icarus

i am running the stock L28turbo injectors right now. i have been running these all along, and i was daily driving the car for several months using whatever settings that i currently have... so i would imagine that they must be correct or else it wouldnt have been working fine for so long..? i am going to see if i can find exactly what they are though, gonna go look through them when i can get to my MSlaptop later. where are these located exactly? i dont recall having to set up any PWM stuff, other than just setting it to use 'peak and hold' (i.e. low imp) injectors...

no, i dont have any resistors in any of the +12v running to the injectors. heres a quick sketch (or 'paint') of how i have them set up... no resistors, and no fuses in line with the injectors as it sits now. the +12v to the injectors comes from the MS Main Relay...

i am running the stock L28et injectors on this rig... this was the first MS harness that i built and i just realized that i didnt put any fuses in line with the power leads to the injectors (as is called for on the MS diagrams ive seen) would this have protected the board? but im sure that couldnt have CAUSED the problem because popping fuses isnt supposed to happen either... what would cause a 12v spike? once i replace the Q9 transistor should everything be fully functional again?

i found another ... thing... of interest. was inspecting the board and noticed this; a piece of circuit path in the board appears to have overheated as well, it was darkened, and when i touched it the surface material flaked off a little so i could see straight copper path... and this strip is of course directly on path to the burned PWM transistor Q9 (is it on path TO or is it on path FROM?) im really hoping that this was just a fluke bad chip that caused a little bit of superficial damage to the board and once Q9 is replaced itll be all good... anyway, again, any input will be much appreciated.

i have a dodge/chrysler pack, my wire colors dont match any of the diagrams ive found but my plug looks just like this one so im using your pinout youve got here (disregarding wire colors listed)...

haha, yeeeeah. so my s130 (L28et MS1v3) broke down on me a while back after several months of daily driving on a new MS setup. at first i thought that it was a spark related problem caused by a really shoddy temporary fix that i used in the harness that went to the CAS in the zxt dizzy... so, assuming that that had been the problem i proceeded to just tear out the whole dizzy/spark setup that was in there as i had been meaning to set up my EDIS for some time anyway... but NOW i popped open my MS ECU to put the MS-II board in there (to run my new EDIS setup) and i discover that one of the transistors in my PWM circuit has gone and BLOWN UP on me. it was part #Q9 on the illustration below: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/v3components.gif the little "chip" is like fractured and almost half of it was floating around loose inside the case, the floating piece was just the plastic housing. all of the little metal 'guts' of the chip still in place but seem like they may be sorta melted/damaged, although i cant honestly say i know what they are supposed to look like... my questions: 1: what could have caused this to happen? 2: would this have caused the car to die? a couple facts that may help solve the puzzle; i drove the car for several months before this happened, without changing anything. when the car died it was running normal/great then just out of nowhere sputtered and puttered out (on the freakin onramp/overpass to the freeway:icon56:). after this, it would not start again, at all. i believe my foot was in it when it did so, but it wasn't wrapped out all the way or anything. while cranking it in my garage later i noticed that the front three injectors were leaking and pouring out a little stream of vapor and/or smoke, but i dont know if this was pre-existing or not. the front three and the rear three injectors run off the same inj harness primaries (i.e. 1-3 off inj batch 1, 4-6 off inj batch 2). any input is appreciated. my only real concern is that i perhaps have something setup wrong that will cause it to happen again after i replace the part... or maybe its just a fluke..?

i don't suppose that you would be willing to sell the spoiler? and yes, you should have saved those "side spats" they came out really nice, are they fiberglass pieces? that you custom molded?

i have this strange feeling like ive spent some time in the little red s130 in question here... i have a turbo swapped s130 in the garage now getting its latest round of work done; got the motor fully rebuilt, megasquirtII, EDIS-6, full new harness to match, wideband, intercooled, 3" exhaust, 9lb flywheel, walbro 255, adj fpr, fuel rail/lines, tokicos, coilovers, FENDER MIRRORS (YEAH), HIDs...and tons more junk.. really just need big turbo and injectors bolted on to make some nice power... if i werent so lazy itd be done already, but i was just recently told about this meet at golden gardens on the 29th so im gonna get this thing buttoned up, at least enough to limp down there.. also, there was an l28et on CL for $350 a few days ago in tacoma, there is a "full swap" listed for $750 up here in the EVT but that includes the supersweet auto tranny (which i assume you wouldnt want).. and i got a ton of extra parts that i guess i could probably spare, a full extra megasquirt setup and f54/P90 motor and etc... but i digress, if you would have me, i would be obliged to offer my assistance. or at least let you play with mine. so you can try before you buy, if you will. at least something to think about. -brian

i fell in love with this car years ago. it was the inspiration that sealed the deal on the first z i ever bought... which of course led to zeds number 2-9 (and counting). ive been meaning to ask though, which wing is that? i am considering it for my current s130 project... is it the MSA one? if so i do not believe that they come with the center LED brake light anymore(?)

