vale2489

Ok...the swap isn't for a z car but hopefully some of my nissan bretheran might have one of these intakes available. Needs to be from an s12 200sx w/vg30e motor... No other variants will work for my project (more like I don't want to make them work). Pm me if you have one of these.

The oil pump shaft was 180 off!!! I have no freakin' clue how that happened, I am perplexed how it ran fairly well in the parts car ( even with a huge hole in the efi intake manifold that was plugged up with crud). Im still a tooth off but it atleast runs now, probably gonna have to rebuild the carbs but I'm happy with some progress finally. Thanks for the input, looks like my next step is open a credit line with ztherapy.

I'm lifting the pistons up when spraying into the carbs...timing sounds like the next step. It just seems like if the timing was off it would still pop...Is the timing different enough from an l24 that I would need to re stab the oil pump shaft? I'm using the transister ignition also...Should I just hardwire the coil?

Yes, as well as good spark at the plugs.

Picked up a rusted out 280z donor car with good motor, got it to run on with efi intake on it ( just with carb cleaner through the tb). Pulled that motor and dropped it into my other car with su's slapped on it...I have spark, timing has not been changed/messed with , new plugs, wires cap/rotor fuel not hooked up yet...im just looking for signs of life with starting fluid until i get a low pressure pump. I can't get a single pop out of it, firing order has been checked several times....I am stumped to say the least. Car/motor are 77'

No turbo, forgive my ignorance but there is no way they can interfere with exhaust valves correct? ( I have never had an n47/p79 apart)

I was degreasing the motor out of my parts car and noticed two of exhaust port liners are pretty darn loose...Do they need to be secured for safe operation?

I don't know why everyone rips on the sound of a 4 banger...yes a six is more robust, but an sr20det (with stock exhaust manifold) has a distinct head turning "growl" not as peaky or as obnoxious as other turbo 4's. As far as sexy sounding sixes, l28et's are about as blah as you can get...slightly better than a tractor, the turbo "whistle" is it's only saving grace in salvaging audible interest. Having messed with sr's and et's I lean towards sr's from a performance aspect (stock vs stock) and weight savings. I dont see how wiring and tuning ms is much easier than wiring in an sr...if you had enough know how to setup up ms and properly tune your setup wiring up hybrid swaps shouldn't be a deal breaker.

I'm already kicking my self in the ass going with the pacesetters after having to modify every single one of those stupid spacers they come with... My next issue looks to be being able to hook up my msa twice pipes.It looks like there is little to no room to join the headers to the exhaust once the transmission is on ( maybe with some really scrawny u-bolts). My buddy has a set of 3-2's ( unknown brand) and a mile of room between the bell housing and the collectors....are my pacessetters bent or are clearance issues the norm with them? Engine is f54 block and p79 head into 77 280z

At that boost level I wouldn't worry...an fmic is never really a bad idea at lower boost levels, but sometimes the bling factor outweighs the benefits.

No longer a available

Found what I'm looking for, thanks Borini!

Im too lazy to post the link to my thread on wiring help, search for my threads under my username... Seems like my harness was way worse and i still got it to go with help from cgsheens posts... I had issues other than wiring in the end and ended up bagging it but was very helpful info.

Found a transmission. Thanks bsmuwk

I did have a bad ignitor at first, swapped in an hei setup and it fired...solved that, then after that no spark, i did the cas test per cgsheens instructions on another post and found it was bad. I swapped in the n/a distributor i had laying around and it popped and back fired, looks like it didn't time the oil pump shaft correctly. Ill get it timed and roll with it until i can find another turbo dizzy.

For those of you running an n/a distributor on your l28et, are you running it on an 82-83 harness? The reference I can find of someone doing it is Krumm on the wiring sticky and I believe hes running an 81 harness ( with the crank mounted CAS hooked up?)...My concern is the timing not being the best once in boost ( im keeping it on stock boost for a while), my reason for doing this is I have a bad CAS and the pick'n pulls dont have anything from a vg30e i can pull ( unless an older pathfinder one would work). Also are you supposed to leave the vacuum advance unhooked? The ideal of getting rid of the CAS and it's faultiness sounds nice.

Yeah, no joke on the electronics being a pain in the butt...ive owned a few mg's and this car has been making lucas (aka prince of darkness) electronics look good . Idaho has been a great place to live but the winters are getting old, I do enjoy the liberal smog laws though Thanks for the info on the CAS, i really want to get this stuff figured out before I swap in the z31 ecu/maf setup.

Cleaned up a few grounds and re-soldered a few connections and all injectors are firing and almost idled well. Still would hesitate/stutter/ backfire given any throttle...any way, i was so proud it would fire and idle i went to fire it up to hear it run and lost spark! I replaced coil/ hei module and still nothing. Im guessing CAS is the culprit? Also i noticed some people are running n/a distributors...is that a good alternative if my CAS is bad?

One other thing, ive read some info ( very possibly missinformation on other forums) that if the tach is not hooked up it can cause issues also?

Ok, that makes me feel better... I guess im not used to turbos being in good shape, lol

Ive checked all the connections and they look surprisingly good, but a good scrub and clean certainly would not hurt...the battery terminal wires are pretty bad and are soon to be replaced.

Slowly getting my l28et 280z going...ive turboed an n/a 280z and have had several sr'd 240's and with an open down pipe the turbos are very audible, with my current z i hear nothing ( took off the turbo inlet to check the turbine, spins freely and minimal shaft play, no oil in inlet tube and appears to be in really good shape) just curious because my last turbo 280z was very loud ( a good loud)

Found a working fuel pump in the heap of spare parts that came with the car, fuel getting to fuel rail now but runs horrible. All injectors are clicking but one, gettin 12v constant on both sides of plug when not running. Would a clogged injector still try to pulse or does it shut down altogether?...when i was running the car on starting fluid all cylinders were firing. I thought this was gonna be a wire it up and go project...boy i was wrong,lol

Yeah, I blew off the green light comment on zdriver. Turned out the ignitor must have gone bad,i found a goody going through extra parts... the PO had a gm hei unit all put together so i wired it up and the car fires everytime now ( w/ starting fluid...new fuel pump on the way). The pictures make it look pretty bad but most of the connections are correct, ive been doing alot of cleanup and looks much better now. It fires right up and idles surprisingly well, but alot of hesitation when given throttle... Will dig into it more when i have a working fuel pump. Thanks a ton for the help so far!

Went through fuel pump wiring, getting power for 5 seconds with the key in 'on' position, no fuel pump prime...hard wired the fuel pump and doesn't make a sounds, time for a new one. Also, is this the ballast resistor? It connects to the bottom of the distributer (near the CAS I believe) I thought it was fried so I ran the wires straight with no resistor and it got really hot, put the resistor back for now and doesn't get hot. Could that be part of my no spark issue?Would the GM HEI upgrade eliminate the need for this?