fusion

I am looking to add speakers to my 1976 280z. Just looking for decent sound, nothing special. Not looking to put speakers in the doors or kick panels. Also putting an enclosure in the hatch area also out as I don't like that option either for the aesthetics and loss of hatch space. I have found the following options: 1) Factory location: 5 1/4 speakers that mount in the rear quarter panel area Pros: no modifications needed. Cons: I've read that the sound is terrible. Need to acquire/fabricate brackets 2) speaker adapter kit to mount on rear plastic trim that covers tail lights Pros: super easy, cheap Cons: unknown speaker size, sound quality. Mounting to the plastic trim piece probably doesn't yield good sound output. I haven't called this company yet. https://zparts.com/index.php/product-category/280z-parts/interior-280z-parts/ 3) mount speakers in storage compartments Pros: not much fabrication?? Large speakers(6x9?). Quality sound? Cons: lose storage space I think the storage compartment looks like the best option. Has anyone this and can comment? What about the other options? Thanks

Ok, so apparently there is a nut on the backside that somehow I missed. Problem solved.

I am trying to install the large rear plastic trim pieces in the hatch area on my 1976 280z. I am having trouble getting the pieces around the ears that that hatch struts bolt to. Both sides. Are the ears supposed to unbolt? Mine are tack welded in place.

I have a 1976 280z. Bought it as a shell and I am redoing everything. Under the dash, in the upper kick panel area on both sides it appears there are round openings that have been tack welded or riveted and sealed shut. I also have openings to passageways in both inner fenders up by the core support. I ran some fish tape down the passageways and I'm wondering if they connect to these openings that are blocked off. It seemed like they would connect. I would love to potentially use these to run wires through for a cleaner look. Can anyone shed some light on this? Maybe these were fresh air intakes? If so, how were they controlled? Are the block off plates factory or added by a previous owner? If I open them up, will I get a large amount of air coming in while driving at speed? Thanks

Excellent work

How did you form that feature?

Are these available anywhere? If not, what are people doing as a replacement?

I have a 1976 280z. I am in the middle of a complete teardown and restomod. I got the car as a shell. I am wondering what these 2 holes are for in the firewall? I believe the smaller hole above those 2 circled in red is for the hood release cable. Also, what is this plugged hole that leads from the upper firewall behind the dash that goes into the inner cowl is for? Thanks!

Bump still looking

Thanks for the valuable insight. I will definitely try to seal it off from inside

I removed all the HVAC components from my 1976 280z and have no plans to reinstall. There is now an open hole where the blower connected to the air inlet that runs from under the cowl to inside the car. Wondering if I should block this off or not. At speed, will air be moving into the car or out of the car? I'm also wondering how much air will be moving. Does anyone have any experience with this? I wouldn't mind a little air movement but don't want a lot.

Looking for a spring for a lower door hinge for a 280z.

Do you happen to have a link to what you bought from Amazon?

Thanks Cal!

Hey, I am wiring my 280z from scratch. I removed the original harness from the car and am going to get a Painless chassis kit. I will be running a Holley standalone engine harness. I was thinking about getting this version: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10101 It's for a GM keyed column and doesn't come with the connectors like the much more expensive Pro kit. I am assuming I don't even want the GM connectors in the Pro kit anyway, I am hoping to reuse the ones from my Datsun. Do people have much luck reusing the 45 year old connectors? I'm assuming the plastic connectors are Datsun specific and aren't widely available for cheap? Has anyone found a source for the just the metal male/female crimp parts that go inside the plastic connectors? I'm assuming those are standard parts that can be bought cheaply.