AZhitman

I believe I can help with that (sorry guys, I'm nearly a year late on my reply!) We address the various methods for determining assist level here: https://zpowersteering.com/?page_id=63 Bottom line, a hydraulic PS system is demand-based, so we've replicated that with our torque-sensing system and ECU. Speed, RPM, and time of day are utterly irrelevant to power assist delivery. Measuring torque differential via two inputs costs more, but it's simply the only way to accurately replicate the feel of a hydraulic setup. Thanks for all the positive comments! Greg (zpowersteering.com)

Hi Doug - Far from the same. That motor is not even intended for automotive applications. We've addressed this here: http://zpowersteering.com/beware-cheap-imitations/ I'm sure they do a fine job with reselling and dropshipping for the Z community, but there's no comparison in the electric power steering realm. I know how much R&D we put into this.

Hi Matt - All emails were replied to immediately, including this last one. I suspect it might be time for you to upgrade carriers (I'm a fan of gmail, simply because it works - always).

Greeting all! Hi Matt - If you email info@zpowersteering.com, you'll get a reply, usually within an hour or two. I'm very responsive. Cheers! -Greg (zpowersteering.com)

TJ? Can't imagine there's someone in Phx with a modded Z that I don't know of.

Enjoying this thread immensely. I've got an RB-powered Z that's complete, and after all that work, she's "creaky." When I started the build, my intention was to do a full stock restoration... but now that she has power and handling and braking, I really want the chassis to be as well-done as the rest of the car. Almost thinking I'd like to find a clean rust-free shell, media blast it, incorporate ALL of the aforementioned efforts, and THEN swap everything over from my completed Z. Just what I need.... another project.

...and we're doing a $100 off deal until December 30 (or the next 11 systems, whichever comes first). We got a smoking deal on a case of components, so we're going to pass the savings along to the community!

Bringing back an old thread... I'm running into the same issue with my DCOE 42's on a built L20b. When I pulled the carbs to check the "gaskets" (I'm running the anti-vibration isolators), I held the carb up and looked down the bores - There was a sliver of light coming past the throttle plates on one side. Seems the throttle shafts were adjusted too far to one side or the other, which leads me to believe I may be missing something in the tightening of the outer nuts on the throttle shaft, causing the whole internal assembly to pull slightly to one side of the bore or the other. Once I got them adjusted, it ran fine for a while - However, after a few sessions of hard throttle open/close, the problem has returned. No vac leaks anywhere - I've checked over and over and over. Anyone else run into problems with this, and how can I fix it permanently?

Just as an FYI, this kit (designed specifically for the Z) is $1500 shipped. http://zpowersteering.com/

Just an FYI, got another option for you guys looking to do a power steering conversion in your Z. We have it on our RB-powered '72 and love it. http://zpowersteering.com/

Nino, as a guy who's restored a Z, done a crazy engine swap, written countless articles, and has been running a forum for 10 years, I have to say this: This is one of the best threads, and best builds, I've ever read about. You're a talented writer, the car is amazing, and I hope to see this car doing its thing in the US at some point. Congrats to you for setting the bar for hybrid Z's MUCH higher.

You rock brother!!! Thanks for the info and the encouragement.

Ok, here's where I'm at on this car (finally): Got the fat open diff out and am ready to install the R160 (3.70 LSD from a Scooby)... The R160 has bolt-in stub axles, while the original has clip-ins. What stub axles do I need to get to make this diff mate up to my halfshafts? Thanks all!

No, you're correct, Grim. Which is why I';m kinda surprised these haven't sold...

Excellent - Thanks, guys. Much appreciated.

OK, I'm sure this has a simple answer, and I promise I searched.... I have a 3.7 LSD R160 from an 80's Subaru. It looks like the input flange will mate to the driveshaft, but I'm not finding any information on whether it'll play nice with the stock Z axles or Z31 turbo CV axles. Can anyone help? Sorry for the n00b question, and thanks in advance!

The thinner one was taken off the front of my Z, and replaced with the Motorsport bar. The fatter one is the other one from Motorsport. I'm wondering now if I have my F & R bars mixed up or something? Or perhaps, as Pete says, those are rear bars for a later Z with the body mounting points?

These two bars are rear sway bars, correct? Here's why I ask: My S30 has the rear bar that mounts to the subframe (not the body) and the LCA's. My buddy's 73 has a rear bar that faces the other way and mounts to the body and the LCA's. I ordered the Motorsports kit (F & R bars). Installed the front one with no problems, but the rear one (I assume) as shown above (dark grey) doesn't fit my car. I suppose I could drill the holes in the body and install mine like my buddy's 73, but I have a functional bar now and would prefer not to drill if I don't have to. Thanks in advance - Hope all that makes sense!

It's an early 73 model.

Ok. Thanks. Thought they might be rare.

No worries - thanks a ton for looking!

I meant if someone had the diff and no axles... (sorry, shoulda clarified)

That'd be awesome... I'm *this* close to finishing this car!

Need bell crank and linkage rod... PM me please?

Good info! Just out of curiosity, what's a set of CV axles from the 88 SS model (the rare ones with the different spline count) worth?