fusion

Why wouldn't you use clear paint protection film instead?

Thanks for all replies. No offense taken. The reason I asked is because I have seen several videos where they just cut the strut tube without removing anything. Also mentioned on the forum. Examples: Not saying it's the right way, just have seen it done. Also I read that removing the gland nut can be a huge PITA.

I am going to be installing BC coilovers on my 76 280z. This question is for the fronts only. I have seen/read a lot of install information. It seems some people fully disassemble the strut, spring, gland nut, etc and then cut the tube. Others just cut right through without disassembling anything. Would be really nice to not have to deal with the spring compression and gland nut hassle. Any thoughts? Thanks

Got a link to those spacers? I couldn't find them for some reason on T3 site. Edit: Are these what you are talking about? https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/evolved-roll-center-adjusters-datsun-240260280z Does it move the spindle outboard at the sake of increased negative camber? Is it possible to get back in spec with coilover adjustments?

So I am building a 76 280z. I will be running Marugen ZG flares on all 4 corners. I have BC coilovers. I will be running 15" wheels. I have measured in the back and for a 275/50r15 on a 15x8 wheel a +35mm offset fits really well. 15" wheel options aren't great, but I found a wheel that works that I really like. So now I was looking at the front to see how a 15x8 +35 would fit. Mocked up 225, 235 and 245 tires. Definitely need to move the wheel outboard by about 35-50mm to sit close to flush with the flare. (Still need to get more precise measurements) The rear is already 5x

Any update? Also, do you have a picture of the nylock/wire tie?

What did you use for a nut (nylock, lock washer, metal locking, double nut,etc), and what did you torque to?

For those that used the bolt, what did you use for a nut (nylock, lock washer, metal locking, double nut,etc), and what did you torque to?

Thanks Mutant, could you post more pictures? I see you have welting between the flare and body, did you need to do that with the genuine Marugen flare?

I'm sure you saw on rhdjapan site that they offer the wide rear flares, but only in standard type. They list the width at 5cm over stock. I would assume this is true for the deluxe version as well, but they don't make it easy to find the information out. https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-rear-extra-wide-over-fenders-s30-s31.html

Marugen makes wide rear flares in standard and deluxe types. http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/Body/Rwide/Rwide1.htm

Thanks for your comments. Did you get the standard, deluxe, or special type? How long did it take for you to get them? So you think the flares need some sort of flexible material behind them to prevent cracking of the paint on the flares?

I am going bumperless in the rear and am shaving the roll pan on my 280z. I know the large holes can be filled in with sheet metal and welded. What about the recessed areas and threaded holes? See picture. For area 1, what have people done? I was thinking of getting set screws in the threaded holes and welding closed. But what about the large recess? I really don't want to fill it in with Bondo. Maybe just fill in the threaded holes and leave the area recessed? Same questions for area 2. Pictures would be really nice. Thanks

Title says it all. I believe Marugen Shoukai do not need it. I know a lot of flares are crap quality. Does anyone have first hand experience? Thanks

No problem man. Hopefully there is a clear answer on how wide of a tire can fit in an S30 with standard and extra wide flares. Obviously the wheel offset makes a big difference, but I can buy whatever wheels are necessary.