gnosez
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Posts posted by gnosez
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We went the cheaper route and used a copper gasket on our race engine (12.5:1 compression ratio) which failed within minutes of on the track usage. A Kameari while expensive has the necessary crimp ring that seems to be working out fine (we had a LCA crack after 30 laps).
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So the man who built the 280ZXTT says in no uncertain terms that the reason they put those whale tails on is because they worked, period.
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Suggest you go with 2-inch wide lap and then 3-inch shoulder belts. Much easier on the mid-section.
Have Autopower street bar in my street 240 (modified with an additional horizontal cross bar for the harnesses) and an Autopower cage in our 240 race car. The bolt in has been welded in and we've added a similar horizontal bar for the harness and a set of impact bars in the driver's door area.
Wrecked my other 240 (front and rear damage) and that roll bar is now in my "new" 240. Sixty-five mph crash into a barrier wall. Harness held, seat held, car was a total. No injuries.
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Latest version of custom set of S30 LCA w/TC rods I just picked up from our local powder coater. Adjustable, clean looking and not a bad price in comparison to some other sets being sold. Now to see if they will stand up to some pounding!!??
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The red was more orange but it's the Brock 370 (at Nashville ZCON in '10)
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Jon - my response was misleading and/or poorly worded. The front toe for both the race car and my street car is set at 1/8-inch OUT. I could care less about tire wear.
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Well, since I run both the race car and my street car with zero toe in the rear and just under an 1/8 total in the front I guess all I can do now is change to a different set of knuckles or move the rack back.
I did run my street 240 with a 1/8 rear toe but after J.R. Mitchell (GMT Racing and former BSR crew member) drove the car he suggested zero rear toe. They both handle real well.
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So, is that any real data showing the results of adding/reducing Ackermann in an S30 body? If it hasn't been done it would need to limit as many other variables that are possible to control:
1) driver
2) tires
3) alignment (static)
4) track
5) temperature
6) weight
7) speed (corner entry)
8) position on the track
Run a car, record data, change the Ackermann, and run it again.
If, and this is a big if, you could duplicate your first set of test laps, the driver's input and lap times should answer the differences in opinion on this matter.
Until there's data (and data in my line of work is information that has been verified) this is, to me, beating a point to death. Theory is nice, civil discussion on points of contention is the reason Hybridz works, but for me I want to know if we're talking a minimal increase in performance or an increase that would warrant time and money to redo my Z.
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Okay, there are only a few more hours left in 2010 so I using them to ask a question or more that I'm likely to get flamed for.
What exactly can be done to add/reduce Ackermann in an S30? What parts need to be purchased, made or removed to do this? Price/time? And just how much of a faster lap time would it result in? Since there are so many variables going on as the car transitions from straight to cornering I wonder if driver input has more of an impact than Ackermann (pos/anti) ever will.
Why when I ask about Ackermann at race shops that built and ran S30 cars back in the day do they look at me like I have two heads (do I)?
And a few for BJ - would you care to share your spring/shock combo setting for your rigid race car? Do you run a rear sway bar?
I just guessing here but I can see this discussion lasting through 2011...
Happy New Year's
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This is eric bernstein's former IMSA 240z and I love the way the cowl hood flows with the car:
I'd like to use this same cowl hood on my widebody project, so I was wondering if anyone had any info on the dimensions of it. I don't know if this is a universal one or a modded MSA cowl hood:
This FG hood has a slightly lower cowl and I guess could be called the "universal one" as opposed to the separate cowl section you would need to graft on.
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Jon - I'm the one running a Quaife and the 300ZXT CVs. I destroyed a nice 3:90 gear set using aftermarket CVs after less than 50 miles that had both sides of the CVs the same length. I solved the issue by installing a set of OEM CVs and AR Zs RCAs that allowed me to get another 1/8 a side in width.
As to ride height my 240 sits at 5.75 front and 6.0 rear @ rocker lip.
Since the new CVs and the RCAs were put in 2 yrs ago I have driven the car about 12k miles and tracked in several times with no issues.
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Are these OEM or aftermarket CVs?
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This was amongst the stuff Z-Ya and I got when we purchased the remaining 240 parts from the 240/280 BSR-Newman race car. We're not completely sure what it does (though it does look like something from a Dr. Seuss book)but I'm thinking it directed air to perhaps a helmet and a driver's suit??
It is a real piece of welding and fab work but I'm not sure if my crappy camera allows you to see this.
Bob Sharp is signing the dog-ring 5-spd later this week and I'll ask him. Will post the answer on Friday.
Once we know what it does we can decide whether to make it part of our race car.
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My '72 with full interior, roll bar, 3/4 tank of gas, bigger wheels and tires, and a gnose weighs in at 2455.
Z-Ya and I own a 240 race car and with 8 gals of fuel, full dash, full cage, FG hood, fenders, air dam, lexan hatch window, gutted doors (no glass, no mechs, etc.),passenger seat weighs in at 2250. Car is stripped down right now being refreshed and a sheet metal dash will be installed but we will add a bar or two across this opening so I'm figuring no weight reduction. Hoping to get down to 2200 lbs.
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Sorry to be so late to this great post but I would have liked to see the whole thing without the grille cut-out. There was more than enough inlet air in the original design and a fan shroud would have added to overall cooling. As it stands now it is the opposite of what was learned during the aero-windtunnel testing.
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'08 GTR driven hard on the track
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Full track 240 w/cage, 3:70 LSD, ZX 5-spd, 225/50/14 Hoosiers, MSA 2 airdam w/fan shroud as only air entering engine bay, 2250 lbs w/5 gals of fuel, Z-Ya custom L28 intake making 180rwhp running at Monticello's 4.1 mile, 22 corner track this week and a few weeks ago. The speedo reads over 135 with the in-car GPS lap timer reading 124 going down the long 3/4 mile back straight.
The car is stable @125mph with steering inputs a bit less than at speeds under 100 but not enough to worry about.
BTW, the GTRs lift at 165...
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After all the money gets spent on suspension, engine and aero mods, I vote that the best bang for the buck would be more driver instruction.
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Did you use any gasket material between the lexan and hatch?
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Okay, I'm confused. What, which "plate' are you talking about? The one on the top of the airdam (bottom of the radiator?) Or a splitter plate (bottom of the airdam)?
If the top of the air dam, that's a good start but you would need to install a shroud or tunnel for the air entering past the grill to make all this really work. And you'd want to block off about 80-90% of the front nose as well to make it effective.
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Have had my gnose up to 130mph with no effect (ie., nothing fell off) after I installed this Roostmonkey made splitter but I realize that it really needs to be several inches lower to work effectively. Oil spots are from my old Ford Exploder (can you say "clunker").
Poor road conditions and the fact that I trailer it on occasion limit how low I would place it. I'm thinking of a lower FG skirt that would be removable but that's just in the planning stages at this point.
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Doesn't Rebello build an NA L28 with over 360hp for land speed runs?
And what tranny are they using to handle all this?
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Dan - thanks for reminding me about that site. Everyone is losing weight this year, the car and the drivers....
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Looking at the picture on the left and seeing the rear round wing, I thought that it had been made into a flat bottomed swamp boat...
Frame rail restoration pics
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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