Jump to content
HybridZ

Turbo72-240

Members
  • Posts

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Turbo72-240

  1. Thatd be great,depending on the extra cost.im on a fairly tight budget at the moment.but if the price sounds right for the whole lot,i cant let it slip away.haha.ive already list the opportunity for a full 280zxt moror swap for $400.i didnt have the money at all at the time.so now im going to try something of my own and try to make it work.but the main part i need is the manifold
  2. i have cash in hand, i would prefer local pickup but i doubt there is anybody in my area.i do not have a paypal account, but i can get everything sent over by walmart money center if needed.i will take one in any condition. if you can, please send a price, plus shipping to 15675.and i will get back to you asap. it would be great if i can get a decent package if you have it.what i am specifically looking for is the manifold,turbo,wastegate, and s pipe. so if you have all of that, please let me know, and give me a price on it as well.if possible, texting would be the best route, 7242195463.Thank you very much
  3. to dig a little deeper into the issue, i will try to explain a little more thoroughly. i didnt mess with my ignition switch at all, nothing got plugged or unplugged on my steering column at all...so im not sure if it would still have anything to do with the switch itself(unless it conviently went bad at the time i was doing the swap.haha)...but i putin the 77 280z guage in place of my 72 guage because i upgraded my alternator to a zx alt, and i prefer the volt guage over the amps(and my original fuel guage was a bit off, and the 280 guages is much more accurate)...but my situation is: on my old guage there is 2 thick white wires connected to the old guage(white and white/red)...which is the battery and ignition wires.those are the 2 wires that powered the "amp" meter.i actually thought it was a positive and negative wire because on the back of the guage where the wires go it it has a "+" on the white wire and a "-" on the white/red wire.so the first time i wired in the new guage i put the white wire on the positive wire from the guage, and the white/red wire on the ground wire...i tried turning on the z, and it did nothing whatsoever.so i did some more research and from what i found, i am supposed to splice the white and white/red wires together to form a complete connection.that is how it is currently, the car starts and i drive it to work and back with no problems...except if i take my key out of the ignition, the car will start.so i have to leave my key in the ignition on the "off" position.but the interesting part is that when i tried hooking the old guage back up to see if i still had the same problem, the ignition worked normally, i could take out the key without the car trying to start.so what i figured from there is that the "amp" meter had a coil in it that completes the circuit through the white and white/red wires...you would think if you just connect the wires straight together that it would do the exact same thing...just complete the circuit.but no, it isnt that easy at all.haha.i cant take my key out without it engaging my starter and starting my car.so i am completely stumped...like i said, unless my ignition just went at the wrong time...but the biggest part that i didnt understand is why the ignition still works correctly with the old "amp" guage in. let me know if there is anymore confusion, i tried to go as detailed as i could off hand.im a little tired too as well, so dont mind the bit of rambling every once in a while..like now.lmfao. thanks for the help guys.
