310z
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Posts posted by 310z
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Absolutely none. The rear lip was ground away to the spot welds in a way that you do not notice it. The removed material starts at the top center and extends about a foot fading back to the original lip.
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See what thinking does for you. It points you in the right direction and frequently costs money. Finding a car as complete as possible makes a build easier. Look for as little rust as possible on a 240z. Bubbling paint just in front of the rear wheels and just behind the door is a typical spot that is over looked. The floor boards need to have everything pulled up and examined along with the rear hatch area and below the battery tray. Most parts can swap over and parts are available. You are correct going from a 280Z 2+2 to a 240Z will be the fastest, best and least expensive way to have a lighter car which equals better performance. I purchased my 240Z when I was 18. Do not destroy it and you will have something you can alter and change for many years as your income changes and Ideas of what the car should look like change. As I now turn 49 I have my car the way I want it. It went through a stock phase for a very short period of time. Then wheels and tires and suspension work. Then Motor work was needed and I had a 2400 cc build done with T ripple Webers and a 5 speed. The motor was never right but I drove it. Needing more education the car sat in my garage for years. Then I had more income and the internet was developed so searching and buying parts was easy. I started planning a build. The car was finished five years ago and it is great fun.
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After watching this page for so many years, I could not find that I had posted any photos of my car in it's normal stance with these wheels.
BBS Magnesium Race Wheel 16x8 -0 0ffset
Bridgestone 225-50-16
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I will have to second or third the David Vizard books. Pick one of his builds and follow it. I built a 383 following his build and put it in an old heavy ski boat. It is pretty impressive. Not having a matched set up that is proven to work well together tends to cost a lot more in the long run. Especially when you are not satisfied with the results and are constantly buying and changing parts.
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Il lol on that. roll bar is only in there for looks. Its chrome platted and not atchated in 1 spot. Still need to secure it its only been 5 years :S
Mine has a cross bar that is in the center of my mirror. I am use to it but if you connected yours you would still have good rearward visibility and protection. I like the Idea.
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Leon,
That sounds nice.
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Here's our set up
Rear
Apart back portion
Apart mid portionGreat car, nice work. Really like the roll bar set up still allowing good visibility.
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These are in my yard.
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The deer are in the shade, in my neighbors yard in a group.
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Those look real nice all of them. I would guess that takayuki is right.
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I questioned looking by mirror so when I dropped of my friend I had him look. He said they work. Then yesterday I thought I better re- check and see if maybe he meant tail light but all is working fine. Now the fact that I did not use the breaks when making a left hand turn, he may of thought the break lights were not working as I just down shifted to second. But the officer specifically said the left break light was out.
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If he would have just told the truth and said I wanted to check out your car I would have popped the hood and shown him the rest of the car. My assistant soccer coach is the chief of police. I have already told him to give the officer a razzing all in good fun.
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I was pulled over by the police at 12:30 on Saturday night while returning from Hot August Nights in Reno NV. The officer came up to my window and said are you guys returning from the race track? I said no, just returning from Reno. He said ya, but were you racing in Reno. This thing is really cool. I said no we were just at the show at Hot August Nights. He said Dude this thing is really cool. I pulled you over because you have a break light out. I said, oh I did not know that and you are the first to mention it. He told me how much he liked the car and said have a good day. As I put the breaks on prior to pulling back on the road I could see the bright shine of both my R&L break lights shining in the grill of his cruiser. I guess I will take that as a complement.
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The good news is that the market for our cars Asia/ Japaneses cars has taken off as predicted. The down turn in the economy caused the values to stalemate for a few years but the values have moved steadily up.Well sorted nice Zs nothing special, though professionally built are privately trading hands in the $20,000 to $30,000 range. The Holey Grail of Asian cars the Toyota GT 2000 was trading hands for $250,000 to $275,000 three years ago. I have a friend who purchased one at the top end of that value it was the first Asian car invited to the The Quail. A lesser Toyota GT 2000 sold this year at auction for $1.2 million. A nice increase in three years. The increase is following suite. Collectors are searching for really nice GTRs, Roadsters, and Z and if they are not finding what they want, the collectors are commissioning builds. This is good news for all of us Z owners.
