palmer765s

ok I figured some one on here has ran into this before and knows how to fix it (its bugging the crap out of me) my driver side door after I shut it it still wiggles a bit (about a 1/8-1/4 of an inch) and is super annoying how do I get it to shut and not have play ? is there a little mod out there to fix it or a bushing or piece of rubber or some thing lol

well guys I just went up to my buddies at a local shop and bullshitted around for a bit and finaly decided im going Mega Squirt just to completely ditch this crappy EFI system and have things to go smoothly and also I plan on going turbo in the future so it makes more sense to me. have been throwing around this decision in my head for a while now and all this just secured it and the deal im getting to have it made and installed (MS1 build your own board) I cant pass it up

OK I so I did a test of it and it and I disconnected the hose to the air reg (opposite side of the sensor sensor plug) and at idle with the line off without being plugged it ran better ( smoother less rich ect.) But once I put my thumb over the reg it ran how it did before and there was suction I tried looking inside of it but all I saw was black even with a flashlight

The air regulator is located on top of the intake manifold and has one line that comes out of a nipple on the throttle body and runs to the air regulator and from there runs back into the throttle body

It doesn't have any fittings the original on has one nipple on it for the breather on the valve cover that's it

I fixed the air boot by using the stock one that goes from the AFM to the air cleaner and its a good seal and I tested it when it was cold

OK so as one of the tests on the FSM is while the car is running get players and clamp the vac hose going to and from the air regulator and pinch it closed if idle goes down and stumbles then its working. I did it and nothing happened what so ever so could this be the reason of all my problems ? Well at least some of them ? Could the air regulator actually cause it to run the way it is ?

some resistance but mainly continuity I did find a link from google back to here explaining how to adjust the TPS sensor if you think its jumping from idle to WOT im going to try and get it off pop it open and see how close the pins are to eachother and see if moving them out a little bit helps or not if now im just going to try throwing a new TPS and Air Regulator at it and hope it fixes it

Well I already ran through the entire pin out tests and the only 3 things that didn't check out was test #3 for Air regulator circuit, test #1 air regulator and fuel pump, test #1 fuel pump relay circuit every thing else came back perfect so is it possible that the air regulator could be causing my problems ? Oh and I did mess with the tps sensor (running unplugged and plugged) and if seems to respond better at idle and throttle with it unplugged. Could this mean its bad even if the pinout tests were fine ? Twisted the a/f screw on the AFM out a lot (was about a 1/4 inch in and now the richness have gone down alot but its still smoking pretty decently. Must say thank you all for getting me thus far

alright so im guessing that taking the screw out would make it lean and in would richen it ? or do I have it backwards ?

Fornafm adjustment you mean the big flat head screw on the bottom side of it ? Then years I messed with it a bit. The fpr is correct and hose seems to be fine I'm going to have to check the tips hopefully that is all it is

OK so now that I got a good seal from the AFM to the throttle body I have to use the throttle to start and it doesn't run without me revving it and its insainly rich (huge clouds of smoke) the AFM is brand new guy I'm wondering if the tps could be causing this ?

In did replace the filter too forgot to mention that but I was messing with the flap and it does actualy rev the motor but I don't have the right kind of boot on it to have a good seal to the throttle body so I'm thinking that's my problem going to see if I can't get a good seal from some advance auto intake stuff and hopefully get my car going

OK so I just threw on of the correct ECU's in and it idles fine but it still doesn't respond to any type of throttle (dies at any touch of the throttle and come back once I let go

Well my tach doesn't work so just from hearing it (open header) best guess is little higher then idle,just above 1k then starts picking up rpms and keeps rising till I kill it I think about the farthest its gone is about 4.5-5k before I shut it down

spark plugs wires cap rotor button all brand new and properly gapped along with new ignitor cap. and right now I have the 82 ecu in it just so I can move it some what and its only idling fine for a few seconds then increases in rpm and dies at any throttle response.

im pretty sure that you can get a aftermarket inline walbro pump for around 200

ok guys iv tried this on the s30 chassis page didn't really get any helpful answers so I thought id throw it up on this page. well it all started out when I bought the car, it sat for 6 years until I came along. owner said low miles and ran when parked so I went to check it out. when I got there he had told me he had it running for it to warm up ( it was mid January at the time), he went into the house for a min came back out to it and it was off. started it back up and idles for a few seconds then dies and does not respond to throttle. so I thought I was just some thing with the fuel system replaced fpr, fuel pump, afm, inline baffle (right after the pump). and still have nothing to show, so I took it to a very experienced garage and they ran thought the FSM trouble shoot on it and told me it was the ECM so I order a reman replacement and didn't fix any thing. one day out cruising back roads I stumble across a 82 280zx rotted to the ground talked to the owner and convinced him to sell me the ecu. got it went home put it in and now it actualy stays idling but still dosent respond to any type of throttle and after about 10 seconds the rpm's start to increase by its self and continue to do so until I kill the motor. please some one tell me they know what would fix it, but I did figure out on both the correct ecu's (a11-600) I can keep the motor running on starting fluid and it will respond to throttle but once your stop spraying it dies. HELP ! please and thank you !

Does any one have a link to the build thread of this partictuar 240Z ? it was recently featured in Modified Mag and im in love with the color! would really love to learn more about it. and how it came to be this beautiful! thanks

Oh and not to mention the cost difference of making power Ka will make 400hp at the wheels with 1500-2k the same amount of power out of a l28 well you already know that its way more then that. Oh and not to mention that the heads flow 10x better then the L is just another reason. Open you minds people if it wasent for motor swaps out of the ordanary the would he no variety between cars

What no one has ever looked up what this swap turns the car into ? Almost perfect 50/50 weight distribution not to mention the Ka weighs a shit ton less then the l28. If a sensor or any thing goes bad j can buy one not wait a month for a Nissan direct order. Oh and they actualy sell turbo manifolds for it instead of finding some one else's handmedowns. Not to mention the aftermarket susport Behring the Ka is amazing and you can find every thing you need for them easily not spend days trying to find one part. god you guys are so ******* close minded I'm glad I went to Ratsun

Hey guys I was wondering what speedo + tach to get for my conversion considering I know the stock ones won't work with my swap and I still want to keep that factory look. I know its going to be a pain to wire in but I'm just looking for one that riots directly in where the factory is. Any links or sites ? Thanks !

Personally my favorite out of the 3 I have (Kobalt, Harbor Freight, And my buddies 2 year old 600 dollar helmet) all auto dark and hands down I love the Kobalt its only $100 and works amazing and they just came out with a new one that's just a little more sensitive with the controlls ( flash delay sensitivity ect.) I have the blue Kobalt and I think the new one is black I'm just kind of a Kobalt nut, all my hand tools are kobalt even my carpentry tools for work are Kobalt

Well I plan on using the mckenny Ka swap kit with a priced tougher ka24e (single can) for the swap basically because I had a 89 240sx with the single cam in it and if gotten so well at working on it ( guy I bought it off of was a retard) that I could have it from running to just the block in the bay in 20 mins damn near with my eyes closed and when turboed it makes the same power as the de and it shares the same designs as the l series front case wise dizzy running off the oil pump shaft son on so fourth

Is there any write up to this swap as in the wiring because I'm doing a sohc Ka swap in my 280z and am just kinda wondering about how I'm going to have to wire every thing up (first swap iv done) and eventually plan on going turbo with it