240hoke

yeah i just printed a large Z on using paint on windows so i could use 4 pieces of paper, then i cut it out with a razor knife, alittle spray paint and wa la. If turned out to be pointless though because with the grill and airfilter you cant see anything

f i had know they were that expensive i would have sold mine, i picked mine up for $175. Heres some installed pics: http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/Pics.html

I have tried adjusting it all the way and it still vents at idle, i have even called the manufacturer and they said this is what it suppossed to do, it always vents unless under boost, but i still dont understand how you get boost with a big hole

DAWS that makes sense, and is probably what is happening, now that ive tightened it, i'll give it a try. Im new to turbos, and engines for that matter, just trying to learn all i can.

Okay i called the company up again to confirm that its supposed to be open during vaccum, and i got he same reply, they also said and i quote " all bovs are open during vaccum they only **** under boost" I still dont under stand how i can make boost, ive hooked it back up and im gonna go for a ride tomarrow to see if it is possibly closing when i put my foot down and just leaking at idle. Heres a pic of how ive got it hooked up: http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/BOV.html

Somebody helps me understand how this device works, I purchased a Vortec Maxflow BOV and it lets air out at idle and any time there is vaccum. If it stays halfway open until boost where it shuts, how do you build boost?

Aight i got he magnets on and it started up great, this time all the timing matches up and no kicking back on the starter. However even after playing with the Map and fuel values i cant get the lean to go away when i let my foot off the gas, downshifting, shifting, coasting ect.

Well i fell like a fool but heres my story. A week ago when i first got the car up and running i checked on the ingnition timing it seemed to be about 10 degree be wanted to jump around. Anyway it had symptoms of being really advanced but i thought it must be somthing else. So i programmed in scotties curve and it immeadiatly started backfiring i guess you would say. So from there i decided to take shane's advice and recheck the timing, this time the timing light showed a timing advance of 40-50 degrees! this was with the SDS programmer maxed out! Anyway, i took the pulley off and checked my magnets, turns out when i made my pattern for the magnets i measured it for the front of the pulley and then flipped it over to putt the magnets in, thus putting my magnet in the opposite order. Dont ask me how it ran and ran pretty good but it did. So its off to the workbench for me hopefully everything will work out now that i know what my problem is.

alright i putt all those values in the computer and got it running fairly well, there was alittle backfiring so it leads me to beleive that i need to adjust the magnet position some. I's still having hte start up problem though, it wants to fire back on the starter and makes a horrible noise somtimes, but once it get turned over its strats up, i need the 500rpm ignition value are 0-5 degreesto start easily. I have another interesting problem, when i let off the throttle or downshift, the engine goes incredibly lean, have any of yall expirienced this, im kinof curious as to what might be causeing it.

Humm i guess that would help. 74 260z l28et w/ stock internals SDS EM6-F T3 with hallman BC NPR I/C w/2.5" pipes & vortec BOV 240sx tb stock internals 2.5" SS downpipe & 3" exhaust

For those of you running stand alone engine managment, whats your ignition curve look like? Im setting up my Sds and wondering about what it should be like, the factory manual states that the idle should be 20 + or - 3 degreed advanced but that seem like a bunch, I have trouble getting it to start w/out kicking back on the starter at 10. Thanks

yeah im running the stock injectors, but thats why i got the sds, so i can upgrade later. Right now i just have enough money to do what ive done. more will come later. Hopefully in a few months or so i will go with the mecedes ones.

I tried posting this topic in two other areas, getting no help at all. Im getting ready to start up my car in the next week, and was wanting to see what other's SDS values looked like as a reference to use when tuning mine. Here's my setup: 74 260z 83 280zxt engine w/fresh rebuild SDS EM-4 6F T3 turbo 12 psi. 240sx TB NPR Intercooler So if anybody has there's on a spreed sheet or whatnot please email me. Austin_hoke@biketrials.com Thanks!

