darkstarrocker

Made a faceplate for the head unit, using a Pioneer 4 channel amp to power stock sized Polk Audio front and rear speaker pairs on the front channel, with the rear channel bridged for a 10" sub in the spare tire well. Sounds great with no need to cut the car at all.

Frank, we're getting the 2.0 Efficient Dynamics Diesel for the first time this spring. Here in the states, his best option is a 1.9 with mTDI conversion.

I'm going to have some old BBS RS relipped, probably going to use a 5" inner barrel and a 4.5" outer lip. I have 15" faces, and I never thought about using double stepped 17" lips... That's a whole lot of shiney.

I just picked up some BBS RS for free in 4x114.3, but they are currently 15x6.5 et36. I know they're not going to fit as they stand, they currently have a backspace of about 5-5.5" or so. Best I can tell from my research is that I need no more than a 4.5" backspace to clear the stock suspension, but I've read that "perfect fit" on a 280zx is around 9-9.5" with a -19 offset. That's closer to a 4" backspace. I still don't know if I should keep them 15", or use stepped lips to make them 16" or 17". I'd you guys were going to order custom wheels, what would you get?

Here's a good thread. All the information you need is here.

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I'm not mistaken. You can use that wiring if you want to put a mechanical diesel pump on your 1.9tdi engine, converting into into an old-school, less efficient engine, albeit with more displacement. At that point you may as well just do a 1.6td engine. You said 1.9 T-D-I, and if you want modern tdi and modern fuel efficiency, you will have to swap over ALL the electronics that go with the engine. Do your research on what it takes to put a modern tdi into a vw. Many people do whole firewall swaps to accomodate the electric pedal cluster.

Only issue I see is electronics, the 1.9tdi is a pain in the ass to swap. You need the cluster, pedals, etc to be wired in. And, that transmission will suck balls unless you swap in a crazy tall rearend.

Only issue I see is electronics, the 1.9tdi is a pain in the ass to swap. You need the cluster, pedals, etc to be wired in. And, that transmission will suck balls unless you swap in a crazy tall rearend.

Checked the car out this morning. Removed that b*tch cotter pin, and found the wastegate was being held 1-2mm open. Tweaked the bracket a bit so the arm would line up with the wastegate being closed, and put a simpler cotter pin in. I get max boost at about 28-2900rpm. I forgot how fast this car was! Boost still comes on a little soft, so this weekend I'll be adding a poppet mbc and referencing the manifold.

What book would you recommend? I always thought Maximum Boost was more introductory than technical.

That's on the schedule for today. I'll post up with my findings.

Back to hole two, car runes perfect. Idles great, no stumbling, better power than ever. I am, however, still seeing full boost late, around 3500 rpm. My plan is to wire the wastegate shut and see what happens.

Update: Advanced the cam to to the 3rd hole, or 8 deg. Now I have a lumpy idle around 500rpms and low rpm stuttering. I'm planning on going back to hole 2, unless there is a solution to my problem within the stock efi. Should I have adjusted my ign timing as well? On a side note, why does everyone seem so scared of the timing chain? Took 1hr tops, and it was my first time.

Yeah... I'm starting to see that, but I'm going to work with what I have for now. The plus side of the cam is that I have awesome pull in 3rd on the highway. I'm not going to have any interference issues with 8deg cam advance, am I?

Especially with my auto trans, the sooner the better for peak torque.

Thanks for that. :thumbup: My plan was to move it one, drive it, then move it to the next if need be. I guess the one hole will do it, since he told me about 4deg.

I spoke with Schneider cams. The cam is best used when advanced to the 3rd mark or about 4degrees. Told me I'm not the first to have this "problem." Gonna get at it ASAP.

Let me try to edit this to how it should have been from the start: On an all-stock rebuild, would a stage II Schneider turbo cam (part # 17043 here: www.xenons30.com/cams.html#Schneider) move the point where I hit max boost from the stock 2500rpms, to about 3800rpms? I see boost start to build from around 2000rpms, which is normal, if I remember correctly. All I have to go off of is the last time I drove the car, which was before it was rebuilt, about 4 years ago. My father had the cam installed when my engine was rebuilt as a "surprise." Can't get mad, as he had good intentions, but could this cam be causing my issue? I've already verified ignition timing @ 20BTDC, and checked for exhaust, boost, and vacuum leaks. Every thing is stock, aside from the exhaust. I have a 2.5" from the downpipe back and no catalytic converter. So... Should I purchase an adjustable cam gear so I can get the most out of this cam? Or should I advance the cam timing a notch? And as a side note, M1 15w-50 is more resistant to shearing and has a higher ppm of ZDDP than almost any other off the shelf oil. Add 1oz of Lucas TB Zinc Plus per 5qt of oil and you'll be right around 14-1500ppm of ZDDP, which is ideal for the spring tension in our flat tappet engines. STP Blue works if it's all you can find on the shelf, but it'll only get you up to around SM levels. If I get cam wear it'll be because of an internal lubrication issue, not as a direct result of the oil I'm using.

So you think my cam timing is a notch or two off, not my ignition timing?

Sounds like you have more than one bad vacuum leak. Replace all the vac and fuel hoses under the hood. Check the afm boot for cracks. What is your timing set to?

Blackstone says I can go further than 5k... And Nissan filters are the best, AFAIK. My oil comes out clear as new every time. I start building boost around 2k as well, but full boost doesn't hit until 3800. I have no intercooler, it is a stock engine aside from the stage ii Schneider.

I've heard about the cam wear, I use a high ZDDP oil (M1 15W-50) and a bottle of STP Blue at every 5k change. 10k miles and no issues thus far. What timing were you running? I'm at stock 20BTDC.

I am referring to full boost. Boost starts to build early, but seems to hang until I hit full boost until about 3800. Really snaps my head back when it does though. Part of my problem is that I have no familiarity with my vehicle any more. Came back from Germany after a few years and it seems like everyone has diddled her. I'm still trying to put my finger on normal, largely relying on my memory from a few years back.

On an all-stock rebuild, would a stage II Schneider turbo cam (part # 17043 here: www.xenons30.com/cams.html#Schneider) move my boost threshold from the stock 2500rpms, to about 3800rpms? My father had the cam installed when my engine was rebuilt as a "surprise." Can't get mad, as he had good intentions, but could this cam be causing my issue? I've already verified timing, and checked for exhaust, boost, and vacuum leaks. Thanks!