240hoke

Heres a few pics of mine, kinda dark but you get the point, i have some more if you would like them. http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt/Engine.html Btw who hosts free pictures, so i can put them on forums b/c geocities doesn't allow you to link to pictures?

Some of you may have forgotten about turbo inline sixs in first gen z's, which can be very fun with only a few mods. -Austin Hoke

Oh JAMIE T the engine has just been rebuilt and new set of valve springs were installed, still on the stock cam and rocker arms.

Hello, Thanks for the replies Scottie, I adjusted all the valves according to the haynes manual, they were pretty loose but still havin the same problem. I ran a compression check this afternooon and ran 152 across the board with 155 on #6. -Austin getting more confused everyday The penguins are starting to steal my sanity

I posted a while back about not being able to rev past around 5000 rpms. The problem occurs at idle and under load. Also at the time it stumbles the tach needle jumps all over the place. At idle i can notice a puff of white smoke come from the exhaust. SDS and ScottieGNZ have been very helpful but im still not having any luck making progress. This is what i have done so far: -Check magnet positioning and replaces all magnets -Check hall sensor alignment -Reroute all ignition wires and change spark plugs and wires -Revamped fuel curve -Turn knock sensor off over 3500 and cut down sensitivity I also want to add that i am getting no rpm error anywhere. Any advice or comments are welcome, i'm getting really frustrated now as it's been several months. Thanks in advance! -Austin Hoke 74 260zt http://www.geocities.com/datsun260zt

I posted a while back about not being able to rev past around 5000 rpms. The problem occurs at idle and under load. Also at the time it stumbles the tach needle jumps all over the place. At idle i can notice a puff of white smoke come from the exhaust. SDS and ScottieGNZ have been very helpful but im still not having any luck making progress. This is what i have done so far: -Check magnet positioning and replaces all magnets -Check hall sensor alignment -Reroute all ignition wires and change spark plugs and wires -Revamped fuel curve -Turn knock sensor off over 3500 and cut down sensitivity I also want to add that i am getting no rpm error anywhere. Any advice or comments are welcome, i'm getting really frustrated now as it's been several months. Thanks in advance! -Austin Hoke 74 260zt

No luck yet. I'll give my values another good look over and Im going to make a spreadsheet of my values and let you guys take a look maybe there sumthing i'm not seeing. Are the SVO injectors o-ring or barb? I'm thinking about going ahead and swapping the injectors even if they arn't the problem becuase i know that i will want to in the future, plus this will be one more thing i know isnt causing the problem. Right now i have the knock sensor at the lowest sinsitivity and it is only active below 2500 i believe, so it is as good a off. Thanks for the help -Austin

Hello, I have tried holding the hall sensor and i have turned the knock sensor off. Nothing has changed. Ive have given the ignition a good chck over and havent found any problems, so right now im turning toward the fuel system. Where can i get this done, should a local place be able to do it or is there a good place i can send them? Thanks again Austin

Hello, thanks for all the replies. The car is a 260z. Im using an MSD EFI pump, all new wiring, new fuel filter. Stock tank, with a surge tank in the engine compartment and a low pressure generic feeding that. The car behaves the exact same way in nuetral, if not worse. I will try holding the sensor to see if it is the vibrations. Using the stock injectors for now, but im only running 8 psi. Once i get this cleared up i plan on upgrading. Could bad injectors cause a problem like this/ i have no idea the condition of these. By the way i have a video of the sds programmer and the tach at 4500 if it might could tell you something i can email it to you. ALso can send pics of wiring etc. I really want to get this thing figured out. Thanks again -Austin

Yeah thats the odd thing about it, no rpm error. Right now since ive already gone through all the ignition stuff, thinking it might be fuel issues. Im not running high boost or anything though, right now its retty much stock.

It runs great all the way up to 4500. Very smooth in the lower rpms.

Im having alot of problems getting my SDS working right. THe car stumbles and wont rev past around 4500 rpms. At this time the tach also goes crazy flipping from redline to idle. Ive been talking with the sds guys, and were both out of ideas. I have double checked and replaced the magnets, everything seems to be fine. All wiring has been rerouted to the coils, and several types of spark plug wires have been used. Nothing has worked. Im convinced it is an ingnition problem beacuse of the tach and how it reacted on the dyno. Hoping it might be something simple though. Any ideas? Thanks in advance -Austin

Ok i see. Time for corky's book for me.

I dont know to much about turbos but i was wondering if you would produce more power running a t3/t4 turbo at just say 12 psi than you would running a t3 at 12 psi. Does the amount of a air flow contribute to the power like pressure?

Im swapping in and R200 4.11 differential and considering using the Phantom Grip LSD. Has anybody had experience with this product?

My car is giving me a real headache. It is a 1974 260z with a 280zxt egine and SDS engine managment (fuel and ign.). The car runs real good and strong all the way up to about 4500- 5000 rpms. At that point the car's tachometer goes crazy and the engine wont rev any farther. My hall sensor is close to the magnets and everything seems to be lined up correctly, i even have the knock sensor turned off. I am also not getting any type of error message on the programmer. The engine seems to be running fine, at 4500 rpms and 7 psi its putting out 181hp and 224 ft/lbs of torque. Any ideas on what could cause this? -Austin

My car is giving me a real headache. It is a 1974 260z with a 280zxt engine and SDS engine managment (fuel and ign.). The car runs real good and strong all the way up to about 4500- 5000 rpms. At that point the car's tachometer goes crazy and the engine wont rev any farther. My hall sensor is close to the magnets and everything seems to be lined up correctly, i even have the knock sensor turned off. I am also not getting any type of error message on the prgrammer. The engine seems to be running fine, at 4500 rpms and 7 psi its putting out 181hp and 224 ft/lbs of torque. Any ideas on what could cause this? -Austin

im curious as to how you could fit the large Npr in there, i havent seen a 280 but i sure couldn't get it to work on my 260z. I happy with the way mine turned and i wouldn't have done it any other way, but im just curious if it's just the 260z that won't work. Or am i just wrong?

Hey pete, Thanks for the advice. The tach works perfect now, I found it to be the red wire with a black stripe. Im stoked that i can use the factory tach and not have to modify it. Thanks again. -Austin

Ihave a 260z, do you know which wires im supposed to have hooked up? I dont really know anything about tachs

Wondering which car i need to get a tach from to run it with my em4-6f SDS system? I was planning on going aftermarket but the prices turned me off, what year did the Zcar's tach run off the single wire signal?

If there is a differences in pressures on different locations on the manifold it isn't going to be a big difference. I just got my boost gauge in and it reads exactly what the sds monitor reads, and they are in different locations . i have a Autometer sport comp boost gauge.

The guy in sport z mag just took a grinder to his manifold to get alittle more clearence and wrapped it with insulating wrap, might be sumthing to look into

Worked fine for me, i used windows media player. Nice job!

I would adivse you not to do it like scotties and in fact i dont think it will even work that way, it didnt in my 260z. HE has one end of the I/C lines up with the passengers side air duct hole, but on a car with the late 240z bumpers or larger crash bumpers there are shocks there which prevent you from moving it over that far. To solve the problem i cut two holes one either side of the radiator and ranthe pipes through there. You wont have to modify the i/C at at if you choose to do it this way. In addition i think it looks very good and allows you to center the I/C in the front of the car. Heres a few pics: http://www.geocities.com/Datsun260zt/Pics.html Email me if you have any questions Austin_hoke@biketrials.com