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Posts posted by sileightygx
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6 hours ago, cgsheen said:
Luke - everything looks pretty much correct in your pics.
The springs should come with no pre-load. All the struts should be the same length. And the strut I have here is the same length (well, it's closer to 10 1/2 " "top of threaded portion to bottom").
7" spring, 1/2" spacer under the pillow ball, and the pillow ball bolted to the aluminum camber plate which is bolted right up to the bottom of the strut tower - right?
What's the measurement between the ground and your frame rails under the floor / seat area?
Your first pic doesn't look quite right (front tire fitment in the fender) and our experience has been as stated above - plenty of travel. Most of the installs we've done here we can get the frame pretty close to the ground if we wanted to. Our installs usually end up being close to stock height at the upper range of adjustment with about 3" of downward adjustment.
That's figuring the strut being screwed in a minimum of 2" at the upper range. We also cut the stock strut tube down to a nub - 1/4" or less - but that doesn't really impact our installs. We don't go down into that last inch anyway as a general rule. (Adapter tube is 6", minus 2" for minimum thread, 3" adjustment range, 1" at the bottom unused (the adjustment knob is there))
Your picture that shows the front lower control arm is skewed so I can't really see the geometry. Can you take a "flat and level" pic of it from the front? Do you have a roll center adjuster (bump stop spacer) installed? I'd also like to see a frame-to-ground pic.
First pic is our shop install on Patrick's 260Z front.
Second pic is Patrick's 260Z outside after the install (he's lowered it a bit more than we did since that pic)
Third pic is an early - SoCal car with our coilover set - Jorge did an awesome job, right?
Chuck thank you so much for the detailed post.
For the ground to the seam of firewall/floor just slightly above the rail it is 4 1/2 inches. I marked the below photo with how I measured.
Floor level picture of the suspension (you can see the coilover threaded to about where the inspection hole stops). I also do not have a bump spacer installed, and the nub left over from the original strut is about 1/2 inch.
Also awesome pictures! Appreciate the time you took to detail everything out for me.
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6 hours ago, seattlejester said:
Hmm if anything your flares look a little too low so that doesn't seem to be the problem. Your control arms almost look inverted which should indicate you are quite low. Is the sway bar hitting the tie rod by any chance?
Did you add too much preload? If you add more then the corner weight you can raise the car. It looks like you have plenty of shock travel, so assuming the shock doesn't bottom out you could get rid of all the pre load and just wind the spring collar down, although I'm not a fan of that personally.
The only thing else I can think of is what is your tire/rim size?
Also is did you by chance just install it on one side? The sway bar will act as a torsion bar and will keep the strut from compressing if it is say stock suspension on the other side.
It's probably the angle of the picture, but the control arm is parallel with the ground. There is no contact with any part. I didn't add any preload either, just tightened the spring lower perch barely hand tight.
I do not want to adjust the height via the spring either, and that is the odd part since others have much more adjustability with just threading the shock body down. All corners have the coilovers installed as well.
3 hours ago, 74_5.0L_Z said:Is the drivetrain (engine/transmission) installed? It will ride high if there is no weight in the front.
Yup!
1 hour ago, TimZ said:You said earlier that they were 6k front and 5k rear (336lb/in and 280lb/in respecitvely), so which is it? Length has nothing to do with "sameness".
If those are pics of your fronts as installed, it looks like you have at least 3 inches of adjustment left on the spring perch. Screw it down until you have the strut in the middle of its travel when loaded. Stiff 7 inch springs will likely not have preload at the ride height you want.
You are right they are 6k front / 5k rear, was just saying without any weight to compress them all the springs are 7 inches tall.
I could bring down the spring perch, but from others experiences I have heard of they have not had to do this which is the problem. So I think maybe the coilovers itself are too long (stance shipped wrong ones?)
I am not trying to super dump the car, and am just trying to figure out why the front height adjustment via threading down in the weld on tube is so much less than doing the same in the rear. Is that kind of adjustability normal with this setup?
If someone has a set can you kindly measure the front coilovers? Preferably from the top of the threaded portion to the bottom?
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1 hour ago, seattlejester said:
Did you by chance switch the front and rears?
I thought about that too, but measured all of them and they are the same. Would make sense since I believe they are four s13 fronts (could be wrong?). The springs are also all 7 inch springs.
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Thanks for the info guys. Yeah I really don't know wth is going on with this install. Engine is installed as well so there is weight on the front. Spring is a 7 inch spring. Rates are 6k front 5k rear. At first I thought my flares were installed out of wack, but measured from body and front is definitely way higher than rear. Just trying to eliminate some variables. Included the below pics of install:
Height
Threaded all the way into the stance 6 inch tube. The bottom of the threaded portion below the inspection hole on the side of the stance weld on tube.
Coilover is 16 inches in length from top spring perch to bottom. Shock body is fully extended.
