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  • Birthday 08/13/1947

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    Gold Coast Queensland Australia

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  1. You seem to be budgeting for what you don't need. If you are building a fast daily driver, you don't need a Le Mans/ Daytona setup. You don't need a cheap paint job, It looks like you have an expensive one already. (nice car) If there are no hiccups with fuel delivery to your existing injected engine, touch nothing, leave it alone . It works, don't fix it. Fit your Chevvy, then find out what you might need. (then try a Bosch motorsport pump if it's thirsty. Perhaps add a swirl pot to your tank.) $500-$1K for cold air ? Cold air will be at the front , inexpensive ducting/ alloy piping will get it from there to the throttle body for under $100. I've used ebay alloy radiators for 20 years, $200 tops, never had problems,(don't knock Chinese imports- you are probably reading this on a Chinese built computer) BUT- if you live in the desert, copper is a better conductor, heavier, but more efficient. That's a start. If you are not in the "Mines bigger than yours" game, you won't have to spend a fortune to build a WhooHoo.!! fun car
  2. Wasted in a Karman Ghia/bug, Subaru is quite a common swap into Porsches, 911/Boxster http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-engine-conversion-tech-forum/
  3. Here's a couple of pic's of sumps that might help. first 2 are differences between a 1UZ and 3UZ (1UZ on left in first picture.) other 2 are comparing a front and rear from a 1UZ 3UZ is a much better engine , 4.3 litre Vvti (You will only need the "1uz stronger rods" if you are planning an all out race car with Nurnburg ring level power- 600HP plus, supercharged, turbos etc. etc. ) The rods are swappable into the 3UZ if you are really pedantic , 3UZ extra capacity was bigger bore. if you are not building an all out race/track car,Stick with the 3UZ Earlier 4.0 engines are getting harder to get parts for as well, dizzy being one of them. . I put a 3UZ into a 928 Porsche, brilliant engine, Better engine than Porsche used , makes same power as the 928GTS- but reliable plus economical, and don't have to talk to Mr. Porsche for parts. (Plan was to put one into a 280ZX , lost interest) The ECU you mention that was modified by "someone" in Russia, was probably done by George in Moscow, A wiring Genius, you can find posts by him on toymods site. an Australian Toyota modification site, search George 3UZ you will find him, ( I can't seem to post a link here)He is one of 3 people that really do know what they are doing with 1-3UZ ECU's. One here in Australia, (Sideshow,alias Dumbass on the Toymods site) and another guy in New Zealand George can also be found on LEXTREME a Toyota/Lexus V8 engine swap/modification site, Heaps of information there if you are planning a UZ conversion, site has been quiet for a few years, but all the information is there.
  4. Rear sumps are really a mid sump(they don't go that far back) The one on the right in the pic is from a 3UZ I put into a 928, on the left is early 1990's 1UZ (soarer? ls400?) I picked up to experiment with. as you probably already know , 1UZ, 3UZ sumps are interchangeable,
  5. Hi Panic, You obviously know the A341 backwards, I wonder if you can help me out with an A650E? I have one installed in a Porsche 928 with a 3UZ transplant, ( transaxle replaced with conventional Borge Warner LSD, the A650E where it's supposed to be, behind the engine) I have zero clearance for the dip stick, and due to this transmission holding so much fluid in the converter, it is guess work trying to work out if the fluid level is correct. (at the moment, only way is drop gearbox, drain converter, refill to factory spec. -) I have room at the side in the tunnel so I thought maybe drill and tap a fluid fill point on the side of the case at level height. Problem, Don't know at what height to drill through. Any advise? pic of A650E attached Thanks Russ
  6. It might pay to uprate the fuel pump, from memory original factory ones are only 3bar (45 psi) I love your spelling mistake, I feel the same way. (purpose of the car is just cursing)
  7. ^^^ smooth running could be the key. Solid, as in, aluminium -or solid, as in, not silicone filled? I've used the solid (rubber) v12 Jaguar mounts on; a 260Z with 1J turbo, 928 porsche with 3uz V8 300zx TT- factory engine, (but modified the mounts due to ridiculous cost of factory mounts filled with silicone gloop) two TR8s (3.5 litre and 4.6) Never experienced anything even resembling a slight ( out of place) vibration
  8. these look different, can't seem to post links but if you put "Supra engine mounts Silver project" into ebay, should bring them up Solid, urethane,(but not cheap.)
  9. I was running a 3.3/1 and it was a rocket off the line with the auto,(and you can either use the sports shift or just manually shift it) install the auto with whatever diff you have now and test it before you start making modifications, you could be surprised. If you don't like it, it is no drama swapping a diff later. Make sure you immobilise "snow mode" switch
  10. That's the one, From memory, it is a late version of an R154 built by Aisin Japan supplied to GM, with all the bugs taken out. I think that all you need is a 1JZ bell housing . When I fitted The R154, it only needed a small area of the tunnel pushed out to fit, think I put a jack in there and gave it a couple of cranks, didn't need much. I had replaced all the shift bushings prior, I just didn't like it, Toyota had a better shifting box with the W58, but it might not have handled the power. I wonder what will be next now we are up to 8 speeds? hardly worth bothering changing gears yourself when the ECU has that much choice I've hit that age when I'm happy to let the car figure it out.
  11. You probably saw it on ZGarage site (good site, but now deceased) can't remember being on viczcar forum , that's a site mainly populated by people on quests to find things like "a genuine Datsun washer to go behind the bolt that holds the number plate on" Pedant central. Definitely NOT Toyota transplant territory. The auto worked for me, smooth shifts when on boost, the R154 is a heavy shift, lost boost changing, jerky. thought it was just mine which had had a complete re-build but I found it the same in a Chaser I took for a run. I recall that there was a better 5 speed manual that bolted straight up to a 1J /2J, but never followed it up as it was from a US built car that was not available down here. I'll see if I still have it on an old computer drive. Could be of interest to you people Stateside. The reason I sold the Z was the R154, didn't have the time or space to convert it back- plus I'd sold the auto box . I have just bought another Z, a beautiful 1 owner 280zx 2 seater, showroom condition, to play with. Rare car in Australia, Nissan Australia only marketed the butt ugly 2+2 . I'm undecided as to what it needs to make it go, a 1J, 3UZ or an LS engine,but whatever I go with will be an Auto. Automatics have come a long way since the 2 speed Chev Impalas my dad used to own. Russ
  12. Not a Z but it ended up looking like this. Sushi porker. It has Datsun Z content, the cross engine brace started life as a 260Z front swaybar. Tunnel rebuilt to take the 5 speed auto (at the front) transaxle gone replaced with 3.08 Borg Warner LSD -Weisack rear suspension retained, Porsche Cayenne rotors front, Porsche 968 (front) brakes fitted on the back. Mk4 Supra Master cylinder and servo, Alloy radiator. 1380 Kg 3036lb (53% front, 47% rear) It really upsets Porsche people, Lighter, faster, reliable, corners like a rat, plus- more economical, 12000 kilometers so far, and the only outlay has been for fuel.
  13. Top of page.^^^ sticky -installation for Dummies. I'm fairly sure the 4 speed auto on a 1J Vvti is the same as the ones used in 2J. it fitted without any issues. (you will need to remove the original gearbox mounting "ears" from both sides of the tunnel.-see pic's) passed the "finger clearance" all around test. no contact with the tunnel when booted. (I loved the auto- hated the Ri54-a giant step backwards IMHO)
  14. As long as you have a "finger" clearance, you wont have contact problems.
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