  4. So i just changed my guages out for 77 280z guages and all went well until i started the car.it started up perfectly normal,i turned the car to the off position and my Z turned off as it should.but then i went to take my key out of the ignition and when i turned the key to "lock" to remove my key,my car started back up...so as of right now i cant remove my key from the ignition without starting the car(i can take my key out after i turn it to lock,but the z keeps running)...i dont want to be stuck leaving my key in the ignition all of the time,so please help me out guys.also,if it means anything,when i put the volt/fuel meter guage in my car i connected the 2 thick white/white red wires together like i had read about.but i havent been able to find on my current issue.thanks guys.any suggestion helps alot
  5. well, i have had quite a few already and im definately keeping the one i have now...but heres my story... i am 20 right now, but it all started a long long time ago.when i was growing up i always remembered stumbling across an old picture of a really old car, it was bright red and looked really slick...eventually i got curious enough to ask my parents about it and they told me that the car in the picture was a 1970 240z and that particular Z was the very first car i ever sat in because that is what i was driven home from the hospital in(backwards...apparently all of the gears were shot except reverse.)...so not long after that my father had to sell it for $100 to pay bills, and then 16 years went by before i ever saw another one.i was a junior in high school and i really didnt give a flying **** about cars or anything to do with them until i came home from school one day to see an 81 280zx getting dropped off in our driveway by a towtruck.i thought it looked amazing, and i fell in love with it, so i went ahead to ask my dad about it and he said that he ended up picking it up for $800 a few hours away and he has missed being into the Z cars......a couple months passed and the z didnt really go anywhere because the first couple weeks my dad went to get it inspected and unfortunately found out that the frame rails were shot.so my birthday was coming up and my dad asked me if i wanted the Z, and of course i was ecstatic about it(i didnt know anything about cars, frames, motors, anything at all)...so when i got back home i immediatly started messing around with it, fixing the floorpans, putting in new carpet(walmart carpeting), making my own homemade sub box(out of a wooden crate and an organ speaker....sounded pretty good for not knowing what i was doing.haha)...but eventually i managed to get my license and with the frame the way it was i wasnt going to be able to drive it for a long long long time(i was working part time at McD's)...so i threw it up on craigslist.i ended up selling it for $600 and after i sold it to the guy he told me that the motor had just recently been rebuilt.but he ended up keeping me up to date on everything and restored it and painted it cherry red...but anywho.that is it for my first Z.my next Z was again, from my dad.it was an 87 300zx that i got from them because somebody had totaled my saab and i didnt have any money to get another car.he gave me the 87 because he now had an 86 that looked pretty good for it being a z31.haha.a few months into having the 87, i ended up getting a speeding ticket in it going 95+...(127 to be exact), so because im a "jr", my dad has the same name as me and sold the car from under me even though the title was in my name....about a year passed and i had been looking and looking for another z and finally i found one.it was another 300zx, but this time it was an 86 with bitchy betty.right before i baught this Z for $800 my mom ended up flipping my dads 86 7 times because she was avoiding a deer...but she came out fine.(she just despises Z's now...shes in the wrong family then...haha)...but i got my 86, and it was a hideous gold color so me being the amatuer body man that i was trying to be i decided to try something other than spray bombing it...i did the rustoleum roll on paint job.and to be honest the black turned out great...then i decided to add lime green stripes and that was my downfall.so after that fun little project the transmission started slipping really bad in the mornings(it was an auto) i ended up trading it for a jeep just so i could get rid of it before anything worse happened...from that point i was REALLY REALLY starting to only like the s30's.i couldnt stand the body styles of the s130s or the z31s anymore.i grew out of them and only wanted any kind of s30...and about another year passed and i found my 77 280z on craigslist for $400 listed as a parts car.so i decided to try to restore it...almost $1-2000 later i saw that i wasnt really getting anywhere with it...this was coming up on xmas 2012 and i was upset because i really wanted to drive the car that i have been putting so much time, money, and definately blood into...but it just wasnt going anywhere....so now back to my dad really quick.within the past year my dad managed to pick up his final 2 Z's.first he picked up a 72 240z from a woman because her husband had recently passed away, and he was actually a priest as well..but the 72 240z he tried building up to make a replica of the african safari Z's.so there is custom bumpers all the way around, theres a roll cage in the back, theres some motor upgrades, new