wesmc

DCOE style SK carbs...make a "fluttering" noise on throttle opening, almost a chirp in sequence with the intake stroke. Also, could be a little smoother off idle. I am usually tunning downdrafts, first time doing sidedrafts. Car starts easily and runs very strong otherwise. Carbs sync'd well and good AFR showing on the LM1 when holding throttle steady.

In my (71 240) car I had to "clearance" the inboard side of the booster just slightly. Not much. Used a BFH.

I did, and I did it in stages. I liked the 15/16 MC but didn't feel any improvement with the booster. Changed the drums to discs last. On my street car (bone stock '71) fresh, stock, well adjusted brakes are perfect.

Lol...thanks for rubbin it in Bloz Up

I can't seem to make them work. I go to cut and past a URL and nothing happens. Am I doing it wrong?

Same issue...never could "like" a post.

Thanks guys...I had seen the drilled T/C bushes but didn't know why that was done. I should have lurked more and had that issue on my radar.

btw- my tension arms did not look bad but with my 15x10 wheels they flexed enough to wrinkle a fender. The wheel was able to shift over an inch in the wheel arch with all the old, worn out rubber stuff in there.

Thanks guys.....Energy it is. Can't wait to start pressing the new stuff together. I'll have a new (to me) CLSD, new rear discs, and new bushings. She should track like a totally different car.

They are on ebay for as low as one dollar right now.

Time for every bushing I can find to be replaced. Big kits on fleabay for under 200 bucks. Any recommendations on brands or another source?

Thanks...just ordered. Looking forward to not having to modulate so much.

I just put the huge 2+2 280z booster in my car and went out to the track, made exactly zero difference in braking, as mentioned above. IMHO the booster swap is worthless. I then put the 15/16" MC on the car because I am moving to rear disc. Even on stock calipers and pads braking was improved. I expected a big difference in pedal travel but that didn't happen. I wanted go through each step one at a time to see where the big differences were. I have a set of brackets being made up to place 280zx calipers on the rear like guys used to sell here. I like the idea of keeping the park brake (I also have a street 240 these are going on) and keeping the car "all Z." If anyone is interested pm me.

Mine is now a dedicated track car, I have a 3.9 WRX STI CLSD ready to drop in but I'm wondering if it is better to use the Subie diff or weld the open diff? I have never driven a car with a welded diff but more than one guy has said that on a track car a welded diff is preferable. So welded vs CLSD?