gnosez
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Posts posted by gnosez
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I can only tell you about my experiences with notched heats and triples carbs. I don't use a gasket and haven't for the past 10 years on both my street 240 and my race 240. Red RTV for the exhaust and Hondabond for the intake. The race engine comes apart each winter.
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Loose gland for sure. Had the same thing happen on my 240 race car. It could have ended badly. It came loose once more and then I put in a new nut. When I have the car apart this winter I will get a tab welded on the tube so I can wire tie the gland nut to the strut.
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If I remember correctly John mentioned struts for the Beijing to Paris 240Z were from either a Camaro or a Corvair using 600lb springs (??). I too had many long distance conversations with him and now wish I had transcripts to rely on.
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Not too sure that that car ever ran with a BSR valve cover. Save for that it is a very nice resto.
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Single Point Jack Plates, Low Profile Jack, or 2X6 pine (4).
My 240 oil pan sits lower than the crossmember and I can get a Harbor Freight $100 jack under the TC box and diff. I run 16/8/245 all around on a lowered car.
I run RA1s on the race car since we can't run slicks in my Group which are 225/25/15(F & R) and and here's a picture at full droop (running with slicks during an HPDE - 225/45/15 -F & 275/35/15- R)
Fixed measurement points (center of fender inner lip, rocker, TC rod box, crossmember, diff) would allow us to compare car to car.
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Two radiators due to the fan hitting them? Maybe it's time to switch to an electric fan. Frees up some HP and space.
I'd love to hear from other folks who race as to whether they see motor mount movement so drastic that the fan goes into the radiator under heavy braking.
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My question as well. The idea that the OEM mounts were going bad after 6 months is hard to believe. The ones in the race car are 3 years old and are checked often. The ones in the street Z are even older and they're fine.
How the mounts are at idle or at 3000 rpm aren't a concern, I'd like to know what it's like going up to 7000 rpm, down to 3000 and back to 7000 in a matter of seconds at WOT.
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I might even be able to drive into a slanted ramp parking garage. Oh right, the exhaust tone will still set off car alarms.
It does however look like a solution to a real problem. The air tank is a bit of an issue however.
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I have had only good experiences with Carbotech pads and shoes. This winter I replaced the stock booster, MC and pedals with Wilwood pedals, MCs and new lines.
Took the car out on Saturday and it operated flawlessly.
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We made a mistake in positioning the fuel cell and moving the battery to the back. The fire bottle and Accusump got mounted in the passenger foot well which made a good off-set. We tossed the stock pedal assembly, booster and MC (20+ lbs there gone) and have a fuel filter, expansion tank, oil filter and oil cooler hoses mounted on the right side of the engine along with a 3 lb alternator.
I'm 5' 10" on a good day so the seat is up close to the steering wheel and the steering column and seat were moved closer to the tunnel then in a stock set-up.
The hard part then becomes the process of counter balancing with Step 1 the most difficult - getting everything level. Measure, turn the coil-over, roll the car, record the weights, repeat, repeat, repeat....
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1972 240Z vintage track car:
- L series engine w/triples
- ZX 5-spd
- R180 w/Quaife
- FG fenders, hood and hatch w/lexan, one piece valance, headlight covers, BSR airdam & spoiler
- qtr windows and door SS frame
- doors gutted
- 3-qt accusump
- 10 lb fire bottle
- 16 gal fuel cell w/dual Holley pumps, twin filters
- no rear sway bar
- BBS 15x7F 15x10R wheels with Hoosiers (225F/275R)
- driveshaft hoop
- dual exhaust with trumpets
- TTT RCAs
- Stock LCAs
- Z31 calipers w/vented rotors and drum rears
- No booster
- AZ Z oil pan and oil cooler (11 qts total)
- AL dash with multiple gauges
total weight w/ 8 gals and 175 lb driver = 2300
FL 563 FR 563
RL 584 RR 590
F 49% R 51%
Cross 50/50
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Back in the late '70s Preston took 12 or so 280Z 5-spds and turned them into straight cut, changeable transmissions using Hewland gears. I know were 3.5 are and would like to put my hands on one of the remaining units.
