TRD_240Z

If anyone has one laying around PM me.

The car is a 73 240z L24, working starter, and a new battery. So I recently relocated a few things in the engine and removed the starter. When I connected the starter back the car would not start. No clicking or turning over, only some of my guages would read and everything else including lights or electric fan would not. When I would attached positive battery wire to the other starter solenoid the starter would start up without the key. I can seem to get the car to function properly again. Could I be wiring the starter improperly? It doesn't seem like my hardware is malfunction if it's working on some settings.

I was afraid of the second part.. But I will test it tomorrow. Thanks

Hey guys, 73' 240z with an L28 dual webers, recent replacement of distributor, cables, battery with car running fine. After having a massive fuel leak from the tank I took my spare to get treated and sealed with all new sending unit and fuel lines in the rear with deleted vapor tank. Z is currently running on mechanical pump (still new). With the tank install and deleted vapor tank my idle is weak. Now I'm talking flutter at -500 with a nasty shake and not very responsive to throttle past 2800 rpms. Any suggestions?

Would it be possible to use Z32 key set instead for both doors and ignition.

Im wondering the same thing. My NA-T will be pushing around 4XXrwhp on t67 and the torque will have to be more with the R154. Will the misalignment with the differencial cause any serious problems?

I would strongly recommend an R series from the MK3 turbo. A W has a greater chance of blowing out if not driven properly over 300hp, but some have proven to otherwise. Although now a days the R series is becoming much more expensive than it used to be. Just the 1jz bellhousing is $300 alone.

This is great, but I will be looking towards your write-up for things i am still unsure of.