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gnosez

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gnosez last won the day on February 12

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About gnosez

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    http://www.baddogparts.com

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    Massachusetts

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  1. I have had a 5/8 bolt in the rear control arm/strut for over 16 years and 250 track days with no issues whatsoever. I have not found one good reason to use the locking pin and I have several rear control arms from old SCCA EP cars that use either a through bolt or a spindle pin without the locking pin. It's not like I haven't put stress on the control arms...
  2. Not all 2+2s had longer rails but rather different floor contours
  3. If you have the room I would get a second block and use it for your future track motor build while using the one you currently have in the car. A good tune-up and a few inexpensive mods should give you enough to both enjoy the car and add other non-engine mods to the car as you want. A second engine would extend the life of the track motor depending how much you get into the build (mild, mid and full race}. The closer ot gets to a track only build the shorter the life cycle (rockers, springs, bearings)
  4. Jon Mortensen - do you get the same reaction (spinning the inside tire) on both tracks and autocross courses? I haven't autocrossed in years so all I have now is track experiences using a Quaife and I have not had the inner tire spin early. Perhaps this is a sharp, tight, high torque corner issue normally not found on a race track. Just wondering,,,
  5. PM me and I'll give you my cell number. You might want to consider vintage racing as opposed to SCCA racing.
  6. Aydin71 - I fully understand that you have certain regulations and rules limiting what you can and can't do. I should be very upfront and admit I'm a Quaife or OS Giken fan even though I have run an '89 LSD unit for years. The late John Coffey got me into OS Giken after testing a unit giving him a full second over the Quaife and 2.5 over the LSD unit. Quaife is good for life even if you race it. I'm on the east coast so shipping would be expensive but I would look for someone selling a Datsun R180 in the right ratio for you (3:90/4:11/4:38?) and then install a Quaife or OS Giken. You c
  7. A couple of things based on 17 years and over 225+ track days with a 240 race car: Stock diff mount welded with two steel bars (17 years and no issues) Engine HP ranged from 150 to 350+ @rw Ran stock half shafts for 15 years with no issues Used any number of R180 diffs (3:90 Quaife/4:11 Quaife/4:38 OS Giken) Ran a 4:44 R190 LSD (stump puller) Swapped in an R200 3:90 w/Quaife using 300ZXT CVs w/Modern Motorsports stub axles The swap to the R200 was in response to toasting two R180s due to the 250rwhp/250#storque/10 inch wide rear R7 Hoosiers. One w
  8. Been there. My son never slept for the first three years. I offered him the keys to my Z with a full tank of gas saying this was a one time offer. He never responded in any verbal manner.
  9. When did Mikunis have 45mm carbs?
  10. Here's the RCA from the ITS car. There are three holes (one is under the stub axle. I believe one hole was used to funnel air into the back of the backing plate.
  11. At least a year or so ago Carbotech will put any of their compounds on a set of shoes. I purchased Rockauto shoes and removed the material before sending them to in. As to keeping them cool I will take a picture of what an EP/ITS backing plate looks like after having a several holes cut to allow heat to dissipate. I ran steel drums due the amount of heat generated, I think with the holes cut I could have used aluminum drums instead.
  12. Still interested? I have one. PM me
  13. I could find no mention of a brake booster in your set-up and was wondering if you are designing one in or will you go with a pedal assembly, bias bar and dual MCs? Without the booster I needed to relearn how to brake using my whole leg (slightly off the floor) and not rotating from my ankle to apply pressure on the pedal. After 4 hours on the track I woke up with a leg cramp and until I remembered the new set-up was at a lose for why my leg hurt so much.
  14. Not sure how much effect you would get from just moving a battery a few inches lower on braking or handling.
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