fusion

The best option, in my opinion, by far, is the super 8.8 option.

Can you post pics showing what has changed in the kit that allows the rear wheels to move backward?

Yes. The fronts are skinnier and have a more pronounced bend to contour the fender

I just installed mine. The fronts are obvious and easy to tell which side is which. Rears are much more subtle. From my research and fitment, you want the flares oriented with the wider portion towards the front of the car. Hope that helps.

Great work

Thanks guys. I do have the Marugen flares so they should fit tight

My main reason for wanting to weld nuts instead of rivnuts is to have the flares sit flush on the metal. I am really hoping to not have to use welting.

Any downsides to tack welding nuts behind the sheet metal for ZG flares instead of using rivnuts? Car is still in primer. I was thinking of drilling holes slightly oversized and using flange nuts to give more area to weld to. Is there room to fish a flange nut between outer and inner sheet metal on the rears after the first cut on the outer skin? For the fronts I think it's pretty straightforward. Any comments?

Just to follow up on this, I purchased the vents and they are nicely built and look sweet but they do NOT fit without modifying. I had to remove at least 1/4" of material from the edges to get them to fit in the hood recesses.

Thanks jhm. I'll definitely look at moving the flares forward a bit.

I tack my exhaust pieces usually laying under the car and never back purge. It's just not practical or necessary. I have back purged the full welds but usually use solar flux instead as it's much cheaper and easier. No real risk in after turbo exhaust. Pre-turbo, back purge only. If you are building an extremely high end vehicle maybe back purge everything.

I went with 15" wheels so I can run a taller sidewall on the back for traction. This put me in a bit of a bind for front tire selection. I could either go with 26" tall or 24" tall. I chose 26, and it's a bit tight. I am planning on cutting the lip on the fenders when I install the flares. But I'll have to cut back the air dam as well, and I'm worried it will look funny with the tires being very close to the front of the wheel well, and a much larger gap in the back of the wheel well. Maybe this is really common with Z cars, I'm not sure. I'm not worried about rubbing on the top of the tire, just the front where it gets really close to the fender and air dam Is it common to use an adjustable tension rod to pull the wheel back? How far back can I reasonably expect to move it? How much does it affect driving stability? This is a street car, no road racing or autocross. Just trying to get a feel for what it really means for a street car. I could run a 24" tire up front, but don't love the look of a 2" difference in tire diameter.

I finally got spacers so I can mount my new front wheels and tires. I will be running ZG flares and the spacers push the wheels outboard so the tires are close to flush with the flares. Tires are 235 60 R15 (26" tall). The tires hit the bottom of the front fenders when they just start to turn outward. I still need to mount the flares and cut the metal which should free up space but I was just wondering if this was normal and if anyone uses an adjustable tension rod to pull the wheel back. Also, does anyone know why Nissan had both front and rear wheels not centered in the wheel wells?

Yeah, I ended up ordering the newer version of the BRE spoiler. Since I have the Type 1 air dam I feel that I shouldn't have to worry too much about the front end feeling light. I also hope my hood vents keep the pressure underhood to a minimum.

I have the 2 large vents in my 280z hood, I'm assuming that greatly reduces the drag from under hood air? Also, I am adding a 'splitter-like' aluminum plate to stiffen up the front air dam, will this help a lot? Similar to how grannyknot did it: