10% more metallics). I'm waiting on the fabrication shop to complete the first set of hinges but it gives me room to work in the engine bay. I have the entire interior to put back in (found uncracked dash, oh, boy) and the car to clean up after the bodyshop had their way with it. Engine/drivetrain are in and I hope to start it up next week. Still waiting on the ITG air filter and base plate so I can punch the holes in the plate and the custom heat shield at the same time. Put in Ross's rear disk brake set-up and a Quaife unit in the 3:90 diff. Engine is Rebello's 3.2L w/triple Mukunis on a TWM intake manifold. Haven't even heard it run yet...Been working either on the car or to pay for the car so haven't been on-line for months. Will post pics of restoration and completed car in the next few weeks.
I always thought you were a $1,000. away from a blown engine or spun set of bearings, running like you do without the benefit of a baffled oil pan or an Accusump set-up. An oil cooler for those fast laps you and your car are capable of would be the final touch to a great protection system. Sorry to hear about all this. Let me know if I can do anything to help... . 3L240 soon to be 3.2L240
it comes out in the $14-16k range. No response whatsoever on this from them. My autobody shop will stand by me, I'm having the car appraised again next week and we have reported the company (Liberty Mutual) to the State for switching our policy to "stated value" and have requested an internal audit by their oversight group. We will be cancelling our 3 cars, house and cottage polices with them as soon as this is settled. They paid out nearly $3,000. for a minor hit and run 2 years ago and now want to give me double that for a total (their estimate was $10,650.). My wife is now angry at me just because this is taking so much of her time (if I was the family contact person, it would be down to fists at this point). I suppose they think that it costs them nothing to say no to our request for the whole amount.
How much is my car lowered?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
I think you should try from the fenders as the floor pan and rails can and will sag whereas the fender/rockers should be at a constant position. If you're as low as you say at the frame rail, then both your exhaust (the original problem) and your oil pan come into play. At 5.5 inches at the rocker, my comp pan sits a mere 3.75 inches off the road. I run with 2.25 degrees neg camber in front and 2 degrees in the rear on 245x45x16s. The rear has a very small flare allowing upward wheel travel to just clear. The car has been corner balanced to within 5 lbs side to side and 40 lbs front to rear with me in the car and 1/2 tank of gas. Low is great on the track and makes for a great look but limits you to the roads that will allow you to drive safely on them and transmits road vibrations right into my hands.