PanzerAce
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Posts posted by PanzerAce
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Stupid question, but it's late at night and I feel like crap, so I can't think very well, but...
What are the differences in mounts between auto and stick shift '78 Z cars? This comes about because my LD28(T) swap is going to be in front of a regular Datsun/Nissan five speed, but the car was originally an auto. So...are the engine and trans mounts different? Only one of them different? Neither different and I'm just being stupid (This being the likely option at this point in time)?
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Don't get me wrong, I thing any Merc aside from W201's and W124 500e's are Buses. The W201's and E30's both fought like Dogs for many years (I personally am of the belief they were basically equal cars, but the E30's were piloted by better drivers) in DTM. I've always loved the W201 because it's relatively light for the time period (featherweight for Mercedes) even for a 4 door and It can handle (and run if poked with the right bit of persuasion) in a way that far exceeded its appearance.
In Europe I always see BMW and Benz like Ford and Chev here. Love one hate the other. Why cant we all be unified? Against Audi...
Hey, I happen to like Audi. I know that they supposedly have terrible electronics, but the only problems that my family had with our '97 A4 2.8 quattro (well, only problem untill it was totaled) was the two bad start motors it got.
(that being said, don't get me started on the stuff *not* covered by the maintenance intervals...like the damn fuel filter....or how fracking idiotic the mounting for it is...)
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Well being not dead is more important than figuring out how much power I can throw at a tranny before it pops. So do that first (I feel you though, I've had all sorts of respiratory infections for the last week)
And I guess I'll start taking pictures again. Sigh. You guys are making me be productive.
rgr. The V6 trans (720.620?, can't remember right now) is according to sources good to around 450whp, but beyond that is kind of a crap shoot, just since it's never really been tried.
Oh, and as if coughing up lungs wasn't enough, I'm also trying to avoid hydroplaning into a semi, what with the inch and a half of rain in two days...
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If you get an offer from anyone, take it (in my opinion). The job market is still *really* bad. The only reason I didn't stay in for my masters was that I wasn't sure what I wanted to go for.
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Speaking of M104 stuff: Mag, I haven't gotten info on that 5spd you asked me about, I've been busy trying not to cough my lungs out. I'll try to get the info for you by the weekend though.
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Better than cat claw mark accents:fmad:
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How do you know what the temperature is for each valve when adjusting them hot, and what that spec was supposed to be? At least if the engine temperature is stabilized, the temperature is the same from start to finish.
I guess if I'm going to go to the trouble, I'd rather have the valve-to-valve settings consistent and just worry about being in the ballpark for the absolute measurement rather than the other way around. I just don't think that there is any real extra "accuracy" to be had from adjusting hot, and more potential pitfalls.
Nothings going to break if you are a thou off in any case - Nissan spec'ed it both ways, so do whatever makes you happy.
Well, one advantage of triples is that I can listen to figure out which valves are off before I even pull the valve cover. Obviously, some of the others might be slightly out of spec, but in general, other than one or two valves, it's usually just a quick run through to make sure everything is still to spec. Takes maybe five minutes tops if you've got help.
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I've never quite gotten the problem people have getting the hot measurements... Drive for awhile, stop, pop hood, remove valve cover, use starter to turn the engine, and it's easy.
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That's easily the only modern car that I actually like the look of.
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Hmm...
We are looking into it.
And a diesel subforum by any chance *crosses fingers*
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Fubar, I think you're going to have some problems with a DI setup on a stock LD pump, considering that it was designed for the significantly lower pressures required by the original LD IDI setup.
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....what?
I was going to suggest searching for your question, but I'm not even sure if it's about Z cars. Punctuation and some basic grammatical structure would help in getting your question either answered, or re-directed to a more appropriate forum.
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One thing I hven't seen mentioned yet is the fuel pump. If it is out of a 260Z, then that means (IIRC), that it will NOT work with a fuel injection setup. The purpose of those pumps was to prevent people from vapor locking their carbs, and as such only give a few lbs of pressure.
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One thing you can also do is run a can of seafoam through the tank. If the injectors are clogging, that might be all you need to clean them out.
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Look at his User Name, Look at the Brand Name....
Geddit now?
Oh. Doh.
Hey, it was 2:17am when I posted that, gimme a break
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....I don't get it....
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Before my Z stopped running I was on the interstate and I took a random glance at the oil pressure gauge and it read 0. There was no sounds coming from the engine bay and when I pulled off the side of the road I checked the oil and it was still full, I had it towed home anyways because I'm paranoid like that.
That's why I love the spray bars over the internally oiled cam. If I have a question as to if I have pressure or not: Unscrew the filler cap, shine a light in, and there's an oil stream *right* there if I do have pressure, and none if I don't.
Car: I probably wouldn't have cared *quite* as much if it was a stock L24, but this is a rebello built engine, *and* my only transportation untill I get the LD28(T) swap running.
Though I am going to start looking for a halfway decent running L24/26/28 to rebuild and then stick in storage in case the current engine ever bites it...
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It isn't looking like it's too serious. Pulled apart the oil system yesterday (even though I was still sick from the quick inspection/wait outside the night it broke), cleaned everything up, inspected the cams, etc. It doesn't look like there was any permanent damage.
That being said, I already know I'm going to be *very* paranoid about sounds I hear from under the hood, atleast for the next couple hundred miles.
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Well, if you're not opposed to messing around with fabrication or electronics, take a look at the HE351VE. Nice and inexpensive, and a VGT to boot
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Um......as clarification, what are you looking for? If you're looking for the dimensions on that ITG backing plate, I've got one next to me that I can measure. (I'd offer to sell it to you, but you're a ways away on the shipping charge
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I was driving home from a buddies house down some back roads, everything's been good so far...glance down, and.....no oil pressure. Zip, zero, nada. As I'm hoping it's just a problem with the sensor/guage (since it was fine that morning), I hear that high pitched, rhythmic squeak that we all fear. Shut off the engine instantly, coasted to a clear part on the shoulder, and called AAA (11pm at ~35 ambient? thanks but no thanks).
Not going to have any idea what happened/what the damage is untill I start pulling it apart tomorrow, but hopefully it isn't too bad...
If it wasn't for the fact that money is tight, I would view this as a great time to start my M104 build/swap, but as it is...
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Orphan, no M104 tech site AFAIK. If you want (and Mag is ok with it) I can copy + paste all of our M104 related PMs into a .txt for you. Lots of info, but it'll be difficult to read because of the conversational nature of it.
That being said, if you (or mag, for that matter), have any super specific questions, I can take them to my MB tech buddy when I go over to his place tomorrow.
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It's happy time in my pants...
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Mag's last point about his choice selection is what made it for me as well: cost. M104s are god awfully cheap compared to any other I6 option that I know of short of an L series. Displacement helps the choice, but in the end, the cost is what makes it *my* personal choice. Obviously, places where RB engines are more available, That's going to skew things in their favor, to the point that if I was on the other side of the world, I'd probably go RB, simply because people know it far better.
That being said, M104s might be even cheaper for you guys than they are for us. There's some Korean company that's still building them under license that sells a bunch of models (and has for around a decade) in australia.
But enough derailing the thread. b/w the 2JZ and the RB26,I would go with the 2JZ, for the reasons I posted on the first page.
:fmad:
Stupid question about engine and transmission mounts...
in Nissan L6 Forum
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Actually, I was completely unaware that the early ones were different. Thanks for the info. Now my tired brain can get (a little) bit of rest