Coilover body is 11 inches from top of threaded portion to bottom
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Any users have this kit installed with the Sakura Garage supplied camber plates? Did the installation on a 71 240z and with the coilover threaded all the way down into the tube the front is almost stock height. The original strut was chopped and less than an inch was remaining when the tube was welded on. All arms have travel and are not stuck on anything. Funny enough the rear is only threaded into the tube 2 inches and is way lower than the front. The springs have zero preload and aren't tightened more than hand tight.
Anyone run into this? Talked to a few people who had them and they have so much more height adjustability than I do in the front. The coils are the older stance super sport and are the same length on all four.
Thanks! Also wanted to clarify no blame is being placed, just some confusion and welcome tips or if anyone spots something amiss.
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Just got a chance to read through all of this and wanted to thank Tony for the AWESOME close up pics.
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Or we could do what many states and industrialized countries do - make the sniffer the #1 authority on pass/fail then if deemed necessary have a side citation method for having systems that aren't operable, such as EGR or EVAP.
But you're right Tony. If we just had to have what ever emissions system THAT car came with and have it in working order, then the goalpost stays at a static location and waters wouldn't get so muddy.
Would be nice if that was the case dangit. Many of my interests fall under this category, and have been tried on a friend's dyno smog for fun. Emissions pass, but fail for visual? Seriously...pollution is not the #1 concern here if the swap runs cleaner than the stock older setup. Rules are rules, you either follow them through proper channels or get creative and run the risk of bad times
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Several of my friends have bought from them including CA18, and several S13/S14 SR20s. We went each time to inspect the motor and have it compression tested in front of us. Since we were there we also picked out all missing parts from the preloaded motorset pallets. So if anything I would recommend going there yourself to pick out your motorset/clip rather than just ordering to be shipped/picked up.
You have to realize as well you are buying a USED motor with an unknown history. There will always be risks associated with buying a used engine from whatever place you buy from. I am not endorsing them, just wanted to put out that my friends and myself have not come across any issues.
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Any updates on your decision on direction to go with the rear end? Figured it was time to bug you for an update! haha
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Glad to hear you got it sorted out! Hope to check out your car someday at one of the local meets.
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Droooolll over the R32 and rally Z!!
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Good to see you are well motivated! Sounds like you have everything planned out well, and wish you best of luck. Keep us updated with how its going with your new L28ET
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Very nice progress!! I personally vote against an SBC and vote for any flavor of Nissan straight six..but thats just my opinion
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Dang that sucks man. Please let us know how it ends up when you get the official papers in the mail.
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Just read through your thread, and awesome work! Noticed I have the same welding face shield as you do..complete with blue flames too haha
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Dang sorry to hear that. I'll have to take a look into this FC-HAKO. Thanks for letting us know your experiences!
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Yeah that tiny bit of water won't do anything. Like it was mentioned, it was common practice to mist in water to steam clean out carbon. You have another issue at hand...how old was the gas in the tank?
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Awesome to see a great success story here. Love the color! (my s13 is sprayed the same)
Find out exactly why the RB20 gave up the ghost violently?
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Definitely a good heads up. I was thinking of buying the unit for tuning the SR in my S13 at home...but will wait to see how things go for you with the US distributor. Making map changes on the controller sucks...plus there are other settings only available thru the PFC software/datalogit
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Thanks Tony for the explanation! I actually haven't had any time to work on the car since I last posted, however will take a look today. It's hard to diagnose in the garage since it only heats up at freeway speeds, and stays at normal temps under 45mph or so. I have checked the temps on the thermostat housing/hoses with a temp gun, but that has also been at idle with no abnormalities. I have an old Omori temp gauge that I am going to install as well to get a better idea of the temp while the car is running at speed. Either that or pull over after the temps come up and check with the temp gun.
I actually have only used the heater in the Z once, and it is always left on Cold. I am going to check if there is coolant flowing through the heater still at this point, possibly the gate is stuck open..
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Possibly Performance Nissan or Raw Brokerage. They do not list on site, but I bet one of the two could order it for you. Always had good luck with them looking for OEM stuff.
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I will definitely be watching your build. That's an awesome assortment of parts man. As if the RB26 wasn't already badass by itself!
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Dang that breaks my heart to hear you are parting with your Z, and must be pretty good reasons for you to do so.
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Congrats! I missed you by a few minutes at the meet last night. Ahh I wish i could have heard the RB, everyone was pretty impressed by the sound.
Stance coilover kit, front woes :(
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Thank you Tim, I am having a bit of a dubious day so that is why I am asking you geniuses. Very good info you posted. This is why I do not want to start lowering the spring itself. It is setup without any pre-load and only hand tightened with strut at its max height and not lowered down at all so the shock has it's normal travel for this coilover.
The springs are different pairs, so 6kg/mm is the front pair, and 5kg/mm is the rear pair.