headers, dual exhaust, and my favorite big ol' silver titties.haha.there are 2 big rally lights on the front bumper that look like silver tits when your driving.but anyways, he got that z, and about another month later he found a 70 240z for the same price...so he was having issues with both...the 72 had an excellent motor, the frames have been supported and it was all around a safer car, but the 70 was the lightest out of all of them and he wants to put a crotch rocket to the test at a stop light so he wants to make a very quick 240, but the floor pans and frame was shot out on the 70 240...she he had to make a tough decision.he liked the 70 more because it was sentimental to him because it was his first z, and it is what i was brought home from the hospital in...so he ended up choosing to keep his 1970 240z, but it is now in the shop getting $5000 worth of framework done to it...and for the 72 240z, he gave that mighty fine baby to me so i can have her forever.he didnt want me putting anymore time or money into the 77, so he gave me the 72 so it would be much more worthwhile.so now my 77 i am parting out, and my 72 African Safari 240z is my daily driver and my baby, and i will have her forever.she may go through quite a few changes, but i will have her forever. so that is my history of z's and why i am intrigued with them.they really just run in my family. (:
  6. I hate to ask,but wjere are the fusible links on the 240?...i know where they are on my 77,but i havemt seen any on the 240.and my alt only has 2 bolts??same with my dads '70.because i replaced both alternators.and i just baught the battery less than a week ago,i know that they can go bad sooner than that,but when it first started happening i got the battery itself checked and it came out good.just needed fully charged.and the belt seems to stay tight,but it may just be getting loose very slightly to where im not noticing it...im stumped.i will vheck the fusible links though as soon as i find them.haha
  7. Sounds good,ill try that when i get off work.thank you.also,if it makes any kind of diffence.it has all symptoms of a failing alternator.all if my interior and exterior lights will slowly fade away,but as soon as i turn my lights off all power comes back.and when the lights are on i can rev up to ~4000 rpms then it starts spuddering really bad.but like i said when the lights are off all of my power comes back
  8. Turned out to be the water pump and ibgot it done in about an hr,right before i left.the hardest part was getting the radiator in and out.haha.but i made it to nc and back with only 1 new problem.....i got my alternator,starter,and battery checked and all tested good.but as i am driving it will slowly lose power and then eventually die.but as soon as i pull over,looses the alternator and pull it back as far as it will go and retighten it is basically fully recharged and then it all happens again after a lil while of driving it.im not sure what would cause this.does the belt loosen as i drive it?the bolts on the alt are very tight
  9. Turns out it is the waterpump,and i just got the new one in today,so hopefully i can get that put on fairly quickly.im gonna remove the radiator to get the pump out.and im going to throw some fresh coolant into it and then hopefully i dont run into more problems.i have read about the bolts busting though...i really hope that doesnt happen,because it seems fairly common.any other suggestions while im tearing the rad,fan, and water pump out?and btw,all of the hoses have been replaced in the past year,so knock on wood they are okay to last me a few years,hopefully more
  10. Well hopefully its simple enough as a rad hose.otherwise i may be replacing the waterpump.regardless,ill be learning something new either way.im going to check it oit today and let you guys know what the problem is.im hoping to get it fixed,because sunday ive gotta take it down to north carolina from pa.haha.
  11. Thats not bad,i would be doing it myself.i have read up on it,but havent seen anything about chocking the timing chain,how do i do that?thank you
  12. Also,i have a 77 280 parts car.would i be able to take the waterpump from there?i know i need a new gasket though if i replace the waterpump
  13. How bad is it to replace head gaskets on these?ive never done a head gasket,but as far as ive learned on these motors(well im more used to a fi 2.8...but its mostly the same i belive) they seem like very basic simple motors.hopefully thats not it though.and how do i know if the water pump is failed?by wiggling the fan?is that the only symptom of a bad wp?
  14. 72' 240z,i hve checked all hoses,pumps,radiator and everything i can think of,i cant seem to find where this leak is coming from.my z will overheat within a half hour of running and be out of coolant soon after.the area that it is leaking is somewhere above the alternator,and i can see fresh coolant buildup directly under the alt.well a little more behind on part of the suspension(i would be.more specific but im not too familiar with suspension parts yet)...it is the part that comes from the wheel and connects in the middle of the car.i apoligize for my ignorance,but i need to find this leak asap,because i am trying.to make it to nc from pa on sunday and i cant do that with my z overheating.so my question is what would be above the alternator area that would be leaking antifreeze?thank you very much.
