Turbo72-240

Okay, now lets see if i have this figured out properly now... Here is a diagram that i just made and I do apoligize about the clarity of the picture.i dont have a scanner,so I could only take a picture. The diagram is of a pinout from the ecu to what is nessecary to make the car run properly I hope.if you can't really see the licture too well,please refer to the wiring diagram for the ECCS that I posted as well. The blue highlighted areas are the pins that I believe I do not need(I have a non egr intake without an air regulator) The orange highlighted areas are the pins that i do need. I broke most of the orange ones down that I need to specifically hard wire in,some of it may be questionable because my harness was previously hacked up before. I do not have a fuel pump relay, and the efi relay wires were cut previous to me getting the harness. The other "+" coil wire is my original tach wire so that would go to the "+" coil side, correct? Now with everything accounted for, please review the diagrams andet me know if there is anything I listed that is wrong, or you are uncertain about. Also, I would like to put qll of my ground wires directly to the "-" post on the battery because I would like to try to avoid any bad grounding issues. Would that be acceptable and work properly?

Thank you for the reply, I do have the CAS hooked up and i am gettin a very strong spark from the coil and the dizzy as well. I was not sure if both pins were supposed to have power to them. While I am cranking the engine none of the injectors are grounding out at all. I do have 1 na injector right now since I broke the cap on the turbo injector.I am not sure if that would have anything to do with my problem,I have tried it with that injectors unplugged with no luck still. I apologize about the grammar and punctuation, I don't have a computer and I am using my phone.

I'm having problems with mine and I'm not sure it is is working as it should,so is rather have a working spare just in case.if anybody has one for a fair price,please let me know.thank you.

UPDATE: I will try to fix the current injectors problem by completely rewiring the harness, please skip down to the 4th post for my diagram to let me know if I am going to wire this harness up correctly, Thank you.(: I just put an 82 turbo harness onto my motor and the ecu turns on,I have spark but the injectors arent firing.both pins have power to them at all injectors.I have read through the diagrams many times and I can't figure out which ground specifically the ecu uses to ground out the injectors.the only thing that I can think of is that I took that ground wire and gave it power somewhere where is shouldn't have it.I traced all my grounds and from what I can see they are grounded out well and I made sure thqt the - terminal is grpunded to the chassis as well...everything else that the ecu controls seems to be working well, I just can't figure out these injectors.it looks like the guy I just bought the harness from tried replacing all of the injectors plugs and wires at one point, so I'm not sure if he crossed a wire somewhere, I didn't tear that part of the harness apart yet just becaused they looked fairly new and i didnt want to mess it up. For now I just want to know if anybody knows specifically which ground does the ecu use to ground the injectors,then I will Chase that wire and hopefully find my problem.otherwise,I'm rewiring my injectors. Thanks in advance guys

Also,I may have the trim peices. I'm not 100% sure.ill take a look for you

I have the 3 way connector for the coolant lines.pm me w/ price and ill ship it tommorrow if interested

Would I be able to get a couple pics of it?I am very interested, thank you

Also,I just bought a turbo harness from here,so hopefully all my troubles will go away when I hook that up.I just have to wait on shipping.and for there not to be snow on the ground.

Yeah,at.fist I didnt have the efi.and to relays.I had to go back to get them. And I don't have a boost controller yet,so I just plan to run wastegate pressure for now...does that make sense?I was told that the boost pressure shouldn't be too high while just using the wastegate.so if that is true,I can temp use the j-pipe for now for less chance of leaks

All i need left for my swap is a working turbo and I should be set.it doesn't matter of it jas a little shaft play as long as it works.please pm me if you have one for sae.thank yku