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I will have to chime in on the shoe topic as my wife thinks I am a driving shoe geek and she is looking over my shoulder as I read this. Back in the 80s I wore Speery Top Siders. As I was thinking about rebuilding my Z I found a discontinued pair of Polo driving shoes at Sierra Trading Post. Ten years later they are my favorite but they are worn-out. So I have looked for a replacement. I purchased two pairs of Politi's, the 32 and Sebring. The 32 are non binding soft, you can walk around a bit in them but lack the feel for the petals. The Sebring's have a nostalgic low top look but are quite binding and have the same lack of feel. Which brings me to my latest purchase. A pair of Peter Miller Driving shoes that are much like my Polo's. I again found them at Sierra Trading post on line http://www.sierratradingpost.com/peter-millar-napoli-driving-moccasins-for-men~p~6047f/?filterString=mens-shoes~d~146%2FPeter-Millar~b~1691%2F&colorFamily=01
I received a deal and paid $89.00 They will take a little breaking in but they are going to work. Comfort is a main concern with driving shoes for me. I like the look of the high top shoe but I would be afraid of binding and ware about the ankle area in a high top.
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Those look real nice. Any idea what you are going to charge if you offer them to the public? Mine are covered by my carbon fiber air box but I know people that may be interested.
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richracing that will be fun when you are done.
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Nice looking car Sushi.
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Honestly T-Bone028, 40DCOEs are woefully inadaquate(truly not better than the SUs) for the motor you have, particularly with 33mm chokes. But, the flow on them is going to max out with even 34-36mm chokes anyway and still not be anywhere near as good as 45s with the same size chokes. It really needs a set of 45s with at least 36mm(really 38mm) chokes to make the power it's capable of making. Naturally you need to have the timing set up relatively close. Any of the stock distributors set to around 14 degrees at idle will give you 32-35 total mechanical advance. Which is going to be about right, with your cam, depending on your compression ratio.
With the cam you have, which I assume is a 270/280 not a 470/280, a 3.1 should make peak power around 6300RPM. But with 33mm chokes, it will peak at around 5600RPM. Some folks think that they will save some bottom end power by putting smaller chokes on their engine. But, all they are doing is shortening their operating range. With a cam of 270 duration, or more, it's not going to make good power below 2200RPM. So, if it's not going to make power until around 2200RPM and peak at 5600RPM, that's 3400RPM of really useful operating range. Or 4000RPM if you take it to 6000RPM or so. When you could have 2200RPM to 7200RPM= 5000RPM. In addition, it will make A LOT more power! The ONLY thing that will make any difference at all, for the low RPM range, is if you have the ovelap reduced on the cam which I recomend anyway.
If you don't want to go through the trouble of getting 45DCOE carbs, I would recomend getting a new cam that is made to peak around 5750-6000RPM. I think you will find that it makes the most power, for the least amount of money, with those carbs and the rest of your setup, and the engine will have a VERY strong low RPM range.
That is good information. I would say spot on. I did not realize he was installing 40s I thought he was discussing 45s. I had to go back to the top and re-read.
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Having good linkage is a key to keeping them in sink. The O-ring seals are there for anti-vibration and to keep heat from transferring from the head into the manifold, you need them. You can view my build thred to see how I got around the air cleaner issue. ITG makes a good option although is is pricey. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83577-the-build-of-a-240z-by-310z/
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http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83577-the-build-of-a-240z-by-310z/
This is the post I did a few years ago of my build. Post 16 has a photo of a Borla 45 degree slash tip with inter-cooler in 2.5 in. size. Borla also sels a 3 in. inter-cooled tip.
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Excellent choice.
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I found out that three of the four cars are from the same owner, the Honda, Toyota, and Nissan.
Advice on engine build
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
They are both full of information you need. The title to the book that has different motors with build specks is (How to build Chevy Small Blocks on a budget, By David Vizard ) I built a close copy of #8 except I used Dart Iron Eagles heads and did the port and bowel work myself. I used Scat 6 in. rods and a Scat steel crank .