k5kickin

how does a bushing not function? could you elaborate for me please because I was thinking about buying the kit.

The drive train locked up mid corner

So the car was totaled this weekend.

http://fresno.craigslist.org/ptd/4780555722.html so we found this parts car and turners auto wrecking gave us a pretty good deal on the whole wiper assembly and heater core. now is the time for honda motor upgrades for both and if someone could take a photo of under the dash so we can get an idea of where the heater core goes that would be great. we got the wipers down. we will need to get the hoses ran also any ideas on how to do the center shift boot in the car because there is a ugly hole sitting there and smoke and gas comes into the cabin... it will need to accomodate a t56 later on if everthing goes well. hopefully we'll get some photos of the install, and we figure out how to make wipers work with knob instead of the stick on the wheel. woo an update!

Darkie thanks we checked the suspension and noticed that the springs were loose when the car is off the ground but apparently lowering springs do that. And we isolated the clunk to something in the suspension. When we push on the rear up and down we can get the "pop" clunks. so something is up with the struts is guess. Ps the gorilla who owned this car previously darn near screwed up all the studs and nuts on this car and will all probably need to be replaced.

so, just drove the car and the clunk is still prevalent despite removing a-arms and pumpkin. yet the rear end still clunks. 1.BUSHINGS? 2. Visit my mechanic to see it he sees something i dont.....

hey guys thanks. we for the past week have been slowly working on this because of our working schedules and rain. So first the car has brand new bolts just about everywhere and has a solid diff mount in the front. All the bushing are blown so that may be a problem not too sure, they are looking pretty unhealthy but I wouldnt think that a few bad bushings on the a-arms would cause a loud clunk. Also just received our new gauge which is a speedhut 4" 160mph and 8k tach GPS gauge and its pretty damn cool. Also any idea why someone would wrap darn near the entire exhaust in the ceramic or fibreglass header wrap?

the car was 85 and i will when we pick the car up on saturday. I was just posting the pics of the advert off craigslist. im just a lurker and dont know all the rules and etiquette of posting, so how do i ask a mod to move the thread to the proper section?

So I'm starting this thread for a friend while he learns more about the car. I myself built a 260z and never got around to posting it or even painting it just did the drivetrain and suspension work for the car. This is the car he just put a down payment on until he finishes paying the guy on friday. Clean title, current registration and pink in hand. The actual mileage is unknown, but estimated to be around 160,xxx All new part's have less than 1,000 miles on them. Receipts for nearly all new part's put into this car will be included with the sale. Ford 302 5.0 HO engine Weiand X-cellerator intake, new edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel carb, new block hugger headers, new roller timing chain, new waterpump, underdrive crank pulley, new lokar throttle linkage, new electronic duraspark 2 distributor, new accel 300+ ignition, new MSD coil, new one wire 90amp alternator, new fabricated aluminum valve covers, new allstar air cleaner. Ford Racing Z spec 5 speed trans, brand new from summit racing New clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and pilot bearing New billet short shifter Converted to hydraulic actuated clutch using a new wilwood master cylinder and cnc slave cylinder Griffin aluminum radiator, new Lincoln electric fan R200 rear end RT differential mount for added strength Tokico HP shocks and tokico 280z springs, the 280z springs are linear rate and not progressive like the 240z version, new MSA 1 inch front sway bar with poly bushings, new Front control arms, steering rack, steering coupler, and TC rods all have new urethane bushings New balljoints and tie rod end's New brake booster, new 15/16 master cylinder, 4 piston front calipers and rear drums converted to 240sx disc with working e-brake and proportioning valve installed for front to rear bias adjustment 15x8 0 offset Centerline Convo Pro aluminum 2 piece wheels with 225/50 falken ZE912 tires, new Nardi leather steering wheel Classic Recaro style seats New Carter electric fuel pump, new holley HP billet fuel pressure regulator and new aluminum fuel lines ran MSA type 1 air dam, new New windshield and rear hatch weatherstripping The body is fairly straight and has never been wrecked. It has no rust, the rust that it did have I have already fixed. The only rust it had was the dog leg area on both sides that I patched with sheet metal that will need filler when/if the buyer get's it painted, a patch that was welded in correctly underneath the passenger side seat and the rear hatch sill area was patched with sheet metal and filled with filler to smooth it out. The car is driveable but not 100% complete. What it still need's- Interior need's finished ( door panels, carpet, center console and a few other small pieces for those who like the cheap plastic interior ), the speedometer cable made and hooked up, the turn signals hooked up, and the windshield wipers installed if you plan on driving it in the rain ( I haven't and planned on never driving it in the rain ). The dude was cool enough to source door cards as well. I think its a good deal for what hes getting the car for. First things I want to help him do with the car is do something about a shift boot 2. Then hook up the blinkers 3. figure out how the transmission wire transmission to speedo. whether by vss to mechanikal or electical pod cluster 4. convert the msd ingintion from 4 pulse signal to a 3 pulse for the taco. more to come when we actually pick the car up on