Haha.well I asked my inspection guy if I have a newer motor in it that does require emmisions,if it would need it and he said no.they only go by the date of the car.i still need an emissions exempt sticker though....and when I do get it plummed back up,dont laugh at my ic piping...its temporarily pvc piping due to a lack of money.but regarding that,there is no air leaks,they are sealed very well.also,I am not sure if my problem would lie somewhere in the wiring harness...it may.i will explain how my ecu is hooked up,and you might have a better idea of what it may be.but before I describe how it is hooked up, just know that it runs and idles very well(after I tweaked the afm a bit) ...let me rephrase that...it starts when it wants to.there is no pattern at all.but when it does start,it runs and drives great... ..so here goes... First ill name all of the parts that are attached to the wiring harness.see if maybe im missing anything huge. Starting at the ecu I have the fuel pump relay, the efi relay, the head temp sensor, the tps sensor, the afm, all injectors.and I believe that is all that is connected off the harness.other than the fuel pump itself. I do not have a coolant temp switch/sensor.just the head temp switch. I believe the harness/ecu is grounded very well in 3 or 4 spots,with one going directly to the battery. For power to the ecu,I have the ignition and my electric fan powered to a toggle switch(just because I havent dug into my fuse box yet to get a good ign lead...the switch is only temporary). The power to the battery is straight to the battery.but there is the confusion that I dont understand.when I flip the toggle switch,the ecu does not come on...for the ecu to turn on I put power to each pin until the ecu finally kicked on.when it turned on the fuel pump primed for 5 sec like it should and the relays clicked...now the pin that I had to put directly to the battery was for one of the afm wires.so basically there is always power going to the afm for no reason.i still left that wire hooked up to the afm,but its also spliced off to the + of the battery...I apoligize in advance if that was jjmbled and confusing,but hopefully you can get the jist of it.my biggest problem with the efi swap was getting the ecu to turn on.i went over every diagram imaginable to no avail...just had to test every pin until it turned on.im sure that has a big part in the turbo problem...

I did plug up the pcv valve,but I did not do anything to the dizzy

I did not lock the mechanical advance,if I do that am I still able to use it on the na or strictly just for the turbo?...and a vaccum leak would cause that much of a problem?

Okay,so my car is frankensteined very much.it has a f54 block,p90a head,83 na dizzy,83 na ecu/wiring,83 turbo injectors,75 intake manifold. I made sure it ran good before I went and put the turbo stuff on it since I was running that block and head with my su's for awhile.after alot of messing around I finally got it to run right and idle smooth around 800rmps. So after it was running right,I put all of my turbo stuff on it which includes: turbo exhaust manifold,turbo,and intercooler.and of course the piping as well.i ran it through the 83 na afm since the turbo afm doesnt go with that harness. After I got everything set up, I went to fire it up and the rpms kept climbing very fast.i had to shut it off asap... What would cause that problem when it was running fine without the turbo,I bolted the turbo on and the idle climed very very fast and wouldnt stop...and there is no throttle problems.i put all of the na stuff back on temporarily and it runs fine again... Any help is greatly appreciated.thank you

Looking for stock t3 turbo, turbo wiring harness,turbo dizzy+int.shaft,oil feed line(original or braided, intercooler w/piping.please pm me with prices and shipping to 15675.thank you

Thank you,the harness is all cleaned up and looks pretty good tucked away.I took it for a test drive and it didn't to terrible,but a new problem did arise. After I got it running,it idled at about 5-600 rpms and it sounded like it was going to stall,but it didn't.I actually saw that the CHTS wasn't plugged in. I pliged it in and the idle went up to 1k,and very smooth. After that I took it for another test drive and this time it was horrible.it was spuddering really bad on throttle and barely wanted to go anywhere. So I played around with it again and took the and out of the intake system(but still left it plugged in,it wouldn't run at all unplugged).I barely pushed the flapper on and it stalled out. Would that be a cause of a bad afm,or the fact that the ecu is being powered by one of the afms plugs? Thank you guys.I apologize about the jumbled mess,I tried to describe the symptoms the best that I could

Okay,I was just messing around with it and I got it to work...I pot power to pin 35,which goes to the afm,and everything started working.i let it idle,and it did great until I turned it off...im not sure how it kicked the ecu on,but everything is functioning as it should. Just wanted to let everyone know I got it working,I dont know how that did it,but im not complaining.hopefully my car doesnt catch fire now.haha. Thanks for the help everybody.(:

Went back to the junkyard and snagged the efi and fuel pump relays along with pigtails.now for rewiring it in,hopefully it works.

I do apologize. Long story short, the only way I can get the ecu light to turn on is from the wire to the air regulator. The light only turns on as soon as it is connected, after that it doesn't turn back on. Is there a way that I can wire an efi relay and a fuel pump relay in myself using a 4 prong relay from autozone? Or would I be able to jump past them temporarily to see if I can get it started. I have the harness out of the car again so I can triple check all of the splices and connections, but everything checks out okay. I'm not sure what to do from this point.

Update: I tore the harness back out so I can trace everything and resplice everything.what exactly do I need to have for this 83 na harness and ecu to work on my motor?...I have tried jumping all of the wires that go to the positive side of the battery with a jumper wire and all grounds connected to the neg post on battery.none of them made the ecu led light come on.other than the grounds,I have jumped every wire to see if there is anythi NH at all and the only pin that made the light flicker is pin 21 to the air regulator.i otherwise, I amnot getting any power from ecu at all.please help.again,I dont have any relays hooked up because of my ignorance during the harness removal from the bay.i have 2 4prong universal relays that I bought in hopes I could wire them in somehow.i followed off of the keads from the fsm page ec80 to every connector and I cant get a blip from the ecu at all...

