winfab

It does help, but the "should" clear stock suspension still leaves me unsure. There has to be someone who knows for sure, no? My goal is to be running Tokico shocks, Eibach Pro Kit springs, and either the 17's, or I may just settle for a set of RB-R in 16x8. Essentially, to solve all issues, I can run a 17x8.5 front and a 17x9.5 rear, correct? What would the correct offset be in a 17x8.5, same at -13mm? Is there another thread anywhere, that people have posted pics of their rides, and actually posted rim size and offsets? Thanks! Jay

Sorry, after reading this whole post, has anything like this been done, as far as breaking down what works with and without flares, tire sizes, lowering springs, and offsets? I may have missed it as well, its quite a lot of reading LOL... Thanks Jay

What was the offset on these wheels?

I'm not sure, since i still dont have the tranny bolted up all the way. However, when i did the test fit, i had it jacked up pretty much where it would be, and I didn't have a problem getting the yoke on the tranny. Can you take a picture of the tranny mount location, and the problem piece thats in your way? If you want, you can email me at winfabtuning@gmail dot com directly, so its faster correspondence. Jay

Well the guy that had the diff flaked out on me, so now it looks like i have to buy a whole 280Z just for the differential and such. If anyone needs some 280Z parts, PM me with your email address, and when i get the car i will part it out. Jay

Looking for a R200 from a manual trans 280Z, with all the extra parts required to swap in to an early 240Z. Differential moustache bar transverse link stub axles I am in the Detroit, MI area, so hopefully someone in the vicinity has these parts avail. You can PM me or email me at hondachips@gmail.com Thanks! Jay

The Tilton I used was the 75-875U. I kept the Tilton pushrod because i figured I would need more throw using the 7/8" rather than the stock MC, that's all. If i need to cut it down to size, then I can, but with the Datsun pushrod, you can't make it longer if the clutch on the LS1 won't disengage all the way. Jay

I'm not necessarily looking for the cheapest route, just the most feasible. Most of the time people sell the mustache bar for as much as a whole differential! Yeah im gonna switch to the R200 for sure. Just waiting on the guy selling it to get back to me. Thanks for all the input, really helped me out. Looks like I have a diff swap in the near future. Sucks too, since the motor is in and wired. I still have the fuel system to tackle though, so that should keep me busy for a while. Jay

I just want to be sure that its gonna sit back further than the R180 I have in there now, so i can use the driveshaft that Johns Cars sent me without cutting it down an inch. If i remember correctly, even if i was just swapping the differential by itself, I would have to use the longer 280Z driveshaft as well.

Well i have found a R200 from a 76 MT 280Z, with everything incl. stub axles, moustache bar, etc. and it should have the 3.56 gearing in it i believe. Even if the pinion dimeter and bolt spacing is different, JCI said they could send me the right one or I could send them the driveshaft and they would swap it for me. Have to wait to see if the guy still has it though.

So i have an early '71 240Z. Fitted the LS1 in the engine bay (the JCI mounts work great BTW) and get the trans (T56) in place, try to fit the driveshaft and its too long. Buried the yoke all the way into the T56, and still at least 1/2 inch too long. So, it seems that since I have the early "forward-mounted" R180 differential, then I have one question for you all. In theory then, if i swap out for a R200 differential, moustache bar, hanger, etc. this should then set the R200 back one inch or so, then my driveshaft will fit properly? Cheers Jay

I used the Tilton and its mint. One word of advice though. Grab yourself a 5/16 x 24NF tap beforehand, because you will have to tap the factory clutch pedal clevis threads to this size. Grab a nut is the same thread as well, as these parts do not come with the new Tilton piece.

A quick question about alternator placement issues. I have a 2004 C5 Vette LS1, complete with all accessories, going into a 1971 240Z. I know that people say to swap the Camaro alternator and bracket over to the Vette block. However, the belt runs about 3/4" closer to the block on the Vette. I am wondering if I can just swap the crank pulley, and tensioner pulley over from a Camaro LS1, and run the Camaro alternator...this should essentially make everything line up? It looks like the water pump sits out the same distance as the Camaro one, so the belt should still line up with the Vette oil pump. Anyone have any comments, or have done this and had enough clearance? Thanks! Jay

Found another post about options for fuel delivery: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103464&page=2 Still wondering what to use as a pre-pump filter? I've read that I should use a coarse filter (~100 microns) as to not make the pump work any harder than it has to. I was planning on using a GM filter, like the 82-up popular one, with the NPT lines on each side, but then i found out that it is a 10 micron filter. Any recommendations on a filter?