hello all, i'm about finished with my turbo swap into the 260 and soon it will be time to tune the sds. I was wondering if some people could post there sds maps and tell a little about their setup, i would like to compile a list and post them on my website for everyone to use. My setup is basically a stock 280zxt engine(only internal mod is comp 3-way valve job)with 240sx tb, 3"exhaust, NPR I/C, and SDS. I look forward to your input! Thanks, -Austin sorry about posting this in two places but i wanted to get to everyone

hello all, i'm about finished with my turbo swap into the 260 and soon it will be time to tune the sds. I was wondering if some people could post there sds maps and tell a little about their setup, i would like to compile a list and post them on my website for everyone to use. My setup is basically a stock 280zxt engine(only internal mod is comp 3-way valve job)with 240sx tb, 3"exhaust, NPR I/C, and SDS. I look forward to your input! Thanks, -Austin

thanks for the help guys

Hey guys, i've got my turbo engine in the 260 and hoping it will be ready to fire up in about two weeks. Ive been working on mounting my NPR IC and have been looking at scotieGNZ's page. I was wondering if anybody has installed the NPR without modifying the outlet side. If this is necesary, what is the purpose? Thanks

Heres some pics of my engine and bracket. SDS bracket pics

I installed the magnets my self, i thought it was pretty easy. I made a templet out of cardboard to match the pully exactly using calipers and a compass. Make sure you mark the TDC and your Hall sensor position, also scribe a circle the exact O.D. of the hub. From there you can make the rest of your measurements, cut out the center, slip it over the pulley and mark. Double check all your marks and drill. I used the stock pulley and there was a solid steel plate on the back about 4mm thick i dont know its purpose but thats where i put my magnets. I could only get them 3-3.5mm deep which left 3mm sticking out above the pulley. I called sds and they said it was fine just to make sure there is plenty of epoxy to hold them in. I took a few pics of my bracket but i hafta find the cable, hopefully i can post them for you today.

hey, i just finished making my bracket a couple of days ago turned out awesome and real easy. I decided to mount the bracket so it read the magnets from the back of the pulley. I located it directly opposite the timing gauge on two timing cover bolts that were the same height. I cut two brass sleeves to length to space out a 1/4" steel plate which i cut to size. After tapping holes for the sensor and painting it up it looks great and should work great i cant budge it, even by hitting it with a hammer. I see if i can get some pics up for you tonite.

Yes, Charlotte import truck. Have you had any bad experiences with them? Are the FE's as good as the NPR's? Thanks

Ive got a place with some mitsubishi FE(Look exactly like NPR trucks) intercoolers the deminsions are 15.5" x 13.5" x 2". Is it worth paying 100 bucks for one one of these or should i spend the $200 for an NPR. Thanks Austin

Im aiming to complete mine with 3.5 to 4k. That includes an engine rebuild and sds, but other than that pretty much stock. I want to have it in the car and running good for that price from there anything can happen

that dont be smart commment was ment for the zcar.com folk. i just copied my post from there. i like this site alot better, much more friendly and helpful.

Okay heres my problem. I am putting a 280zxt engine in my 74 260z and am wondering what to do with the engine managment. I made the mistake of purchasing an engine without the distributor, wiring harness and ecu thinking i was going to go w/ sds but now im rethinking the whole deal. so heres the two options i figure i have: 1.) Go ahead with the sds(or other managment system) to have a really good platform to build on as i moddify the engine in the months to come. This would take care of the distributor coil ect also since i would get the 6-f sustem. But since the SDS system will run me $1500 i will be forced to put the engine in pretty much stock as im trying to keep the whole deal under 4k. This would probaly be the most trouble free and give me the flexibility as i up the boost and add bigger injectors etc. 2.) Find an ecu, wireing harness, distributor, coil, etc, etc, and etc from the zx and swap it in, i figure i could get away with this for rather cheap giving me money to add stuff now like an intercooler, injectors, and better driveline. But i will then have to figure out how to get the stock stuff to run this(300zx ecu?), i dont know anything about the stock stuff so i would need some help in this area. Im open to any ideas since im just now building the engine. so far it has had a full rebuild(head: bead blasted, springs, valves, comp. 3 angle valve job. the block has new bearings, cylinders honed with new rings, water pump, oil pump and all seals.) any advice on what to do about engine management or any thing that would help me out period would be appriciated. Thanks Austin hoke