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While it could be a main seal leak, I'd be looking for some other locations (front cover, or the pan itself) first. When your car is being driven the leaking oil could be migrating back towards the back of the engine and tranny.
Clean everything, then drive the car a few miles and check starting at the front.
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Duragg - you happen to snap one? Seems I know someone else who did.
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I too found that the Vs on the Toyo888s threw up way to much debris for my liking.
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That looks like an older MSA front air dam like this one attached. Add a custom or modified splitter, a set of ZG fender flares and side canards and you have something very similar.
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Thanks. Been away until last night and the ZCD issue kept me busy.
I have some parts I'm trying to determine if they are 240/260/280 specific.
If I post or PM you the part numbers could you tell me which?
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Anyone keep a catalog? I would like to verify two or three part numbers.
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Fuel filter(s) could be an issue but it's more likely the pick-up tube.
With the car sitting flat in a garage there is no way to tell the effect of a hard left hand turn. I suppose you could jack up one side and see if the engine sputters.
Fuel cell suppliers and Holley sell a variety of pickup feeds (duckbill, sheet, etc.) if you determine it's the fuel being thrown away from the current location of your pickup.
We had the same thing happen with our 13 gallon fuel cell and we went to dual pickup located on both sides of the tank and two pumps. The triples suck a lot of fuel in a hurry on the track.
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Moving the drivetrain over by modifying the engine mounts was done by BSR to balance out the car by getting more weight on the front right wheel. I'm figuring it might not been in compliance with the rules at that time but it worked.
My 72 gnose with a full interior, L28 w/triples, R200 Quaife, 16x8 Custom Wheels (245/45/16) full tank of gas, tool bag and misc spare parts - 2467lbs
The 72 race car w/cage, L24 w/triples, R180, 15x7F-15x10R BBS wheels, 14 gals 110, 12 qts of oil, accusump, fire bottle, BDP frame rails, driveshaft hoop, duel exhaust - 2208 lbs
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The 00008 BSR car and I assume others ran a solid bar through the frame rails in the engine bay. They welded in a section of pipe and had the bar attached to the LCAs. I believe Bob said, soft springs and shocks coupled with stiff sway bars. Will ask JR next week when I'm in Connecticut.
I have one of the bars up in the shop and will check it tomorrow for any identification markings.
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The most I can run is a 23" tall tire so I swap out either the 4.44 or 4.375 which we run on short/hilly tracks to the 4.11 for longs ones like The Glen. Engine makes power between 4000-6700rpm so I can do a major portion of the smaller tracks in third that have short straights leading into slow corners.
Haven't had the car on the dyno in a while but we estimating about the 220-240rwhp & similar torque numbers @2209 lbs wet, no driver.
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Road Atlanta is out of my normal range with VIR a 12+ hr trip. Luckily enough work takes me to a site not more than 6 miles from the track so my tow gas bill is covered as are my hotel and meals.
I might have some new work sites further south so perhaps we can run together before you end up selling.
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I like a track without walls, trees or Armco. Looks like a lot of fun.
How are you liking the 4.375 diff?
What I could see from the track website, it looked like the straights were long enough so that you could top out in all but 5th pretty quick.
Historic/Vintage Race Standard Brakes
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted · Edited by gnosez
XP20 Carbotech compound placed on the stock backing plates. Make sure to use that thin metal shim on the back of the pad since it acts as a heat shield. Better yet get some thin titanium and make shields from that. Cutting it will be interesting but doable.
Speed kills - pads, shoes, rotors and drums. If you use race shoes remember they generate more heat and that can warp those aluminum drums. Add fans to the front brake duct to get more air circulating into the rotor and direct some at the caliper.
I'm not judging, but get track data to verify just how often and how hard you are braking to compare with other drivers.
You could get cross-drilled brake lines that are suppose to keep the brake fluid cool. You would need a large tank of fluid however.