If anyone is interested in getting this done to their tank, there is actually more places than Moyers who performs this service. Here is a link to the website: http://www.gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm And a link to an inexpensive sump: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200334166156&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem= Also, for anyone using the Corvette regulator/filter, and the external pump, what did you end up using for a filter before the pump?

The Daewoo tank is out of the question, since I do not own a welder of my own, and would have to pay someone to do the work. I am going to go with the Moyers treatment as posted above. I talked to the guy from that post, who had sent his tank out, and he said it worked excellent. He had no fuel starvation issues, even in tough autocross applications. Think of it this way....why would I cheap out now....I mean, I've already spent the money on the LS1/T56, mounts, rad, headers, wiring harness, ECM, suspension, fuel pump, regulator, filter, etc. Whats another $350 when you're already in it for at least $5k? LOL Jay

I don't want to remove the spare tire well, or I just would have went with a fuel cell. I think I am going to go this route: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119761 Not too much money, and the tank will fit like stock cause it is! For the cost, its right in line with installing a cheesy Summit fuel cell, and since I already have the Walbro pump and Corvette filter/regulator, this is all i need. This is actually a good deal for this amount of work, I called a local shop, and they quoted me over $800 Canadian Dollars ($625 USD) for the same work. Just shot him an email about a rough estimate on the work, waiting to see if I get a reply.

Yeah i saw the CE sump on Summit, around 70 bucks. There are 2 models available, one has 3/8" fittings and the other is 1/2". Since the stock Corvette line is only 5/16" i think the 3/8" would be more than adequate. So being two connections on the sump...one is for the fuel feed to the pump, and the other would be the return from the regulator? I have already purchased the Walbro 255 in-line pump, and the Corvette regulator/filter. If I go the sump route, then all i would need to purchase would be: - fuel tank sump kit - roll of 3/8" fuel line - assorted fittings What about venting the fuel tank? Thanks so much guys, great help!

So I can use the stock Datsun return line, and I would just have to make a new fuel line from the 5/16" end of the Corvette regulator, all the way to the fuel rail? Could I also use the stock Datsun fuel feed line from the tank as well? Why would I have to add a seperate sump? Thanks Jay

Not sure on what to do for the fuel system setup. Should i go with a fuel cell, or is there a way to retain the 240z tank? I plan on using the Corvette regulator/filter, do I mount it near the tank or in the engine bay? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Jay

Yeah i did some research on the master last night...seems the one to get is the Tilton 15/16" one, so thats in the Summit wish list LOL....

Yeah i can get everything listed for $1500 US. Not too bad of a deal. For the price of a full LS1 dropout, I can grab this stuff up and have lots of cash leftover for the fuel cell, gauges, differential, etc. Just want to make sure that it can be used together before i scoop it off of him.

He is throwing in a few gauges, i would need to buy the Autometer speedo and rev counter. Starter is included. As for the fuel pump, i will need to find one still, along with the fuel cell/sending unit setup from Summit Racing. The motor was running in a car, before it was pulled. He told me that when he bought it, he checked the compression and all 8 cylinders were very close to each other, and the compression numbers, though he can't remember exactly what they were, he said that when he researched them that they were normal for that motor.

Sorry, should have clarified that he doesn't have the stock LS1 bellhousing, just the McLeod one. I figured I might sell it and look for a stock one, maybe make a few bucks, or a trade plus cash or something to help offset the cost of everything, that is, if I end up buying it all from him.

Hey there. I am new to this swap for my early '71 240Z, but I have been doing my research. I have a chance to buy some parts, etc. from someone locally, and here's what he has available: -99 LS1 motor, coil packs, accessory brackets, alternator -98 ECM w/complete harness -95 LT1 Borg Warner T-56 -LS1 T-56 input shaft, front plate, throw out bearing/slave cyl. assy, and clutch -McLeod LS1 bellhousing -Willwood master cylinder (not sure if it will work for the Z) My question is will I be able to use these parts for the swap? I think I have everything to mate the tranny to the LS1 block. Just wondering if everything will line up properly when using the John's Cars mount kit for the LS1. He was planning on dropping this in his RX7, but has since run out of cash. I can pick all this up for a great price, but I don't really want to get all of it, then realize I need to spend another 1500 on stupid parts here and there (on top of the price of the mounts, rad, etc. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Jay