azZdriver

Well I just adjusted it without the Trigger Wizard seems to be spot on with a 68 degree advance. How close does this need to be? I'd guess it's close to about +/- .5 degree, should be good enough? I just marked nail polish on 0 and on the trigger and they seem to match perfect. I should mention that other people have had problems with the Trigger Wizard, so I just set the Advance to be Fixed at 0, and then adjusted the offset until they matched.

Hey you're in Phoenix, can I borrow your car!

lol good idea but I don't let anyone borrow my car. Nobody that has ever need to borrow my car could drive stick anyway, kinda nice. Anyway, I'm using the Trigger Wizard, but it's stuck at an advance of 5 degrees, although the Timing for Advance degrees is set for 10, since 10 is easier to set at (since it is labeled, but not at 5). It's also set at fixed timing. Why can't I get Trigger Wizard's advance to either 0 or 10?

Ok so I found a right up on how to do this: Tools -> Trigger Wheel. Sorry for the useless post.

Ok I have been trying to set the timing. I believe I have MS2 set to read ~60 degrees BTDC. I am getting backfires and some popping, think from the intake manifold. In order to get exact timing I am using a timing light and trying to adjust my Trigger Angle/Offset to get MS2's led light to match the timing light. Is this the best way to go about setting the timing? I attached screenshots of my settings. Timing 1 + 2 or my settings, and then there is my Timing Advance Table. Also, would it be a good idea to just set a fixed timing advance of IDK, 15 degrees to get her to start? Then mess with the timing table later.

So this is probably a stupid question, but how can I tell the timing that Megasquirt is reading? Is there an output gauge or something? I'm not seeing one, I am running Tuner Studio. I do have spark and fuel, but still not starting.

Thanks. I'll have them tested some where. You know of a good place in Az to have them checked?

I think my injectors may be bad. I removed a couple and read the resistance at 0 ohms. Does this mean they are bad?

Hey sorry, haven't been on here in a while. How's the car coming along? I'm still stuggling with my MS2 install myself. Finally got some backfires though!

I want something that will last, and don't mind paying between $100-$150 if it'll be worth it in the long run.

I'll look into seafoam once I get her to start, thanks for the tip. I do smell gas, so I believe I'm getting fuel, but I need to buy a timing light with my next paycheck. The body of the car is in pretty good shape, and for the price it's amazing really. Just a pain that relay's are bypassed, wires are missing, other wires were added. I'll get some more pics up. It has some rust around the front window, and a black door and fender on the other side. The interior is good other than the dash. Much more fun that my non-turbo 2+2, even though I only drove my turbo so few miles. I just don't like the look of the 280zx 2+2.

Here is my car. It is not running. I bought it for $625 not running, then after a tune up a lots of little things it started. Drove it for about 10 miles around town while I was still working on it, and one day it just died, acted like it wasn't getting any gas. The wiring on it was a nightmare, so about 8 months back I took some extra student loan money, I mean some money I'd been saving, to buy Megasquirt 2 for it. I got it all hooked up over winter break, and now over the summer am working at getting it going. So far I have fuel and spark but she still won't start up. I'm going to go through and try tuning from the beginning again. Also I had a friend with a shop take a quick look at it but wasn't much help (this was before I decided to get Megasquirt for it). He did say that I have a sticking valve that may work itself loose, wouldn't that be nice, but I plan to have the head redone once I get it started. I wanted a project car and I certainly got one.

I'm no expert, but I'm in Gilbert, also Megasquirting my car. Maybe we could help each other.

Hey I'm in the same boat, with trying to get MS2 working. So I share your frustrations, I finally got spark last night! Still won't start, but getting closer. At least the weather is nice there, it's getting to be too hot to do anything here...

Ok screw it, I bought a GM sensor, it's reading correctly.

OK I tried a few things: new wires to sensor, replaced vacuum hose to MAP sensor, reset MS2, put the settings in again. The erratic behavior is gone, however my temp reading is over 160 on a cold engine. Also there is a typo above, forgot to type the negative sign, my settings are: 2490 -10c/14F=9K ohms 20c/68F=2.5K ohms 50c/122F=.84K ohms

I am running TunerStudio and set Thermistor values as follows: 2490 bias resistor value 10c/14F=9K ohms 20c/68F=2.5K ohms 50c/122F=.84K ohms

I am using MS2 and the relay board. Even with the cylinder head temp sensor removed I am getting the same false readings. It reads 0 degrees F then jumps up to the sixties randomly. I have also posted over on MSEFI.com but have not found the solution yet.

I've got a few manuals, I need to learn how to read wiring diagrams! Thanks for the help.

I believe the thicker solid green wire is ground?

I have a '82 280zxt, and I'm not sure how to wire the injectors. There is a thick green wire and a thinner green wire with yellow stripe, which one is ground, which one is power?

Ok, thanks for clearing that up for me!

I know almost everybody is using the 240sx throttle body with the its TPS for the l28et running MS. I might be mistaken, but did I read some one posting saying they used the stock sensor? Is this possible? I'd like to get my car running, then upgrade the throttle body later.

I just picked one up here locally, but thanks guys.

Anyone have an engine wiring harness for a '82 280zxt with a manual transmission? I believe an '83 would be the same? Thanks in advance, Chris