im installing some 8000Ks in my s130 as i post this... im going to put them in these (http://www.jegs.com/i/Wysco/938/WA7403K/10002/-1) h4 housings i have. i am not terribly impressed with the housings. they are... OK. ill see what i think of them when i get the car back on the street, which will hopefully be in the near future. ill follow up to this (with pics) when i get the install finished...

stumbled across this old thread while searching, for something completely unrelated actually... but i digress; i unintentionally ran one of my L28ets in my s130 without a thermostat for several months due to the PO not having one installed for some unknown reason. it would take a long time to warm up and would never quite reach an acceptable operating temp. it was when i opened her up to install a 195F thermo i had picked up to hopefully cure the problem that i discovered that it had not had any thermo to start with. also, i have heard horror stories of people actually breaking things in pistons due to running with no thermostat. cruising down the freeway in the icy winter with no thermo can cool your motor down pretty quick. and some have reported massive damage due to cold piston slap. i believe they were running forged pistons in the rig, which would exacerbate the problem of course, as well as make it much more costly. i dont know if they were intentionally running no thermo for their "racecar" or if it was just neglected in reassembly..

hi all, so i have seen several (a surprising number actually) z31s in my local junkyards of late (but alas NOT ONE of those dang longnose r200 3.7 lsds) and in looking over them it seems like the starters on the vg30e/vg30et is very similar to the later gear reduction starters on the L28s... are these parts interchangeable? just an observation that has made me curious...

as far as i know the "BRE style air dam" IS the little chin spoiler. the other one, the full air dam, is the "xenon" one... that is usually how i have seen them referred to anyway. my guess would be that they are known as "xenon"s in the US because Xenon makes them over here, but probably are based off of an earlier Japanese-made piece? both the 'BRE' and the 'Xenon' come in vented and unvented. and the 'Xenon' comes in the s30 and the s31 styles, the difference of course being the cutouts for the underbumper turn sig/marker lights in the earlier year cars.

this stuff looks great! ive been keeping an eye on your progress on this project intermittently and slowly preparing myself to embark on my own EDIS setup, but now that you are offering these i cant resist. you can count me in for a full setup; trigger wheel, sensor mount, and coilpack mount... will need it shipped to Seattle, WA area zip 98204. i dont suppose you have a preset deal for the whoel package? if you could give me a quote for the total cost including shipping and everything as well as your paypal account i can send money to ill get you the payment asap. much thanks, brian

thank you brad, i just needed to know if the stock zx turbo 5-bolt pattern was the same as the "ford" 5-bolt, thats all that i was trying to figure out... boardkid, here is a link to another thread on this forum where someone has used this 'ultimate internal wastegate' on their s130 (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124360). scroll a ways down the page and youll see his pictures of this wastegate unit. you can clearly see in the pictures that this is FAR superior setup to most, if not ALL, of the internal wastegates commonly available. i see what you are saying about upgrading the turbo itself, and i will certainly be doing that in the future, but i was hoping to be able to upgrade my downpipe/exhaust now and then bolt it straight up to my new turbo when i get there... but no such luck it appears. you mentioned that you too are looking for a turbo/performance upgrade while maintaining an internal wastegate setup. so i think that you should not be so quick to dismiss this as a good (if not the best) prefabbed option.

so i have been lusting for this 'ultimate internal wastegate' (http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-023&Category_Code=WGT1), because the amount of fabwork and the space limitations of my s130s engine compartment have discouraged me from setting up an external wastegate system on my L28et powered zx... at some point i will be upgrading my turbo but for the time being i am using the stock garret (oil/water cooled) turbo that i am told is from a z31 turbo but is identical to the later units used in the s130 turbo cars. my question is rather elementary, and here it is: does the garret turbo in my car use the "ford 5 bolt" pattern that most (if not all?) of the non-OEM garrets use? and thus, will the ultimate internal wastegate bolt up to it? ive been searching but have been unable to find how to distinguish between the different 5-bolt orientations. so im hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. much thanks, in advance. -Brian

