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dexter72

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Posts posted by dexter72

  1. I think you need to start your testing all over again. Check battery voltage without using jumper cables or a jump box connected to the battery. Battery voltage should be 12volts. If you don't have this have the battery charged. Get the car started and check the charging voltage at the battery. Should be more than 13 volts with the engine running. If not, figure out why the alternaor is not charging.

     

    You don't check for a system draw the way your checking it, I would start from scratch. I think your confusing yourself.

  2. With a working alternator your battery voltage should be from 13.0 volts up to 14.9 volts. From your readings I will say the alternator is not charging the battery. Your battery voltage should be 12 volts. Get the battery charged up first. A lot of shops have a newer type of charger that will charge the jell type AGM, Optima Batteries. I would also check your system for a draw. I would disconnect that new head unit you installed. Seems like the problems started with that install.

  3. You lock the centrifical advance weights in place inside the distributor, so they can't move ( advance ). By either having them welded in place or use JB Weld, RTV sealant to do it. So you have to take the distributor apart. I locked mine out with silicone sealant, I let it sit for 2 days before putting the distributor back together. I did this before adding megasquirt to my car and a turbo distributor.

     

    You want to connect the vacuum advance if you do a lot of city driving.

     

    There are some posts about the VR Dist which is what an N/a dist signal is. Do a search and those posts will show up. I think some megasquirt users got there engine to run with the N/A Dist.

  4. I have no worries about the engine overheating, Its me sweating to death thats the issue. I see your point about summer tuning but with no a/c, I don't drive the car that often july through august. I usually do early morning drives in the summer. I may have the turbo back in two weeks, so I have some time before the no drive months. Or right after a monsoon blows through and drops the temps 15 degrees. lol

     

    Maybe I can get one of those old school tube shaped coolers, that hung on the windows of cars in the 50's or VW Bugs i see out here.

  5. Sorry to hear about your wrist problems. There is no shame in going auto with a stall converter. You work with what you got. KEEP YOUR HEAD UP. :) After a bad car accident a Doc told me I would not walk normally again, so forget about ever playing semi-pro football again. I couldn't play ball anymore but I walk normally and can run faster then guys 15 years younger then me. Took a couple of years. I am 45 by the way.

  6. Try using Cygnus Map in the map sharing thread. Your cam being larger looks like the biggest difference to me, besides your extra cubic inches. Hook up the wideband and after you get the engine to start and run smoothly, make tuning runs with the wideband.

     

    Are you using the Z32 Maf?. If so, why use it since MS already has one in it.

  7. Have you tried starting the engine by jumping the starter connections at the starter?. If it cranks over and starts with the key on, The ignition switch may be bad or has a bad connection at the ignition switch. If you have a volt meter you can yest the voltage at the signal wire at the starter. Should be 12 volts.

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