[Surging issue]

i second too that you should take a look at the AFM for starters. nothing changed recently right before it started surging?

['71 240z slowly progressing]

in dec '09 i finally found (had money to spend and space) my '71 240z. since then i have grinded away rust on the floors, applied some por15, started welding up replacement pieces for the holes in the floor, and managed to find time to install weber dcoe 40s, msd 6al, and 280zx n/a dizzy. my friend took a short vid of the webers today with his phone. i'll post more pics of the project, but for now i have the youtube vid he posted. stay tuned haha

 

 

[Is the fan that blows air onto the injectors necessary?]

thats a perfect answer for you! haha update your location too as its helpful for answering some questions and for sale posts

[70-72 vs 73+ slave cylinder]

makes perfect sense! im just gathering parts at the moment since im going to replace pretty much everything. i'll report back if there is any trouble, but i highly doubt there will be.

[70-72 vs 73+ slave cylinder]

thanks, but i already knew what part numbers are for what year. i was asking about changing over to the newer style slave/fork to get rid of the annoying adjustment on the stock slave cylinder. just wondering if anyone has done this, and had an easier time just adjusting the master cyl like any newer manual car. i show the part number for the master cylinder being the same for like 70-83 Zs, so im assuming if i change to the 73+ slave + fork there will still be enough adjustability by only adjusting the master cylinder.

[70-72 vs 73+ slave cylinder]

can they be interchanged? i tried searching since i thought this would have been something asked before..but i couldn't find any info.

 

i have a 71 with the original adj pushrod slave cylinder, if i switch out to a 73+ slave cylinder, will the master cylinder still have enough adjustment for proper pedal height/play? i believe if i switch to the newer slave then i would need to switch out the clutch fork for a newer one as well..

[weber triple carb manifold on L20/24/26/28]

thank you very much kiwi! i'll pull my manifold off and compare with his, have to change gasket anyways so would be interesting to compare the two.

[weber triple carb manifold on L20/24/26/28]

oh i had meant about intake manifolds being interchangeable between L20/24/26/28?

[weber triple carb manifold on L20/24/26/28]

no cool answer for me tony if the intake manifolds are similar?

[BRAKE UPGRADE QUESTION]

in order to run the 370Z brake setup, you would need a 19inch wheel to clear the diameter of the rotors/calipers if im not mistaken. not to mention custom brackets for the calipers, probably better off with the suggestions listed above.

[L28 Engine Reconditioning.]

listen for bad noises.

 

i love that part!

 

you can also put the car in neutral and use a socket wrench to turn the crank and see if it turns over freely with the plugs out.

[weber triple carb manifold on L20/24/26/28]

japanese S30s had an L20(a?) that was a straight six, my friend has an L20 triple manifold laying around and i wasn't sure if it would fit on a L24

[weber triple carb manifold on L20/24/26/28]

Hey guys,

 

Just wondering if a weber triple carb manifold will fit on all of the L series engines? Or is L20(L6) versus 24/26/28 that much different? Ive searched around and seen info regarding the engines we have here in the states, but not the L20. Thanks!

[Slavaged title...Bad?]

Just to shed a little light on registering a salvage vehicle in CA...I know you are in OR, but CA is pretty strict. I recently did so last year on a lexus as the car was in an accident, but I got it so cheap that it was worth to fix it. After the body work was done, i started the DMV paperwork in CA. They had me do three things...

 

1) VIN verification by DMV/CHP

2)Inspection by licensed inspection shop (ie: took it to local 76 gas station)

3)pay fees and done

 

The inspection that was done was only to check for obvious frame damage, headlight/running lights/brake lights, and brake pads. Pretty sad inspection..and VERY easy to pass. Of course the car must be running to have the inspection done. I did not have to show any kind of paperwork on body work/repairs done, as it was mostly done by my friend and myself..

[It is ALIVE!!!!]

VERY nice setup! Please keep us updated as you do the tune on the "mule" haha, interested to see how long she lasts at 400rwhp.

[Roll cage for 280z]

Not to contradict your opinion of safty, which I totally agree with, but I was just looking at the 2010 SCCA Rules.

 

http://www.scca.org/documents/Solo_Rules/2010_scca_solo_rules.pdf

Quote

 

1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless ERW or DOM

mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent, or alloy steel

tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended that roll bars not be

constructed of ERW due to quality and strength concerns.

 

 

it is even mentioned that they should not be constructed out of ERW for satefy reasons. why gamble with your life? if you are gonna get a cage, get one that will stand up to the worst case scenario you could possibly have. its just money anyways, your life is worth it. just my two cents..

[first time datsun owner ( my new project)]

have you tried just removing the door liner on the inside and moving the door latch hinge by itself?

[nasty ding in my hood]

i was ready to look at a picture with something seriously mangled. that is definitely fixable! if you dont have the tools or experience, a body shop can repair that for not too much.

[The Start of a Long Journey]

my friend you are doing a good job removing that horrible kit!! you will definitely learn a lot repairing the car, and probably some good father/son time haha. congrats on the purchase! an awesome first car, just be sure you get a tetanus shot! lol

[please tell me my car isnt toast!]

Your Z isn't toast... but it could be a Biscuit

 

 

LOL

 

 

yeah man you have to get it on some jack stands or a lift to check it out. no way of telling without pictures of the underside and exterior. what was it sitting there for 8 years for? were they in the middle of fiddling with the suspension and then stopped?

[So heres my 1st Z !!]

congrats on the Z and welcome to the forum. should be a fun project! planning on swapping the 4spd for a 5 or just going to leave it?

[Best performance shops in california and florida]

http://www.aspecproducts.com/

 

 

a-spec is also in southern California. my friend has wholesale account with them, so i know the prices are pretty competitive. good luck!

[The start to something awesome #2]

any pics of the repair job you did around the battery tray? curious to see how you did it fromt he explanation given. in all VERY awesome setup, and i wish i had some sexy triples as well!

[Original 1973 240Z 5-spd]

if you are looking for things to buy you can browse through the "Parts for sale" section,or can post a WTB in the "Parts wanted" section of the forum.

 

if new shocks there are so many places to look, MSA, Blackdragon, ebay, etc etc.

[Need advice from people who have own Z cars]

i would say the same as the others too. the red flag words i saw was "unemployed" and "2x0 Z" haha. don't get me wrong, they are "reliable cars" if in like new condition. with a small budget to start with, most likely the car will not be and you will need to repair/fix/troubleshoot/spend spend spend to get it to that condition. i would suggest getting another cheap daily driver car and buy the Z as a project. Do things that don't require money, like grinding/sanding the body, etc and work on it slowly till until you can pour money into it.