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fyanrudger

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Posts posted by fyanrudger

  1. Agreed.

     

    Just pointing out that if care is taken beforehand, most of the bodywork could be sorted before epoxy and all the glaze filler steps can be avoided after poly primer surfacer. 

     

    Just did the following with my car:

     

    Down to metal.

    Bodywork.

    Epoxy - guidecoat - three small filler spots.

    Poly primer surfacer - guidecoat - 400 wet sand.

    Off to a professional shop for sealer/base/clear.

     

     

    post-32762-0-74681100-1443717997_thumb.jpg

    post-32762-0-06923500-1443718011_thumb.jpg

  2. If you do a good job you can basically skip all those filler steps at the end and go straight to sealer/base. Most of the "hard lifting" body work should happen before the epoxy, then you get two chances to clean up small blemishes. I also wet sanded the 400 before sealer/base...made life easier.

  3. Off topic comment, but your car is the exact color mine was and was...the 113 green from the factory and resprayed a factory-ish bronze/copper at some point in its life. Pretty funny looking at the photos and seeing essentially the exact same color combo as when I did my floors. 

     

    Good luck with the floors. It's not so rough once you get into it.

  4. post-32762-0-45851500-1442801820_thumb.jpg

     

    Above was shot on January 1st 2014, when she broke down and had to be towed home. It barely left the garage after that and it took 18 months of off-and-on work to replace all rust with fresh metal, cage it, strip it to metal, do all the body work, switch to all fiberglass parts except for doors, rewire it, and return it to the original 1972 factory color it came in. First car I've built on this level and I'm hyped to be near the end. Still have some work to do, but I have to go on a work trip for a week so this is where it sits now and I'm too anxious to not post a couple photos it somewhere. 

    post-32762-0-44016900-1442801851_thumb.jpg

    post-32762-0-67097300-1442801853_thumb.jpg

  5. I'm nearing the end of my ridiculously long paint process and looking to get some vinyl graphics similar to the ones on the front fender in the photos attached. Not the same colors (I can describe if necessary). A retailer that's printed them before would be great, but a vector file of the graphics would work, as well. 

     

    Any leads? Thanks!

    post-32762-0-67007100-1441692853_thumb.jpg

  6. The rear of your flare looks like it needs to be pulled forward more. The way it is now makes the big gap that S30s have behind the rear even more noticeable.

     

    Yeah, forward. Not a fan of when the back sits further back. Here's mine a few years back...

    post-32762-0-72337800-1435618276_thumb.jpg

  7. FYAH...

     

    Mature. Posts about 6k pound semi trailers, fitting six cars in shipping containers, duallys, and supercab Fords are the exact opposite of what I was asking about...sorry if my comment got ya.

     

    Like I said before, tons of good info in here. I'll be looking to make a purchase in the next couple months once I finish my car and the busy work season dies down, so I'll update it with what I get. 

  8. The problem with towing is that you dont want to drive a heavy pick up based vehicle for daily use.But any vehecle that claims it can tow 5klbs probably wont tow at max capacity for very long with out burning up a transmission or eating brakes.Going anywhere in California requires climbing passes like the grapevine and the temps can be 100f+ while climbing a hill.I have a 1996 ford e150 van.It works real good but its got a 5.8l engine and the same trans ford used in motorhomes.But it eats gas-like 12 mpg loaded.How many track days are you really going to make in 1 year?If you are only going to make 2 or 3 a year it might be better to rent something and leave the ownership headaches to somebody else.And you live in an urban area where space is tight and there is no place to park extra vehicles.I built a set of ramps for a guy that converted an old bread van with a diesel into a small race car hauler.It was a slow pig but got ok mileage.He had the same problem -no parking at home.He kept it at an rv storage.Try to find a light trailer with 4 wheel brakes.Make sure the brakes work.Electric brakes with an adjustable controller work the best.Basically you need a 1/2 ton truck for an open trailer-3/4 ton truck or more for an enclosed trailer.My stepson had a 1/2ton chevy 4x2 with a 5.3 and I really liked that truck.It had good power and would get reasonable milage empty.Toyota Tundras are known to be powerful-but eat gas.I have friends that report 12mpg in town.Post back when you figure out what you end up with.I like my van because I sleep in it-no motel rooms needed.

     

    Thanks for the info. You basically summed up my issue... I like small cars and I have no room for extra vehicles. I do only intend on doing a few (less than 10) track days a year. Still undecided overall, but right now I've been glancing at 2004 Land Rover Discoveries...7k towing capacity, not all that expensive, and somewhat tolerable for a daily. Reliable, though? Eh.

  9. The original stuff would be single stage enamel, no clear coat. 

     

    I repainted my fenders with the original paint code and cut and polished the original Persimmon Red on my 77 and the match was pretty much perfect. 

     

    Perfect. Thank you.

  10. Dumb one for ya. 

     

    I basically know nothing about painting a car, and what I do know comes from the internet, which contradicts itself every other url. But, with the help of a friend (who painted cars professionally a decade ago), I'm returning my car to its original 1972 Avocado Green color this weekend. As per my friend's instructions, I ordered a urethane basecoat from TCPglobal.com. He was unsure if I needed a clearcoat...I believe I do...or were the cars single stage way back when? They were Datsuns, after all. 

     

    Pic for clicks:

    post-32762-0-90152900-1432702411_thumb.jpg

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