Dat260
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Posts posted by Dat260
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I have the same problem. check your wiper/lights switch. I took it apart and found loose/corroded wires. This tutorial was helpful too.
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I bumped in on this thread through search because I'am looking to find a solution to my jumping tach. I have a couple of instalation diagrams for your petroniks and msd box that I will post. In the mean time post 11 mentions resistor of 4.0 or 5.5 ohm to be installed. I installed a 2.2ohm resistor at the passenger side under the dash and its still not working. (260Z/74)
My question is; My ignition is stock and if I install a 4.0 or 5.5ohms resistor on my factory wire harness would it cause any harm?
Here are the pic for you guys with petroniks and msd box;
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I have the consol if interested. $100 plus shiping.
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Hi,
I have what you are looking for. My piston came from Arizonazcar which are no longer available but they are 86mm flat top with different compression to fit 240 rods. This combo will give you zero deck height and. Pistons comes with rings and pins. Let me know.
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No I did not make this, but it should not be too difficult to make. Just follow the same principle. To me it looks like a front strut bar modified to fit the t/c cup. The owner of this car also did the same to the rear following the same principle.
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How about this setup?
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Trying to fix my jumping tach issue, I searched and found a couple of approaches.
- replaced the resistor situated in the passenger foot well, no go
- dismantled the tach, cleaned it and slightly heat up the soldering connections, no go.
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I have the same problem with a jumping tach. I change the resistor in the passanger foot well like suggested above and still have the same problem. Iam thinking maybe the coil since it seems its the original one but the car runs fine so I do not know what else to do. My car is an early 260Z 5/74.
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My spacing looks about the same....
Iam doing the same install and I was wondering if debris can get in there? Is there a seal that closes this gap?
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I purchased my aluminum drive shaft assembly from Shaftmasters (313.383.6347) for $378. It came with the correct yokes on both ends. Just tell them what transmission and differential you have and what the measurement is from the transmission output seal to the differential flange is and they will build you a complete custom drive shaft for your car.
Thank you
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Don't change your post, I need glasses, I hate to admited.
Thats what I wanted to reffer in my question.
Localy lq9 are a dime a dozen but t56 are rare and very expensive. But, Z33 trannys are easily found and I wanted to know how did you mate the two? Did you by an adapter or you made one and is the Z33 tranny strong enough for a 400hp lq9?
Sorry for the confusion,
Cheers,
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Your "parts list" mentioned it. Thank you for clarifying.
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Hi,
How was your driveshaft connected to the r230?
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What adapter are you using for the r33 tranny to lq9 motor?
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Awsome build,Bravo!
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You have a short obviously, check your bulbs and bulb sockets. My culprit was the front left blinker, the socket was rusted and created a short. I was driving for awhile without the lense so it got corroded.
cheers,
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The kit is called zvette. Came out in the 80's I think.
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Very nice job, Thank you for sharing.
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I would be interested as well for mounts with T56.
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New wheels finally came in.
15x9.5 -25 and 15x10.5 -32 Work Equip 03
205/50/15 and 225/50/15
very nice!
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If you come down to Montreal, maybe I have something for you. Let me know when you are in town, I;ll show you a nice project.
Cheers,
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Hi and welcome.
What is your budget?
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It would depends on how long you have this knock problem. In any case its wise to check everything. Measure your cylinder for roundness, your connecting rod for warpage and your crank journal for out of round. Get yourself some precision measuring tools. If you have the "how to built an l6" from frank hosowitz (sp?) it shows you how to check for all this.
Good luck!
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Talk to Grumpy, he's the wizzard!
Weber jets??All who live for their triples please read this
in Nissan L6 Forum
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