fusion

I like to use a low power setting on my MIG and make a couple of small tacks next to, but not on, the hole. This acts as a heat sink. Then I do small tacks butting up to the heatsink and move subsequent tacks across the hole until it's filled in. If this method blows through the metal then it needs to be cut out anyways.

SOLD

Thanks guys. I won't be tracking the car, but will have lots of power on tap so want to upgrade the stopping power. I understand I'll need to tune the brake bias. I am leaning towards the later model s12+8 calipers with vented 300zx rotors. I feel like that will be a good match with the mustang rear discs. Does anyone know if the front rotors from an 84-86 turbo 300zx will bolt right in to this setup? I will be using the Silvermine 5 lug hubs with a 5x103mm rotor bolt pattern. I think it works

Thanks for your reply. I will be running stock 2015 mustang rear brakes which are 11.8" calipers

I need to convert to 5 lug setup for my front wheels. The rear is already taken care of with the super 8.8 kit. I am heavily leaning towards the Silvermine conversion hubs. But on to the brakes. I am not planning on tracking the car, but it will be a single turbo LS and need decent stopping power on the street. So I saw there is a conversion to run Toyota brakes. Looks fairly low cost. There are a lot of threads but most of the info is lost or broken links. I did find this link to a page about the swap: https://web.archive.org/web/20140110095234/http://drivendaily.org/s30-t

Thanks man, I appreciate it

Wow, very cool, thanks. I changed the title so hopefully now it will pass the FB monitor.

Thanks man. I'm not on FB but hopefully it will sell.

Everything I have is in the pictures. I did post on classicz as well.

Just outside of Saint Paul, MN

Price drop to $900

I am prepping a 1976 280z for paint. I'm assuming most people separate the sugar scoop from the fender when painting the car and paint both separately? Is there a gasket or anything that sits between them? Anyone have any experience or pictures where the scoop is welded to the fender? Obviously there would be a chance to warp the metal. But given they are tightly bolted together, curved surfaces, and it's a flanged butt joint, seems like it would be fairly resistant to warping. Seems straightforward to jump around making a lot of tack welds, grind smooth and finish with a ski

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/132542-for-sale-z31-nissan-300zx-turbo-lsd-differential-with-finned-cover/

I am painting the car, I could weld it. Any reason to have the foam there? Otherwise I could try and fit some double sided foam tape.

Thanks man, excellent information