For now I have the fuel pump wired to a toggle switch because of me not grabbing the relays or even pigtails for them.so k am getting pressure to the injectors,it has 12v constant to all injectors as well.but no pulse at all.i was able to get the ecu to power on outside of the z by putting pin 25 to + of battery and a random ground from the harness to - of battery.the reason I used pin 25 was because I originally thought it was the power because it was green.that was my mistake,it was for the air temp sensor,but when I did that the ecu light came on and off each time I did that...so im assuming the ecu is if working order somewhat at least.but ive even tried taking all of the wires that require a + feed and put them straight to the battery with no luck.even the switched ignition.i cant get that ecu light on for the life of me.i have actually wired the whole harness going from page ec80 in the fsm.but I cant understand why it isnt turning on.to get it running I had to take the afm out so it didnt starve for air because the afm wasnt budging either...is there any specific pins that can be run straight to the battery for it to definately turn on?...and also,just to test my own theory I tried plugging in the "efi relay" pin straight to the battery in hopes for something,but I still got no response.

Sorry dex,I didn't see your comment.but I do have spark while cranking...and when I pulled the ecu harness from the donor car,I didn't find any relays connected to it,I didn't even have the blocks for the relay...I think I may have jumped the gun and cut them off when I was pulling the harness.I was trying to be careful not to miss anything though...right now I'm just trying to het it running.I picked up 2 4 prong relays in hopes that I could wire them up myself,but that is where the wiring diagrams are confusing me.I don't completely understand how the relay is connected.on top of that I found 2 diagrams that show the ecu and fuel pump relay wired differently.at that point I was reading through the "ecu circutry" and " ecu wiring"...

I do plan on putting the turbo back on that motor,I just need it running first before I worry about all of that.when I bought the motor,the guy didn't have the turbo harness,so I have to work with what I've got...and is page efec-80 in the fsm?...I have too many guides downloaded.thank you

I will start with saying that my 72 240z is a mutt.ill start naming some of the parts on it and will end with the problems I am having. F54 block P90a head N42 intake manifold(egrless) Turbo injectors Na afm 83 dizzy w/ e12-80 module Accel 12v coil Efi wiring harness and ecu from 83 n/a No relays at all in the harness. Thats about it with the stuff that needs mentioned,so now my problem is that I cant get the car to start on its own.it starts up great with ether,but thats not saying much.the ecu is not turning on at all,there is no led light coming on.i followed the wiring diagrams on xenons130 page to the best of my knowledge and snipped anything I though I didnt need.i probably screwed something up with that,but here is everything on the harness..6 injectors,afm,tps, and computer.that is all of the plugs.i have the thick green wire from the ecu to the injectors also going to constant 12v.the harness is grounded on the battery and intake manifold.i have plug 26 I believe going to ignition switched.that is all the power to the computer and there is no response.i have been looking through fsms and diagrams out the ass to no avail.i dont have a "pin 1" that goes to the battery or anything.it doesnt exist on my harness or ecu...as I stated,I am getting it started on ether.so the spark is good and I had to remove the afm temporarily because it restricted the air.but I cant figure out how I wired the ecu wrong,it wont turn on at all. again,the ecu and harness is from an 83 n/a. Any help would be greatly appreciated

sorry about the time in between, i havent had access to my email/internet at all for a while.but i have not resolved the problem, i actually do keep the key in the ignition, i just make sure i lock my doors when i leave it alone.i actually havent really messed with it much in awhile, ive been doing other stuff.i just got done swapping a zxt motor in it, but i threw the carbs back on because the guy didnt have a wiring harness to sell me....anyways, back on topic...while driving it i did notice that i actually can take my key out of the ignition when it is in the "lock" position, but my emergency brake light stays on.the only time it wont try to turn over the starter is when i turn the key quick enough that it doesnt have time to engage...but when i do that i just realized that the coil is getting very very hot...so im back to leaving the keys in the ignition...i will check the 2 wires comiing from the ignition(the red and red/black)..ill make sure those are connected properly.i just took the headlight switch off about a week ago and didnt notice anything odd...(other than the fact that i cant for the life of my find the location that one of the grounds go to...im not sure if that would be a problem, but it isnt near the ignition switch at all...its coming off the headlight switch, so i wouldnt think that it would cause me a problem.also, santanawhite, if you have figured out your problem let me know please...if i find my problem and get ahold of a phone or computer i will let you guys know if i found the problem.thanks alot for the help