azZdriver

Well I found a shop so hope things will go better this time. Wish I could work on it myself just apartment living doesn't allow that. Thanks for the advice.

I have a 280zx turbo, probably more work than it's worth but would like to be able to have shop look it over. Any one know of a good shop in Phoenix, preferably close to Gilbert/Mesa? A relay has been bypassed, there are some wires cut and some one ran a wire to the fuel pump. I'm going to vent quickly here: It's sitting at a shop now where it's sat for 3 weeks and been worked on 2 hours. After talking to them yesterday to try to know when it will be done and how much it'll cost and them not telling me anything, and my friend that was there with me asked sarcastically "Is there anything at all you CAN DO?". And now they say they aren't going to work on it and I have to get it moved ASAP. Thanks all.

Yep, it was a fusible link. Now on to all the other things she needs!

Thanks for all the tips guys. Lots of PB Blaster and persistence finally got it off. The bar holding it still while cranking was absorbing a lot of the torque being applied, bent it up pretty good! So I thought that was the hardest part. Turns out the outer wheel bearing was in such bad shape that it came a part upon removal. Unfortunately that means the outer part of the bearing is being quite a pain to get out. Finally gave up yesterday, today it's getting cut out. Sure glad I started this job Friday. Thanks again guys. I appreciate you all taking the time to help me out!

Ok I'll try heating it. I'm replacing the grease seal and inner and outer wheel bearings. Anything else that should be replaced or that may be damaged by heating? Thanks for the help guys.

I borrowed an air impact wrench, SOB still doesn't budge. lol Looked so easy when reading over the manual. Gonna dump some Marvel Mystery Oil on it and try to find 5 or six foot piece of pipe for leverage, but yeah it's most likely going to the shop Monday.

Lol, alright thanks.

I'm hoping to not have to have a shop work on it, it is my only way of transportation. Didn't think it'd be so hard to get it off. Guess if Sunday comes and it's not fixed I'll have no choice though.

Is that a bigger wrench?

Any tips on getting the rear wheel bearing lock nut off? I am using the FSM, and what they call a Rear Axle stand, so the axle is not moving. Just can't get the lock nut to loosen, even using a piece of 2 foot pipe over the socket wrench. By chance is one of the wheels reverse threaded? I'm working on the rear passenger side. Also, the car is a non-turbo, in case the rear ends are different.

Thanks, will do

It is a '81 280zx non-turbo and has a new alternator but for some reason the battery still drains while driving. I know it is while driving because I disconnected the battery when not driving in case there was a short some where that was draining the battery. Any ideas? Also, tried to post in Troubleshooting but wasn't allowed to create a topic there.

Moby, thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I am not getting spark when connected to the dizzy either. Is there a way to test the BIP373 coil driver? If it were bad the JimStim shouldn't show ignition. So that is probably not the problem.

How can I see if MS2 is sending the signal for the coil to fire?

When I set the timing, I found TDC on compression stroke for cylinder 1 by looking where the dizzy was pointing. It did not match up with both valves being closed, as was revealed after removing my valve cover. The car has not started, but had spark before. I used a timing light to set the timing the first time. After I got my valve cover back on and tried to dial in the timing again, now there is no spark.

I had spark, I took my valve cover off and saw that the dizzy cap was not pointing to cylinder one's spark plug wire when in its compression stroke, so I rewired the spark plugs. I must have messed something up though, now I have no spark. Been working on it for a few days now, not sure what to check. The coil tests good, and is new. Using JimStim, I believe MS2 to be sending the signal for spark, I connected a wire from IGN on the screw terminal and touched it to IGN 1, and the LED blinks. What should I check next?

When I set my timing I found TDC by looking at my dizzy, but today when the valve cover was removed, it seems that the dizzy is incorrectly installed. When the dizzy is pointing to cylinder 6, cylinder one is in it's compression stroke. Gotta clean up my valve cover, and fix the dizzy.

How can I know if my dizzy is set right? I set my timing by getting my reading to 0 degrees BTDC, and checking that my dizzy was pointing to spark plug wire for cylinder #1, BUT it did seem to be a little past where the spark plug wire is, so could it be that my dizzy is out of place and so I am getting weak spark?

I will post my .msq up tonight, I'm at work right now. There is spark, but ironically now that the timing is set there isn't any back firing. Also tonight I will double check my coil is good, last time it showed a good resistance but that was a few weeks back. The spark plugs are brand new and covered in fuel, so I doubt it's a fuel problem unless there's way too much getting injected.

Yeah I realize you don't need the TPS, just am not sure where else to go with my car, so figured I'd clean up the TB and get the sensor mounted, since I have it. Is there something major I am missing? I tried squirting starter fluid down the intake while cranking, and got nothing. So must have something wrong with the timing still ?

Ok that makes sense now, thanks. Yes I have fuel, spark, and my rpm's are showing ~200 while cranking and my timing is set. I do not have a TPS sensor installed, so I am looking at how to install the 240sx TPS on the stock throttle body right now.

So I am trying to figure out why my car won't start. In the MS2 documentation it states: "MS2-Extra can be triggered from the negative terminal of the coil, just like MS1-Extra , as long as MS-II is not being used to control the ignition timing. However, if you are controlling the ignition timing, then the tach signal must be fixed with respect to the crank position (not vary with the advance timing like the coil signal) " I have my timing set and a fixed advance. Will I not be able to vary my advance singe I am firing the coil directly? This shouldn't keep my car from running though.

Your car is cranking to around 400 rpms? I'm getting up to just over 200. Perhaps that could be a part of my problem, either in the reading from the dizzy or in my starter?

My plugs are all fouled out, black and smell of gasoline. I"m guessing my timing must still be off ?

So recently I pulled my fuel rail off, checked to see if all my injectors were firing and they weren't. Then I got them all to fire, (1 new injector, 1 new connector) now all are firing. I've set the timing, as close as I can get it. My battery tests ok. I checked my coil a few weeks back, it's ok. It will backfire and get some pops but she just won't start. There's new plugs just replaced today, added an octane booster and fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas? I'm going to start a new tune from scratch here soon, maybe I missed something.