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PanzerAce

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Posts posted by PanzerAce

  1. Fairly straightforward. I'm looking for a pre-smog car with a good/great interior and exterior. The engine, however, doesn't matter to me as it's going to get swapped, so as long as it gets around, I'm interested. Colors I'm not especially interested in: brown, dark green.

     

    If you've got an ad up on HBZ, link me. Otherwise feel free to email photos/info to panzerace@gmail.com.

  2. What's caked on the inside of your hood?

     

    Glue/insulation from a hood blanket the PO installed. It had to go considering I was driving this baby regularly in 110+ degree weather :o

     

    Find a new shell. Transfer the goodies. Fix all the little things that bugged you on this one. Glad no one was hurt.

     

    That's the plan. Find car with a real nice exterior and interior but a crap or busted engine and swap the L30 into that.

     

     

    Tough hit. I tend to agree with wickiewiked240z, the front is tweeked but finding another shell is challenging and costly to get to a good rust-free state. I bet it can be straightened.

     

    Biggest advantage for me is that I'm in California, so it won't be excessively hard to find a new car that's clean. Hell, the flaking paint revealed that the metal was basically in as it left the factory condition.

  3. Just found out that as my mechanic was bringing my 240 back from an exhaust shop to re-tune and dyno it (after I had gotten a fresh Rebello built engine) that a lady ran a red light and totaled the Z. No people were injured, and we've got a police report on the incident, and her insurance is covering everything, but...damn :(

     

     

    I know I haven't posted in forever on this forum, but I figured you guys might want to know that there's now one less Z on the road :(

  4. *dusts off the account, coughs a bit from all the dust that's built up*

     

    So after losing my job, moving, being unemployed for a few months, and now having a job again, I finally have some money to spend on my Z. The problem is that while I have the money now to do stuff, I don't have my tools (no room for anything more than a wrench/ratchet set where I live now), nor do I have any time to work on the car myself. So, I'm looking for a good performance shop in the San Jose area that can do carb -> EFI swaps, engine swaps, etc. I'm aware of the Z Car garage, but last I checked they were fairly backed up with work, so I'm looking for other options as well. (Bonus points for a shop that really knows how to tune mikunis for the time being...)

     

    Thanks in advance guys.

  5. unfortunately, most of my tools are in storage a good 150 miles away right now, so I can't test voltages, I have to just go by the ammeter in the car :/

     

    From what you're saying though, since the ammeter never indicates that it's doing more than running the coil/plugs, guages/etc, that it's likely to be the alternator rather than the battery?

  6. So, I'm fairly certain the problem is with the battery, but I figured I'd run it past you guys first. Problem started when I went out to my car, got in, tried to start it....and nothing happened. ampmeter didn't twitch, electric fan didn't come on, nothing. I figured I'd left the lights on or something, so I jumped it, took it for a drive, and noticed that the ampmeter wasn't indicating that it was charging the battery. It was holding steady just above the 0 mark, where it would be if I was cruising with a good battery. When I got back to my house, I started the car again, did fine. The next day, same problem, no power at all.

     

    I'm figuring at this point that since it ran fine once started, that the battery is the problem. The only issue is that it's only a few months old. So is there any other way that the symptoms I describe (no power at all, runs fine after a jump, alternator not charging the battery) could happen?

  7. Well, based on my reading on pulsejets when I should have been doing other stuff (like writing my senior thesis), I'd say that it *will* work, but that any thrust you gain from it will be offset by the drag that it will cause.

     

    Also, is car exhaust even hot enough at the tailpipe to make the most use of the augmenter? I know that the pulsing will be fine (if slow relative to what pulse jets operate at), but I'm not sure you're going to have enough heat to make it worth it.

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