UPDATE: i now HAVE SPARK. after putting another whole weekend into this, as of late last night i have spark. now, dont ask me WHAT the problem was because honestly i couldnt tell ya exactly, i am thinking that it has perhaps been a combination of things all along. one of which was discussed in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=911570#post911570 well upon CLOSE (like microscopic) inspection there was a tiny little fiber like a single strand from lint or something that was indeed still jumpering the BP to the heatsink. i am not sure that it was even enough to conduct ANY significant amount of energy (it really was seriously tiny), but i scraped it out of there. but what i last did before the long awaited appearance of spark was just went through, cleaned, and 'reheated' all of the solders in the ignition circuit as to sortof rebond the solder with the connectors and hopefully get a better contact. i also REjumpered R43 (soldered a short across the leads of the 330ohm resistor that i had there, the one included with the BP chip 'kit') for the first time since i replaced the original BP chip. i did all of those things late last night during what i told myself was my LAST time tearing down and messing with this configuration before scrapping it and figuring out another way to get spark. and by golly when i plugged her all back in and cranked her over i got spark so strong it jumped nearly 3 inches and burned my knuckles (i have a spark plug connected to the lead straight off of the coil, before the dizzy, for testing). it burned so good. so i have spark! now i just have to get it to the cylinders and timed. when i hooked the coil wire back to the dizzy i was getting just some random missfiring very occasionally across random cylinders. i am sure that i have to mess with my trigger angle settings and perhaps the physical orientation of the dizzy again. but it was late last night and as far as i was concerned i was victorious already, so i decided to call it a night. luckily got a day off today (very rare) so gonna go play with my car in a sec here. i am going to try to run these settings that moby posted to get things started up: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/untitled9.JPG

as you can probably see in the picture, i applied... well, liberally gonna get a non-conductive compound (like ceramique) and use a VERY small quantity to avoid any squishing around the edges at all.

that wasnt the problem for me unfortunately but for others' purposes i guess ill say that this HAS been the case for some with the Bosch BIP373. it can apparently be EXTREMELY sensitive to being accidentally grounded to the heatsink. so make sure to insulate it thoroughly. here is what i did to test, i unscrewed the BP from the heatsink and bent it upward so that it was not at all contacting anything, and mine still isnt sparking for me, so this wasnt my problem i guess: on to try other things i suppose...

ok i have another thread that details my megasquirt troubles here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136325 but i have a specific question here that has arisen from stumbling across this post on a random other forum: the BIP373 has a metal backing and must therefore be insulated from the heatsink to avoid grounding it out, a mica plate is used but is the silver-based heatsink compound conducting and grounding it out? is this plausible? could this really be the cause of all of my trouble not getting spark out of my MS running the Bosch BIP373 direct coil driver?? i just used a tube of heatsink compound that i had laying around from my last computer build, thinking it would suffice, here is what i used: i guess it would be nice if this was what was causing all my headache...

well how about this 'kit' http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=21937&cat=0&page=1 ? my main concerns are power/torque capacity and weight is of some consideration if they vary widely; as mentioned above^ i have seen a ridiculous amount of controversy on this subject, have done a lot of research myself, and have decided to go with the lightest FW i could get my hands on. from what i know/have gathered: the FWs purpose is to store rotational energy. it resists both speeding up and slowing down and exerts all if its force to keep the engine moving at a constant speed (rpm) basically. a lighter flywheel will have less force to exert, i.e. it will not inhibit the engine from speeding up/slowing down as much. a lighter flywheel should therefore allow MORE control and freedom to fluctuate engine speed rapidly. the only areas where this could be at all considered a BAD thing are: 1; launching from a stop. i have heard of drag racers actually using HEAVIER flywheel assemblies to 'store up' as much energy as they can at the line by getting that FW spinning fast and then dropping the clutch at high rpm to get a nice launching effect from the tree. this works because that big heavy flywheel stores up all that energy and resists reducing speed with all of its power when it is engaged to the driveline, which help jolt the driveline up to speed faster. 2; an excessively light flywheel (as many would argue my unit above is) can make it very difficult for around town kind of driving, traffic, etc. basically the same principle as above. this is because if you do not change your driving habits the lightweight unit can be much touchier and often stall when starting from a stop as (at the same speed/rpm) it is going to exert much less force to get the car started moving. light flywheels for the turbo car: i have heard many argue that the lightened flywheel is a CON for a turbo setup because it reduces the load on the engine and therefore spools the turbo slower. i believe this to only have any effect when the engine is in neutral/disengaged from the driveline, while engaged to the wheels at wide open throttle the engine will be encountering the same amount of resistance, load, no matter the weight of the FW it is only a matter of how much of the power is being 'spent' where. with a lighter FW more of the power will be going to the wheels and not 'spent' spooling up that darned heavy FW. and as we know, the turbo is spooled by volume of gas(air) moving through the engine>exhaust system, which is directly effected by the load on the engine. you wont be able to build much boost when revving your engine in neutral in the parking lot very easily anymore because there will be a fraction of the load on it. so itll be harder to show off your BOV but i think most would agree the improvement in engine response will far outweigh.

