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HaxMcJax

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    www.lostgameslv.com

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    So Cal

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  1. The car is pretty much stock but it was clean and running. Only mods were the toyota calipers and power windows and locks. I even had the ac working. I already filed a claim prior to my first post. They already picked up the car to take to an adjuster and inspect it. I'm just waiting for the insurance company to make a decision. I know the motor can definitely be rebuilt and water did get inside but never reached the dash or center console. Basically I don't think its a total loss. So if the insurance wants to total the car, can I disagree with them and get the car back? Or if the car damage is fixable to them, will they repair it and will it still have a clean title?
  2. So my 76 280z recently got caught up in a thunder storm and has some flood damage. This happened in Las Vegas, NV while I was driving home. In short, there was so much rain I could barely see, and I drove into an intersection that was flooded. The car basically sucked in water and hydrolocked when crossing an intersection with about 3 ft deep of water. Interior was flooded as well. I had to wade to higher ground and leave the car behind until the water dissipated from the area before I got it towed home. I have Progressive insurance, and I have comprehensive coverage that covers flood damage with a $1000 deductible. I filed a claim with them and they are most likely going to total the car and give me a check for whatever the car is worth. Here's the deal: I don't want the car to become salvaged. Ideally, I want to keep the car without a salvage title, and get enough to restore it to (at least) a comparable condition to before it was flooded. What should I do?
  3. Ok I'll try using the vise grips. Just to be clear I should adjust the push rod inwards? Since my brakes are locking that means the push rod is too far out. Also is it ok to bring the push rod out a little to get a better grip with the vise grips? I don't think my vise grips will fit into the small hole where the push rod is...
  4. Ok new problem... After driving around I noticed the brake pedal would only need to be pressed a little for the brakes to work. There was very little brake pedal travel before it got stiff. Then the brakes started to lock up. At first it felt like the ebrake was up then eventually the car would not budge. I had to bleed the bmc to get home. Based off these brake symptoms I'm assuming the push rod needed to be adjusted. So I tried adjusting it but couldnt get a good grip with pliers... Any suggestions on how to adjust the pushrod?
  5. Yea just had to bleed everything again. Figured there was still air in the lines.
  6. I have a 76 s30 280z with the toyota 4 piston calipers installed up front and stock drums in the rear. I just installed a used 81 s130 280zx brake master cylinder and booster. Both bmc and booster were taken off a junkyard 280zx. The install was pretty easy and straight forward. Just had to take off the spacer and flip the booster and everything bolted up fine. I have bled the brakes in the proper order but there is a problem. The brakes don't work. Basically with the car off the brake pedal builds no pressure. The pedal is spongey about 3/4 of the way down and then super loose at the last 1/4 When the car is on there is absolutely no pressure or resistance or anything. The pedal just goes straight down to the floor with no effort. The brakes don't even work a little. From what I can tell there are no leaks. I read it might me be a push rod issue or brake pedal linkage? Any other suggestion on what the problem might be?
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