  15. thank you very much everybody, i am going to look into carb tuning, valve adjustment, and choke adjustment.i am new to all of that.i appreciate the help, i just cant wait for it to run properly in the cold.either that or i cant wait til spring.haha
  16. what exactly does adjusting the valves do?, and ive only had my 240 for about a week, im much more used to my 280z.ive never worked on carbd motors, it is completely new to me even though it looks alot more basic.and i going to try cleaning my carbs and hope that works.i wasnt sure if the 240 has a cold start valve or an air regulator that i should check.
  17. i live around pittsburgh PA and it gets very cold in the winter.i went to start my Z a couple days ago and it has a really really hard time starting.i have to crank over and over while adding throttle for about 5 mins before it actually starts up,and once it finally starts up it runs really rough until the engine is warm.also if i drive it a couple minutes after i start it up it doesnt want to accelerate too well.if i lightly hold the gas it will be okay, but if i go to give it gas it starts to bog down until i release the gas pedal to where it was. any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you very much
  18. The tires do spin a lil when the clutch is pressed and the clutch is firm.so i may check that.and my z is fuel injection...so no carbs.haha. And i kniw when i was bleeding the slave i could move the clutch fork around freely.i have nit removed my tranny yet,but how do i adjust the pivot?and i did compare my old and new master.the old one was about 1/4 inch bigger.if i need to remove my tranny what is the easiest way to go about it?ive never removed a tranny and i do have a clutch as well for the car if ut needs it so i can do it all in one shot. Thank you for all the help and i apoligize about any typos,im writing from my phone.
  19. my car: 77 280z stock with k&n intake and exhaust picked up about 3 months ago, before i baught it, it hasnt been started in 20+ years.all fluids changed.gave it tune up.almost roadworthy(but far from pretty) okay, so my z is finally almost roadworthy one of the last issues is getting the clutch situated.i replaced the master,slave, and clutch line and i cant go into gear while the motor is running. i bled the clutch system, everything is connected properly, the slaves pushrod moves the clutch fork, but im not sure if it is enough movement. my question is: would the rod adjustment coming from the master to the clutch pedal cause grinding gears.i cannot go into 1st at all while the car is running, but the other gears i am only able to force into gear. do i need to give myself some more room on the master cylinder rod for it to go into gear properly?i dont have too much room to work with though, that is my only issue thank you very much also, while i am posting(so i dont have to make a new topic) what could cause the motor to choke when i hit the accelerator? it idles perfectly fine, but when i hit the gas it wants to bog down and choke unless i really pump the gas until it can rev up to about 2k.my guess would be something with the air/fuel but im not sure what exactly it would be.i do know that my intake is all solid with no air leaks(that was my first issue and i figured that out already) so i made sure there were no more leaks, so that is fine.there is new spark plugs and wires.93 octane gas with octane booster(because the car hasnt been driven in 20+ years and now its running again for the first time since then) any help is appreciated, thank you
  20. I also have a set of '70 240z seats in my '77 280z.they fit very nicely.as previously stated all you have to do is swap the rails.very easy,took me about 20 mins.but that was because I didnt have the right tools
  21. The biggest worry im having is the wiring.and a way to get my engine out.ha. I dont have a lift,and I dont have the best finances.lol...that and the fact I can only view this forum on my phone.i appreciate your input though.i do have to be doing something right though because I finally got her to run.she hasnt been started up in 20+ years.it was originally a barn find.then the guy I got it off of had it sitting for an additional 20 years.the only good part about it is there is 12,600 miles on it.
  22. I live in mt.pleasant,but I travel to greensburg,west newton,and all over western pa quite often.I would like to do a swap on my z,but I've never done that much to a vehicle.I would love to have somebody come check out my z(and id love to see theirs as well!)...but for the most part I'm a noob when it comes to tearing down the whole motor etc.but I am a huge z fan and I have a great project base to start from.it currently has a running l28 in it.I would like to do the l28et swap but there aren't any out this way I can find.so if I can't find a turbo motor id like to do a v8 swap.but again...I'm a noob in that aspect.I try to Do all of my own work and if I can't I research it...but a motor swap is a bigg jump.haha.
×
×
  • Create New...