hi eric, thanks for the help... yes this was a unit that (when i picked it up off of the previous owner) was setup to run FUEL ONLY with the 'original B&G firmware.' i have ATTEMPTED to convert it to a direct coil driving FUEL AND SPARK setup by following the steps above (/repasted below>) here is how mine is setup for direct coil driving, it looks the same as the setup for MSD you listed above... Single Coil Direct Drive Output for a V3.0 PCB These instructions are only suitable for single and twin spark outputs, for more than 2 sparks see the mutiple output section Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!!

just got this beauty for my L28 turbo> 4.3kilos = 9.47 lbs chromoly ...im sure you are all familiar with this unit even though the nine and a half pounds alone is a massive loss in weight from the (what 24ish lb?) stock piece i suspect that the rotational load will be reduced even further due to the majority of that mass being so far inboard...? it is a 225mm fw, as opposed to a 240mm turbo/2+2 size. now what i am looking for is a clutch to match up with this baby on my l28et powered 280z. my goal is to be putting 300-3??hp to the wheels with a crank hp approaching 400 as i tune and upgrade other components. really i am just looking for a quality unit to hold the 300-400hp/ftlb range that i am shooting for. also i am trying to keep weight in mind ( to stay on the low rotational mass theme). brands, stats,weights,sprung versus unsprung units??? any input/advice/commentary? (i put this in the L6 forum because this unit is specifically for the L6s...i hope it is appropriate ) oh, also gotta plug Brian and Z Car Customs: http://www.zccjdm.com/ dont know if any/how many are familiar with this operation yet but he has been a pleasure to deal with. thanks for reading guys, Brian

some pics: NOTE: the BIP373 came with a 330ohm resistor to put in R43, i read in the msmanual that most people jumper r43. i have tried it both ways, in the pic of the backside of the board you will see that it has been jumpered across the leads. oh and YES i used the mica insulator between the BIP373 and the heatsink, and i used some 'arctic silver' i had laying around from my last computer build other than that all i have done to modify the board from the B&G fuel only to Msns-e setup is what i noted above^

hello all, well i have been searching and troubleshooting and researching for weeks now and have finally decided to call for help... the setup: 76' 280z l28et ('83; p90a(converted to solid lifters),CAS in dizzy...pretty stock right now) MS1 PCB3.0 (attempting to run msns-e) GM Air temp sensor stock water temp sensor KA24 TPS msd blaster 2 coil/ stock zxt coil (tried both) ... i think that that is all of the relevant info background on the MS unit: i bought this MS unit lightly used from someone who was running it on their Z as a fuel only B&G software setup. it did not have the high current ignition circuit even installed when i got it. i flashed the unit to MSnS-E, soldered in the bosch BIP373 (alternate for the older VB***), and followed the steps outlined here: http://diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm my laptop seems to be communicating perfectly fine with my MS now here is the problem: i got no spark! the blue led (led17) is flashing for the "spark A" my coil has power (12v from the fuel pump relay) my base timing is set as per moby's instructions: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88246 spark output IS inverted... what i have tried thus far: i have connected a spark plug directly to the wire that goes from the coil to the dizzy (for testing purposes) i swapped out the original BIP373 for a second one thinking that i had perhaps fried the first/it was defective i have checked and rechecked my solders and cleaned them at one point when i pulled the entire dizzy off to turn/trigger by hand i noted a VERY weak spark that was almost invisible but i could hear the slight crackling when the plug was removed and held against ground... i am just lost, could this be a software setting problem? firmware incompatibility that would run everything perfectly except spark? is my MS board physically setup wrong? what all components need to be in place for the ignition circuit to function? i assume my optical/trigger circuit is working because the sparkA led is flashing (when it should be)..? i will post a couple pics of my board in a bit perhaps something is missing? you all are better at this than i am. i am just lost and getting really discouraged with this, any/all help is much appreciated. thanks for reading, Brian